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How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
911 type questions

Ok guys, my tranny is all apart, now I need to get it back together tomorrow.

Here is what I have done:

Ford TSB kit
Sonnax Boost valve
Boost valve spring from Superior kit
Forward engagement control valve spring from Superior kit
Skipped from Superior kit: coast clutch valve, thermo blocker, valve from bore that I put Ford valve in

Still have to do the servos.

Questions:

1st and most important: I failed to keep track of where the bolts go that attach the valve body to the tranny. D'oh! Here is what I have:

16 40mm bolts
4 45mm bolts
4 20mm bolts
2 35mm bolts
1 30mm bolt

I need you guys to tell me where these go, el pronto.

2. Do I still need to drill the sep plate and/or install the pressure riser if I did the Ford TSB kit?

3. Do I replace the big o-ring on the reverse servo with the double lip seal?

4. My two gaskets for the sep plate are different. One has the gasket going all the way around the reverse servo, one does not. I assume that the first one goes between the tranny and the sep plate, and there is no gasket between the reverse servo and its cover plate?

Finally, FYI, I was worried because the metal shafts that are inside the vb and held in by the TCC and one of the shift solenoids fell out, and I was afraid I might have mixed them up. I checked them with my caliper and they are not exactly the same diameter (only differ by 2 or 3 thousandths, but the big one won't go in the small bore) and also will only go in their respective bores one way. BTW, my factory boost valve looked exactly the same as the Sonnax. I could find no differences. I replaced it anyway. One more thing, I accidentally removed the L-shaped retainer that is the farthest north one on Glacier's diagram from the Superior instructions. It was a cast-iron b**** to get back in because you have to move a shaft against a spring through a hole on the bottom side to get the retainer to go in its groove. Lesson learned: Don't remove anything that the instructions don't specifically tell you to remove!

Anyone want to check my reassembly instructions?
Install gaskets and sep plate onto vb with vaseline and torque to spec.
Install vb onto tranny, torque bolts stepwise to spec.
Install reverse servo and cover, torque bolts to spec
Make sure manual valve engages spool
Plug wiring harness into solenoids
Reinstall filter, Bolt up pan and gasket, add fluid, go!

Sam
 



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Let's start with the FORD TSB... did you get the replacement separator plate as called for in the TSB? Assuming you did, you should still drill the holes called for in the Superior instructions.... though I think you will find that one is already resized by FORD.

Next... if you look at the varying thickness of the VB at the boss for each bolt, you will readily see which bolts go where. I'll try and get you a diagram however.... but it is more or less intuitive.

Yes replace the Big Low/Reverse Servo O-ring with the double lip (now I understand they are calling it a double wiper - which is way more accurate) seal from the Superior Kit.

You are correct about the VB gaskets.

Your reassembly procedure is dead bang on.

Make sure the filter has the O-rings in place.

Oh pressure riser. I did not install it, but later found that it's purpose was to give a 5 PSI line rise in normal operation. I might be inclined to install it. Your call.
 






Bolt Placement

I am attaching a photo listing the bolt sizes and their respective placement in the VB. Hope this helps.
Rob
98 Explorer XLT
 

Attachments

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Thank you Robrike!!
 






Glad to help

No problem. I hope that helps him out. I thought I might have to ask for the same thing when I was doing mine but my template worked. The info could be handy though. I think with that diagram and your diary Chris there is not another ounce of info available. :)
Rob
 






2. Do I still need to drill the sep plate and/or install the pressure riser if I did the Ford TSB kit?
SamRebel, I installed the revised FORD plate, and still had to drill out the holes; I think there were two that had to be enlarged. Check the hole dimensions very carefully and compare with the drill bits included in the Superior kit. (Mine is a 2000 model 5R55E.)

I did not install the pressure riser, but I did install a new EPC solenoid. I also installed the thermo blocker. As Glacier says, these are just judgement calls, and my main goal was to not have to remove the pan again anytime soon.... :). So far, so good. It's been about a year and 14K miles, and it still shifts perfectly.

ROE
 






No joy

Guys, thanks for the responses to my questions. I managed to figure out the places for all of the bolts, like Glacier said. (Thanks anyway Robrike!)However, I couldn't get the snap-rings out of the servo bores, even with Glacier's Ford cover compressing tool. (On the way back to you, Glacier, thanks) I was lying on my back in a puddle of transmission fluid, holding an LED light in my teeth, a mirror in one hand, and a pair of snap ring pliers in the other. I could see that with the pliers' ends in the right angle position, they wouldn't open up wide enough to hook the ends of the snap ring. Also, the Ford tool fit perfectly onto the pan flange for the front servo, but I couldn't figure out how to use it for the back servo. I used a file to make my pliers open up wider, but I couldn't get them wide enough. Even if I had had better pliers, I'm not sure I could have gotten the snap rings out. The access problem is horrendous, even with the heat shield removed. (I just pushed it up out of the way.) Frank, how you got those out with the tranny in the truck with just little screwdrivers is beyond me. You must be a supermechanic or something. Anyway, I left them in, and buttoned everything back up. And... the problem is still there. So I am just going to have to take the truck to somebody who knows what they are doing. One more thing: I could see parts of the bands with the vb off. The front most band would move a little when I pressed on it. I pushed on either end that I could see and I think I verifed that the ends were still connected. I don't know how tight that band is supposed to be, but I could bow it in a little by pressing on it. The rearmost band was extremely tight. Thanks again for everybody's help, and I'll let you guys know what the problem is when I know.

Sam
 






robrike40 said:
No problem. I hope that helps him out. I thought I might have to ask for the same thing when I was doing mine but my template worked. The info could be handy though. I think with that diagram and your diary Chris there is not another ounce of info available. :)
Rob

Seriously, that photo is probably one of the top ten for this diary. I think you should send him a mouse pad Glacier.
 






Do I really need the updated seperator plate? I bought the transgo kit, vb gaskets and the new epc. THanks guys this is an awesome forum.
 






If you have the Transgo kit, it accomplishes the same thing as the FORD mod, just a little differently, so NO, you do NOT need the upgraded Sep plate.... you will rivet the hole shut in the old one, as opposed to buying a new one without the hole in it.

PS. Thank you for the kind words, and welcome to the Forum!
 






Okay thanks, wasnt too sure about it. I really appreciate what you and everyone else is doing here Glacier. You guys dont know how much money you guys have saved me from getting my tranny rebuilt. My rig has 185,000 (yes that is correct) I bought brand new in Dec of 2002 and this is the first problem I have had with my truck. I love this truck and was gonna get raped for $2,800 to get my tranny rebuilt, until I decided to look up the symptoms mine was doing and I found this forum. Thank God, now I will only be spending around $200 for parts and I did this myself. Tomorrow I will take it for a long test drive. Again a million thanks.
 






Let us know if you got it fixed! Feedback is always important on here, we all learn from one another.

And, if this all helped, how about joining us as a member? We'd love to have you! Best $20 you'll ever spend.
 






Glacier991 said:
And, if this all helped, how about joining us as a member? We'd love to have you! Best $20 you'll ever spend.

I'll second that, plus you get Elite Status!! :D
 






I have a 2000 w/5R55E and the infammous 2-3 flare. I was soo close to buying a VB from Glaicer, but I paid a grand for an exteneded 100k mile warranty and in theory it was covered. I was scared to do the VB myself, in hindsight that might have been dumb , anyhow, so into the local tranny shop it went. Hey it is free right.....They installed . the Ford updated seprator plate and some parts ( guy said it was a blow off valve) and replaced a blown out reverse servo gasket. Go the truck back and it is worse than eve, . Yikes, do you think they warped /did not torque the VB correctly? The new seperator plate doies not make it slip in2 and 3rd and make shifts total musch does it? Shop is busy and said they can't pull it back apart until end of the week so I have it back for time being. Warranty people say nothing is covered without broken parts...this could be a mess. Can you always see parts/bores/warpage or anyhting that causes the flair?
 






Well since now that THEY opened it and it's worse, the best advice I can tell you is to be patient and take it back to them. They are now responsible for whatever happens since they were the last hand in the till.

Good luck,
Matt
 






2001ExpSport said:
Seriously, that photo is probably one of the top ten for this diary. I think you should send him a mouse pad Glacier.

Good idea. I have several waiting to go on my next trip to the Post Office......I went last Sat and the line was a mile long with 2 windows open <sheesh>... (yeah I left in a Huff, a 1964 Huff Sedan)....if Robrike sends me a snail mail addy in a PM I'll send him one. The rest of you please be patient.... you'll enjoy the pads....WHEN they get there. I am headed back to Montana (home for me, even though have been gone 30 years) this weekend, maybe I'll mail them there where old style work ethic and small crowds exist.....
 






Oh and... the things you asked about are not visible easily mnealuf. Let them worry it. My fear is they will tell you that you need a rebuild. You should have replaced the EPC at the same time... ask RunninOnEmpty.
 






Hey Glacier and everyone else :) Okay ran the truck for about 2 miles and it was lagging to shift. So I punched it and it ran great, firmer shifts and no problem until I slowed down and again it was slipping. I checked the tranny fluid and it did not register anything on the dipstick so I put another quart in ( I had originally put in four). I check dip stick and still nothing. So again I put another. And it barely resgistered on the dipstick. Well here comes the seventh now it seemed it was normal. So after doing the vb upgrade and letting all the trann fluid drain. It took 7 quarts to fill her up, does this sound right? Also I forgot that when I started having problems with this this tranny my o/d light was flashing. Well after I filled her up with 7 quarts she ran great!! No more problems, shifing was alot firmer and more responsive I was a happy camper. But when I stopped to get some gas it smelled like tranny fluid. So I pulled the dipstick and smelled a little burnt and tranny fluid was a little dark. Okay I double check the level and it seemed find. I went to Autzone and borrowed their obd II tool and the only code that came up was p1401 aux emissions control. Well I checked my dmfe (or whatever) sensor and there was no carbon buildup at all. I even clean the metal and egr tube combo. Then went back to Autozone to clear the code. Five minutes later when I got on the freeway the damn o/d kept on flashing. Well I ignored and kept on driving for a few hours with no problems for about 100 plus miles. Well tonight on my way to work I was cruising at 70 and floored her to pass someone when it rev all the way 6,000 rpm and seemed like it was slipping. I let off the gas and got off the freeway. I got out and it smelled really bad like tranny fluid and threre was a bunch of smoke. I let her cool off a bit by shutting the vehicle off and tried to to take off but it was slipping in all gears when i took off and it was not acting right and from then on I took the slow lane to work at 55mph and so far she is acting fine but it really smells horrible like burnt tranny fluid. This is after putting 100 plus miles after the vb mods. What gives? Any ideas? There were no metal shaving or any foreign material when I initially dropped the pan. I check my fluid after I got to work and let her cool off and I pulled the fluid and it smells nasty and dark. Another thing too I have one of those infrared theromometer with a lazer pointer built in (Christms Gift) and I was reading the temps on the tranny lines going into the radiator the top one was 145 F and the bottom was 155 F is this a normal temperature after running the vehicle at idle for a few minutes? I did this when I initially filled her up with 7 quarts and was acting fine. What I was thinking is to drain the fluid and check the pan for any funny stuff and filler her up again and see what happens. What else do you guys think I should? Is the o/d flashing causing something? When I did the vb upgrade I put in a new epc but did not replace any other sensors. Again my vehicle has 185,000 miles on it. Should I replace the TCC solenoid as well when drop the pan again? Thanks guys
 






I forgot to metioned that I used Mercon V fluid and noting else no additives or anything also I used the fram filter from kragen.
 



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It feels as if my torque converter is not locking up. hmmmm
 






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