Bigg_billy
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- February 16, 2006
- Messages
- 195
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- Westford Mass
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2000 Explorer XLS 4L AT
Well here is my list of steps taken to get to the 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary. I know a few guys were waiting to see how it worked out. The 2-3 flare is gone and reverse is as it should be. I did not do the Sonnax Boost valve or three of the mods in the Superior kit, “Pressure riser” splice, operating temperature mod, and the “hard to get out plug” coast clutch mod. Upon taking mine down, I found gaskets blown out in several locations and bolts that had “lost their torque.”
1. Before starting be sure you have all your parts in-house and have read the appropriate diary to be sure you have the “right stuff” to begin the job. Be sure you have the Mercon V to refill with, by the time I was done it took 7 qts. to refill.
2. Disconnect your positive battery terminal and turn your headlights on for an hour, then off. This will reset your computer to factory specs so it can “relearn” your rebuilt characteristics.
3. Set up a clean area for cleaning parts and to spread all your parts out. (unless the Mrs. will let you use the dining room table) Mine did, it’s her XLS.
a. Have plenty of clean rags, card board to make a bolt layout template.
b. Vaseline for re-assembly, and anti-seize dressing for bolts.
c. Buy or borrow an inch/pound torque wrench.
4. Jack up the vehicle, I raised mine so the bottom of the tranny was 2 feet off the Garage floor.
a. Naturally use jack stands to hold her up.
5. Remove the heat shield, one 10mm nut that’s hard to get at (use a 10mm deep socket and a long skinny arm) and then the slip off the clip-ons where it fastens to the pan. Push the shield up and out of the way. I didn’t bother fishing it out.
6. Lay out some 4 mil plastic under the work area (I like to leave no trace on my garage floor) and line up your drain tray to catch your tranny fluid, hopefully bigger in size than the tranny pan. I have a 50 gallon drum bottom about 6” high.
a. I put mine on a dolly and raised it as high as possible to avoid a tranny fluid shower.
b. Unbolt your pan letting it dip to a corner to get as much fluid out as possible, and then remove the last bolts and let it settle into your tray. Let it drip…
c. Now is a good time, while you have your fluid change gear handy to drain your transfer case as well.
7. Next disconnect the wiring clips from the solenoids, (6 on 5R55E) label if you think you need to.
a. Carefully lower the little plastic “loom” which carries the wires across the bottom of the VB.
8. Unbolt the detent spring which puts pressure on the manual valve.
9. Unbolt (4) the reverse servo plate and lower the servo, remove the gasket if it comes easy.
10. Next loosen and remove the 23 gray 10mm bolts which hold the VB to the tranny. Be sure not to remove the two shiny bolts (marked in the manual - often golden in color) which hold the solenoid brackets in place.
a. Back them all out about ¼” and let her drip.
b. Make a cardboard template to put these bolts in as you take them off, there are 4 or 5 different sizes. I copied and enlarged the torque sequence page, taped it to a piece of cardboard, and poked holes through to slide the bolts into. (ROE recommendation and a good one)
c. I left the middle bolt in until last and then gently lowered the unit taking care to clear the wire harness and disengage the manual valve. (Gear shift)
c(i). Observe how this comes apart, so on reassembly you remember to engage it properly, “or you ain’t going anywhere.”
d. Now move your drain pan back under your tranny, what’s left will drip forever, and a LOT of fluid still will drip out.
e. Turn you VB every which way to get as much fluid out as possible.
f. Place your VB on top of some rags in a shallow cardboard box, and your off.
11. Now you can proceed through which ever of the diaries are correct for your case.
a. Work cleanly and carefully, AND DO NOT TURN THE VB UPSIDE DOWN WITHOUT THE PLATE IN PLACE. (or until you think you can figure out where all the balls and whistles go)
a(i). Parts for my 2000 XLS 4L OHV 4WD: (yours may vary depending on engine and year - different separator plate and gaskets for SOHC vs. OHV - see Diary page 1):
1.Purchased from: FORDPARTSNETWORK.COM
a. EPC – XL2Z-7G383-AA @ = $112 (This part is the same for all)
b. SOL BRACKET – XL2Z-7L491-AA = $6 (same for all)
c. FORD SEP PLATE – 1L5Z-7Z490-GA = $14
d. FORD TSB KIT – 3L5Z-7M203-JA = $14 (same for all)
2. Pruchased from: BULKPARTS.COM
a. SUPERIOR SHIFT CORRECTION KIT – S56165H = $36 (same for all)
b. FILTER - 56010G = $11 (Same for all 4X4)
c. GASKET - 56300EF = $2 (Same for all)
12. Reassembly is the opposite of the above.
a. Torque sequence for the VB bolts is in the Diaries OR Haynes Manual. I used anti-seize compound on the drain pan bolts (18 @ 13mm) and the heat shield nut (10mm). ( you never know when you’re going back in)
a(i). Torque the VB in at least four steps, drain pan three.
b. I also put a drain plug in the drain pan as was recommended. ( I think I’ll change my fluid a lot more often now)
c. Now you can wipe up the garage floor, because you know you didn’t put the plastic down!
As mechanic jobs go it was an easy one, about 4 or 5 hours work taking your time. It would be good to do steps 1-10 at night and let it drain and drip all night. Then you can rebuild the VB and start back in without getting “rained on.” Personally I recommend reading the Diaries through plenty of times, there’s a wealth of information there. My special thanks to Glacier, ROE, BrooklynBay, 2001ExpSport, Wrench, and others who responded to me quickly and supplied instant knowledge, answered (probably foolish) questions, and generally inspired confidence to “do the job yourself.” A job completed for around $200 as opposed to the tranny shop quote of $1,600 for a “rebuilt tranny.” Maybe for the $1,400 saved, you can talk the Mrs. into buying that tool you’ve been dreaming of. In my case she’d rather take it out in Zombies at the local Chinese joint.
Good Luck,
Bill
1. Before starting be sure you have all your parts in-house and have read the appropriate diary to be sure you have the “right stuff” to begin the job. Be sure you have the Mercon V to refill with, by the time I was done it took 7 qts. to refill.
2. Disconnect your positive battery terminal and turn your headlights on for an hour, then off. This will reset your computer to factory specs so it can “relearn” your rebuilt characteristics.
3. Set up a clean area for cleaning parts and to spread all your parts out. (unless the Mrs. will let you use the dining room table) Mine did, it’s her XLS.
a. Have plenty of clean rags, card board to make a bolt layout template.
b. Vaseline for re-assembly, and anti-seize dressing for bolts.
c. Buy or borrow an inch/pound torque wrench.
4. Jack up the vehicle, I raised mine so the bottom of the tranny was 2 feet off the Garage floor.
a. Naturally use jack stands to hold her up.
5. Remove the heat shield, one 10mm nut that’s hard to get at (use a 10mm deep socket and a long skinny arm) and then the slip off the clip-ons where it fastens to the pan. Push the shield up and out of the way. I didn’t bother fishing it out.
6. Lay out some 4 mil plastic under the work area (I like to leave no trace on my garage floor) and line up your drain tray to catch your tranny fluid, hopefully bigger in size than the tranny pan. I have a 50 gallon drum bottom about 6” high.
a. I put mine on a dolly and raised it as high as possible to avoid a tranny fluid shower.
b. Unbolt your pan letting it dip to a corner to get as much fluid out as possible, and then remove the last bolts and let it settle into your tray. Let it drip…
c. Now is a good time, while you have your fluid change gear handy to drain your transfer case as well.
7. Next disconnect the wiring clips from the solenoids, (6 on 5R55E) label if you think you need to.
a. Carefully lower the little plastic “loom” which carries the wires across the bottom of the VB.
8. Unbolt the detent spring which puts pressure on the manual valve.
9. Unbolt (4) the reverse servo plate and lower the servo, remove the gasket if it comes easy.
10. Next loosen and remove the 23 gray 10mm bolts which hold the VB to the tranny. Be sure not to remove the two shiny bolts (marked in the manual - often golden in color) which hold the solenoid brackets in place.
a. Back them all out about ¼” and let her drip.
b. Make a cardboard template to put these bolts in as you take them off, there are 4 or 5 different sizes. I copied and enlarged the torque sequence page, taped it to a piece of cardboard, and poked holes through to slide the bolts into. (ROE recommendation and a good one)
c. I left the middle bolt in until last and then gently lowered the unit taking care to clear the wire harness and disengage the manual valve. (Gear shift)
c(i). Observe how this comes apart, so on reassembly you remember to engage it properly, “or you ain’t going anywhere.”
d. Now move your drain pan back under your tranny, what’s left will drip forever, and a LOT of fluid still will drip out.
e. Turn you VB every which way to get as much fluid out as possible.
f. Place your VB on top of some rags in a shallow cardboard box, and your off.
11. Now you can proceed through which ever of the diaries are correct for your case.
a. Work cleanly and carefully, AND DO NOT TURN THE VB UPSIDE DOWN WITHOUT THE PLATE IN PLACE. (or until you think you can figure out where all the balls and whistles go)
a(i). Parts for my 2000 XLS 4L OHV 4WD: (yours may vary depending on engine and year - different separator plate and gaskets for SOHC vs. OHV - see Diary page 1):
1.Purchased from: FORDPARTSNETWORK.COM
a. EPC – XL2Z-7G383-AA @ = $112 (This part is the same for all)
b. SOL BRACKET – XL2Z-7L491-AA = $6 (same for all)
c. FORD SEP PLATE – 1L5Z-7Z490-GA = $14
d. FORD TSB KIT – 3L5Z-7M203-JA = $14 (same for all)
2. Pruchased from: BULKPARTS.COM
a. SUPERIOR SHIFT CORRECTION KIT – S56165H = $36 (same for all)
b. FILTER - 56010G = $11 (Same for all 4X4)
c. GASKET - 56300EF = $2 (Same for all)
12. Reassembly is the opposite of the above.
a. Torque sequence for the VB bolts is in the Diaries OR Haynes Manual. I used anti-seize compound on the drain pan bolts (18 @ 13mm) and the heat shield nut (10mm). ( you never know when you’re going back in)
a(i). Torque the VB in at least four steps, drain pan three.
b. I also put a drain plug in the drain pan as was recommended. ( I think I’ll change my fluid a lot more often now)
c. Now you can wipe up the garage floor, because you know you didn’t put the plastic down!
As mechanic jobs go it was an easy one, about 4 or 5 hours work taking your time. It would be good to do steps 1-10 at night and let it drain and drip all night. Then you can rebuild the VB and start back in without getting “rained on.” Personally I recommend reading the Diaries through plenty of times, there’s a wealth of information there. My special thanks to Glacier, ROE, BrooklynBay, 2001ExpSport, Wrench, and others who responded to me quickly and supplied instant knowledge, answered (probably foolish) questions, and generally inspired confidence to “do the job yourself.” A job completed for around $200 as opposed to the tranny shop quote of $1,600 for a “rebuilt tranny.” Maybe for the $1,400 saved, you can talk the Mrs. into buying that tool you’ve been dreaming of. In my case she’d rather take it out in Zombies at the local Chinese joint.
Good Luck,
Bill
