5r55e :(

[Dlr281!]

I have a 4.0 05 Sport Trac. I bought it to fix and resell. It only had 2nd gear. The kid I bought it from said it went out going down highway, so it jumped to 2nd gear and that was it. So no drive, or reverse either. I figured ok it needs a trans. I put a used one in. Filled with fluid warmed it up, it won’t move forward or backwards in any gear. I pulled codes, 743, 750, 755, 760, 765, 962. I’m guessing these are the codes from the old trans? I cleared them and nothing changed. I’m thinking I would unplug everything spray with contact cleaner abs try again. Could the ECU be bad? Any help would be great thanks

 

[Dlr281!]

I have a 4.0 05 Sport Trac. I bought it to fix and resell. It only had 2nd gear. The kid I bought it from said it went out going down highway, so it jumped to 2nd gear and that was it. So no drive, or reverse either. I figured ok it needs a trans. I put a used one in. Filled with fluid warmed it up, it won’t move forward or backwards in any gear. I pulled codes, 743, 750, 755, 760, 765, 962. I’m guessing these are the codes from the old trans? I cleared them and nothing changed. I’m thinking I would unplug everything spray with contact cleaner abs try again. Could the ECU be bad? Any help would be great thanks

Small update. Pulled all 4 electrical plugs off and sprayed both sides with contact cleaner. Ran truck while in the air, tires are not even trying to move in any gear. The donor car was an 02 Ranger 4.0 4x4. I did rescan for codes and none this time. I only ran it 5 minutes or so. RPMs drop slightly while shifting through gears. The fluid is fine also. This trans I installed has all the same plugs and looks identical to the one removed. A side note the 20 amp fuse that runs the obd2 was blown, I have it jumped to pull codes, no other blown fuses. Thanks I’m about out of ideas, maybe swap the ecu…

 

[Josh P]

What are the odds that the donor transmission had the same problem?

 

[Dlr281!]

What are the odds that the donor transmission had the same problem?

I have no reason to believe I swapped in a bad trans, but it is possible. I contacted the guy I bought it from and he said the truck it came from drive fine besides the rear end pinion gear, and the 4.0 timing chains going out. I’m willing to try some more things before I think the trans is bad…

 

[JK080]

Its not going to a electrical problem, either the pump is bad or there is not enough fluid. I would remove a cooler line and start the engine, if nothing comes out the pump is not working. You can also check the fluid level with the engine off, make mental note where the level is on the stick (it should be high), then start the engine and check the fluid again the level should drop. If the level is the same with the engine off and running the pump is not working.

Pump damage during installation due to the converter not being fully seated is about the number one cause of a no movement situation after install.

 

[Dlr281!]

Its not going to a electrical problem, either the pump is bad or there is not enough fluid. I would remove a cooler line and start the engine, if nothing comes out the pump is not working. You can also check the fluid level with the engine off, make mental note where the level is on the stick (it should be high), then start the engine and check the fluid again the level should drop. If the level is the same with the engine off and running the pump is not working.

Pump damage during installation due to the converter not being fully seated is about the number one cause of a no movement situation after install.

I will look into this later on today and report my findings. Thanks

 

[Dlr281!]

I pulled the top line off the radiator and ran truck for 15-20 seconds. I got about 2- 4 ounces of fluid out. I’m assuming this is my issue. The fluid should have came out with some force and a lot more volume I believe, or does this test need to be done with it warmed up? I wouldn’t mind some confirmation on this. I’ve never took a transmission apart, should I pull it and have a shop fix it or not?

 

[Dlr281!]

What if I pulled the trans out and swapped the pump out from the trans that came in the truck? That trans drove, but only had 2nd gear. Is rebuilding the pump something I could do myself? 4R44E 4R55E 5R55E Transmission Pump Repair Set & Gear Set | eBay
I’m pretty sure I installed the trans correct and didn’t hurt the pump. When I bought the used trans the convertor was not on the trans. I put it on and spun it several times while pushing it in. I felt several clunks and thought it was good. But what if the guy left it attached to the flywheel when he pulled the trans, could that have messed up the pump? I’m no trans expert I’m just trying to get this turned around without have to pay for an entire rebuild. Btw what is a fair price to pay for a rebuild with me doing the removal and install?

 

[JK080]

To have a shop rebuild it and give some kind of a decent warranty you should expect somewhere between 2k and 2500. If you do the removal and install expect 1k to 1500. Shops like to stay away from the carry in's or bench builds just because of installation/setup issues that may damage the transmission. If the transmission doesn't work right the shop ends up with the vehicle anyways.

The best way to check for pump pressure is to remove the main line pressure plug and check with a gauge, there is a thermal valve in the valve body that may be preventing you from getting a accurate test for a failed pump using the cooler line method on this vehicle. The dipstick level test is a good one to try if you dont have a gauge.

With the engine off, make mental note where the level is on the stick (it should be high), then start the engine and check the fluid again the level should drop. If the level is the same with the engine off and running the pump is not working.

Before you pull it back out make sure the fluid level is correct, the filter is installed correctly and it's the correct filter for the pan, make sure o'rings are on the filter and they are the correct ones, make sure the manual valve is connected to the linkage and works.

I wouldn't worry about trying to rebuild your pump right now it can be tricky, but you could just swap the pumps, it's easy to do and you dont even have to remove the pan....let's get here first.

 

[Dlr281!]

Sounds good, I’ll note dip stick level and run it. I dont have a gauge. I will try to add pictures. Thanks

 

[CDW6212R]

Check the dipstick carefully, what you see on each side of it will usually be different. Do not believe the high side, only pay attention to the side of the dipstick which shows the lowest level.
That means put the dipstick in twice to begin with, and figure out which side is showing the lowest level. Then you can rely on that side being accurate, but it takes a few times to figure out which side that is. The actual level should be up to the top line, top of the hatch marks, when warmed up, and at least there when cold.

There's over 12 quarts of ATF in the system, draining it all during a trans R&R can require that much. If the VB never comes off, then the trans holds 2-3 quarts alone, and a full TQ has a gallon. Usually it's best to add six quarts to begin after installing a trans, an then quickly add a couple more once it's running, then check the fluid.

Hopefully you need some more fluid, and nothing more serious is going on.

 

[Dlr281!]

I checked the fluid today cold not running. It’s over full a fair amount. I started the truck and warmed it up. The level shows a much lower/correct amount. 1st pic is running/warm, 2nd is not running/cold. When I filled it up after install I put in a bottle of Lucas and almost 2 gallons to bring it up the current level. I do know the trick about rolling the dip stick around and looking at it different to see the lowest point. That was a good way to explain that and I can see how that could be over looked. Thanks

 

[donalds]

All the oil drains back to the trans pan from the trans cooler
Its normal
Check it hot and running that's all that matters

 

[Dlr281!]

The trans I pulled out originally is on line to be rebuilt…