How to: - 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary | Page 7 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
Zippee-

All I had to remove was the heat sheild and the pan. Granted I could not install the Superior intermediate servo spring, but other than that, no other parts had to be removed.
 



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The driveshaft doesn't need to be pulled. I believe that the SOHC engines have a cat pipe which has to be removed. If so, spray the bolts with penetrating oil, long before loosening those bolts. Regards,
 






To finally make this thread complete, here is a pic of the torque sequence for the VB bolts. Zippee, I also recommend you retighten the sep plate 3 bolts to 75 inch lbs. Some minor crush might have occurred. Here is the sequence (I'll post a scanner image later, for now I took a pic of the FORD Manual page

15286DSCN6227-med.jpg


Note in the lower right the torque 71 - 97 inch/lbs. I'd bring it up in maybe 2 or 3 passes.


[Kaiser, a picture post without fingers is like a day without.... I dunno.... what, catshit?]
 






Not sure where to post this little vignette...but since it is valve body related here may be a good place.

As I have explored FORD transmissions..... I realized that as computer control came more into being in the 90's you needed a way to run the transmission unhooked from the vehicle wiring so you knew if the problem was truly trans, or the computer commands to it..... hence my acquisition of a FORD transmission tester.... on E-bay - I now have a 2nd one I am readying for sale btw. (I kind of skulk around on E-bay looking from time to time)....

The other thing I realized was there needed to be a way to test the solenoids... not the on and off ones, those are easy, but the EPC's and MCC's.... the PRICEY ones need something special that could cycle them and challenge their "different" way of operation.

Well I discovered that there is a company... Schaffer Test Products.... that makes solenoid testers .... pretty sophisticated ones...(www.schaffertest.com)... that do just that. Yeah but....PRICEY - $1500. OW.

But guess what... one showed up on E-bay and I bought it.... for......$54. YEP. FIFTY FOUR STINKIN BUCKS.

Now when they say "seems to power up, but I have no way to test" that should be a flag.... and is why I got it so cheap.... it works... but.... where I am supposed to be able to set a voltage at 5V I cannot get it past 1.5...

More research (this is where my limited electronic background helps) and I think I found the issue... (for your electronic wierdos - it is an IC 60V P-channel MOSFET in a TO-220 design on a heat sink.... IRF9541) So I am going to try replacing that part.... for under $5. If I can get this to work I'll have made the deal of the century and completed my transmission tools. I'll keep you posted.

Electronic gurus please PM me... I can use help....
 






ive been reading your post on these transmission testers and have sometimes thought that they look simple enough to build - especially for the "on and off" ones as you mentioned.

may i ask what makes the "pricey" ones different from the "on and off" ones? are these solenoids pulsed or something?

what'd be great is if some1 could design a schematic of a serial interface (to connect to a laptop - doing the D/A conversions and what not and also provide proper power to the solenoids) to connect to a wiring harness which then connects to the transmission connector. writing the software would probably be a snap since the logic seems simple enough (at least initially it does, it probably wont later on down the road ;) )
 






In a word yes. The Ford Transmission tester mainly acts to operate the transmission in the place of the computer, and at the same time give you what amounts to a "breakout box" for the solenoids so you can access them electrically without taking anything apart. It does not act to modulate any solenoid or check EPC solenoid performance per se, other than to see if the car shifts and acts ok without the computer in charge. You can use the New Generation Star (NGS - my kingdom for a NGS) tester to do those kinds of tests. This current tester I just acquired off E-bay DOES do frequency modulation of the MCC and EPC kind of solenoids, and uses air to test their response. It does not take the place of the FORD tester, but gives a greater dimension and ability to test the solenoids once you have them removed from the control body and out of the car. For the on/off variety, this tester is not much more sophistiocated that simply using a straight 12v power supply and clicking them while you run cleaner thru them. The modulated ones are where it shines. (And those are the main problem children anyway)
 






thats interesting. any EE's in the washington/NOVA area that wants to discuss this a bit (we'll start off slow)? i have a complete working 5r55e in the back yard (it squeels when running but i think that might just be a bearing, torque converter or something).
 






any part of the rebuild need pics? i am doing mine finally on friday if so i can take the pics then.


j
 






Extra spring?

ok first the pic :

2036219_38_full.jpg

what your looking at.. a brown spring that has come up through the bore. So I pulled that section out and.. hmmm.. theres a spring there.. it was sticking before.. ie it was tough to moved the plug.. put it back to together and it moves fine. but where does the spring goes? or was it an extra one from who ever rebuilt it? either way the manual gets here tomorrow..
 






That is the reverse modulation valve. There is a deep inner spool, a spring, a mid bore retainer held by the L retainer, a spring, the outer spool, and finally a plug at the end of the bore. That could be the inner spring.
 






ok that explained the slow to engage reverse.. it was that spring took a little work to get it all part..
 






There should only be 2 springs in that bore. On and off springs got added as passage way "filters" to catch big debris....by rebuilders.... when you find one wadded up in the maze of the valve body, that's probably what it was.

I was gonna pull one apart and show you the exploded view, but the middle bore retainer is a *****.
 






Zhanx sent me this link. Sonnax has come out with a new catalog, number 6 (As I understand it - thank you James in Hawaii) and this is from that catalog... a beautiful break down of this VB bore by bore with hints etc.... here it is... slow loader.

http://www.transmissionspecialty.com/parts/PDF/37947-Book(in).pdf

(somehow this didn't post as a clickable link, but you can cut and paste it into your browser)
 






pages 4 and 5 show the break down
 






This post is for the discussion on drain pan plugs on the previous page. I once used one of these drain plug kits, and the seals leaked. I removed it, and installed a magnetic drain plug, with a nut that is soldered (not welded) to the inside of the pan on an A4LD. Even though the pan already had a magnet, this magnetic drain plug was able to catch a lot of metal shavings. I recommend this set up for two reasons. The first one is that the drain plug on that kit is very small, and doesn't let the oil drain very fast. This is a standard size drain plug, just like the one on the engine's oil pan. The second one is that it is simple, and uses a minimum of discrete parts. Why use a small plug with a bushing when all you actually need is just the plug? I guess they think it's easier to install, because it doesn't require any soldering. I also made this same set up on my rear differential cover. It uses two of these. The top one is to fill the differential, and the lower one is to drain it.
 






After some heavy searching I found some sites providing all the parts listed in this diary. These sites also had the best pricing, hope this helps. :thumbsup:

A great link to Ford OEM parts and also the site sponsor. Most already know about this one. Here you can get the TSB update kit, gaskets, filter, solenoid bracket etc.
Fast Parts Network

Great price on the Sonnax Boost Valve(sort by Title, boost valve should be third) The TransGo Shift Kit is also available here.
Transmission Parts USA

Superior and Transgo shift kits(also the boost valve, but TransParts USA is cheaper)
Automatic Transmission Parts, Makco Distributing, Inc.

Additionally, here are some part numbers*:
Sonnax Boost Valve:37947-01K(OEM RATIO)
Superior Shift Kit:K4R/5R55E
TransGo Shift Kit:SK4R44E/55
Ford VB Kit:3L5Z7M203JA
Ford Solenoid Braket Update:XL2Z7L491AA

*Vehicle specific parts not listed:
VB Separator Plate
VB Separator Plate Gasket
Filter
Pan Gasket

Vehicle Specific Part Application Chart(Calling your local Ford dealer will help in deciphering which parts you need here)
Vehicle Application Engineering Description Qty. New Service Part Use on Transmission Application 7000 -Reference Only-
95/96 Models ONLY
95/97 Models Separator Plate to Case Gasket 1 2L5Z-7C155-AA ALL
95/97 Models Separator Plate to Main Control Gasket 1 2L5Z-7D100-BA ALL
95/96 Models - ALL Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F5TZ-7A008-CA 95GT-AA/BA/CA/DA/EA/FA/ GA;96GT-BA/CADB/EB/FA/ GA/HA/KA/MA/NA
97 Models ONLY
97 2.3L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-AB 97GT-GC
97 3.0L OHV Ranger/Aerostar Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-AB 97GT-EC/FC/MC/NC/RE/SE
97 4.0L OHV Ranger/Aerostar Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-CB 97GT-KE/LE
97 4.0L OHV Explorer/Mountaineer Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-DB 97GT-KF/LF
97 4.0L SOHC Explorer/Mountaineer Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-EB 97GT-AE/BE
1998-2001 Models ONLY
98/01 2.5L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-DA 98GT-GA; XL5P-CA
98/00 3.0L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-EA 98GT-EB/FB; XL5P-AA/BA
98/00 4.0L - EI Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-FA 98GT-KB/LB; XL5P-DA/EA/FA
98/00 4.0L - EI Explorer Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-GA 98GT-CB/DB; XL2P- EA/FA
98/00 4.0L - SOHC Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-HA 98GT-AA/BA; XL2P- CA/DA
2001-2002 Models ONLY
2001/2002 2.3L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-AA 1L5P-CA
2001/2002 3.0L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-BA 1L5P-AA/BA
2001/2002 4.0L-SOHC - ALL Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-CA 1L5P-DA/EA

I KNOW MOST OF THIS HAS BEEN PREVIOUSLY POSTED. MY INTENTION IS FOR ALL THIS INFORMATION TO BE ON ONE POST.

Thanks again Glacier...
 






Did the rebuild today. Started around noon and finished at 7 or so. Took me a bit longer because I misjudged the amount for refill. For the most part I'll give the rebuild a B+. If the instructions gave more detailed info on what each mod did would help a lot. Reasons why certain problems occur would also be of great interest.(ie, why it is flaring on 3rd or slow reverse engagement, etc.) I too did not do the "Pressure Riser" mod with the same idea of 'going back" if it needed to be done. Then again, I have no idea what the hell it does so what's the difference? I won't miss it either way....

Although the instruction for both the Ford and Superior mods were detailed, they were not detailed enough. I found many questionable areas.

I would like to personally thank the engineer that decided to bond the gaskets to the sep plate. Holy crap, that saves some aggrivation!!

Finally, no one can prepare you for the ATF shower that awaits those destined for a VB rebuild.....lol....good luck and may the force be with you.

Matt
 






:thumbsup: Good job, Matt. So how does it shift? I presume the 2-3 flare is gone? And did you replace the EPC solenoid?

I did mine almost a year ago, with about 11K miles on it now, and still no problems. (Knock on wood and cross fingers.) I noticed immediately after doing the work, that the transmission seemed to shift at more uniform RPM points. Seemed to change gears much better than when stock. Hope yours is doing as well.

Have to go now; gotta chase that fat man and his reindeer off my roof.....

Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkah to all,

ROE
 






2001ExpSport said:
Finally, no one can prepare you for the ATF shower that awaits those destined for a VB rebuild.....
Matt

umm.. loosen the bolts after jackin the front of the truck up.. start at the rear and work both sides to the front.. a standerd drip pan will get it all almost. for wher it hits the crossmember I just used to quick clamps to stop the flow and keep it in the drip pan.. with only one or two bolts it drains a ton. just dont be like me and drop the pan on yourself as you drop it down to finish draining it.

j
 



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zhanx said:
umm.. loosen the bolts after jackin the front of the truck up.. start at the rear and work both sides to the front.. a standerd drip pan will get it all almost. for wher it hits the crossmember I just used to quick clamps to stop the flow and keep it in the drip pan.. with only one or two bolts it drains a ton. just dont be like me and drop the pan on yourself as you drop it down to finish draining it.

j


HA, easier said than done! Sure, you can easily stay dry enough getting the pan off, it's removing the VB that gets you... :p
 






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