5R55S slow engagement after fluid and filter service

[smitchell]

The transmission had no problems before servicing. After servicing, it is slow to engage after coming to a stop or coasting down to a lower gear, there is a delay engaging. After stopping it needs to hit 1800 rpm to engage and does so harder than normal. You can bring the rpms up slowly to about 1200 rpm and after a longer delay it will engage. When pressing the accelerator, the rpms do not rise immediately. It acts like the computer controls the rpm increase (this might be normal, but if really do not know). After stopping, if shifted to park or neutral and back into gear it engages normally. So this problem only occurs after moving forward then stopping, or coasting with at least one downshift.
2004 Explorer, V6, 5R55S, 5-speed with 130,000 miles and no history (no trailer hitch). Vehicle had one previous owner, is in excellent condition and had a recent oil change sticker in windshield when I purchased it. It did not appear abused when I purchased it. I have had it for 9 months and it has driven prefect in that time. I decided to service the transmission as best practice. The transmission has operated normally before the service. New fluid: Valvoline Max Life, Full Synthetic with Ford filter.
Changed fluid, filter, and cleaned the pan and magnet. Fluid was somewhat discolored, no metal debris in pan, and the magnet was saturated. Old o-rings came out with the old filter and installed the new filter with supplied o-rings. Checked the fluid level after bring the transmission up to operating temperature. It poured some, then slowed to a drip, put the Torx plug in.
After servicing and before moving the vehicle, shifted through the gear range and each gear engaged. It backed out normally, went forward normally. Reached the end of the yard, stopped for traffic, then pressed accelerator and there was about a five second delay engaging with a harder than normal engagement. It does not do this in reverse. It only does it after the vehicle is in motion and then stopped in drive or any forward gear with 3 to 6 second delay and a harsher engagement. If the accelerator is applied a little while stopping, the transmission remains engaged and moves forward with no delay. Occasionally it does not do this, but does it more than not.
This morning, I checked for leaks and none. I then added a half pint of fluid. Pulled the Torx plug, it dripped and accumulated about a half pint in the pan. I added another pint and put the plug in quickly. The additional fluid made no difference. I then drove out of town 90 miles with no stops. I then wait two hours and drove around the neighborhood stopping and going. There seemed to be some improvement at first and I almost thought it had cleared up, but the problem is back and is steady in the delayed engagement.
I am mechanically inclined, have a working knowledge of automatic transmissions and have never gone past a normal service. I can handle troubleshooting and repairs. Suggestions please?
S Mitchell

 

[Littleant]

I would only use motorcraft Mercon V Right from Valvoline it should be noted that MaxLife Multi-Vehicle ATF is not an OEM licensed product. The respective vehicle manufacturers have neither evaluated nor endorsed MaxLife Multi-Vehicle ATF in these applications. If

 

[smitchell]

I would only use motorcraft Mercon V Right from Valvoline it should be noted that MaxLife Multi-Vehicle ATF is not an OEM licensed product. The respective vehicle manufacturers have neither evaluated nor endorsed MaxLife Multi-Vehicle ATF in these applications. If

Thank you. I would imagine flushing all 12 quarts might be impossible now. I had an online chat with Valvoline asking if it was compatible with my vehicle by year and model. The representative said it would work prefect. I copied and kept a record of the conversation.

 

[Coolhand20th]

Nope has to be Mercon V otherwise it "possibly " could mess things up. Those all for one transmission fluids are junk imho even when I sold auto parts for several years I would always discourage people from buying those and to put in exactly what it called for not some universal garbage. I usually buy my Mercon V at Menards for 4.99 normal price sometimes like last week it was 3.99 a quart.

 

[smitchell]

Opinions are well and fine and are not readily available when purchasing. I decided to go with a fully synthetic because usually they preform the best. Sorry I didn't know this before hand. So whats the solution? New transmission?

 

[swshawaii]

Valvoline™ ATF for MERCON® V Applications : Product Catalog - Valvoline™

 

[smitchell]

Valvoline™ ATF for MERCON® V Applications : Product Catalog - Valvoline™

Thank you.

 

[Coolhand20th]

Mercon V is synthetic. I wasn't trying to be rude but you say you talked to Valvoline they should have been smart enough not to tell you to buy that stuff. As others have pointed out no one has tested it for use in their transmissions. Being that it hasn't been in there that long you should be able to flush it a couple times then replace the filter on the last time or take it to a reputable mechanics shop to have them flush it and tell them the situation. I know in some parts they allow you to bring in your own parts my mechanic does which saves me tons of money when I or my father can't do the job ourselves or don't have time. Link below has the menards link for Mercon V for Valvoline there and its still 3.99 a quart.

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-...72-c-10098.htm?tid=5365518182827864239&ipos=1

 

[smitchell]

Mercon V is synthetic. I wasn't trying to be rude but you say you talked to Valvoline they should have been smart enough not to tell you to buy that stuff. As others have pointed out no one has tested it for use in their transmissions. Being that it hasn't been in there that long you should be able to flush it a couple times then replace the filter on the last time or take it to a reputable mechanics shop to have them flush it and tell them the situation. I know in some parts they allow you to bring in your own parts my mechanic does which saves me tons of money when I or my father can't do the job ourselves or don't have time. Link below has the menards link for Mercon V for Valvoline there and its still 3.99 a quart.

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-...72-c-10098.htm?tid=5365518182827864239&ipos=1

Thank you for the link. That is a good price. I am still stuck with a sticky transmission with an expensive product. I was hoping to find a solution like maybe reset a computer or adjust something. Anything that helps is very much appreciated and thank you for taking your time to reply.

I found this at this Valvoline link tonight. I’ll give them a call.

US_VAL_ML_ATF_EN.docx - SpringCM

Valvoline has conducted extensive testing and has a long history of successful use of MaxLife ATF in a broad range of applications. In the unlikely event that you or your customer experiences any transmission damage while using MaxLife ATF in a Valvoline recommended application, please contact Valvoline at 1-800-Team-VAL for assistance.

 

[Littleant]

Check lubegard. They have an additive to correct this. Change Any Fluid to Mercon V LUBEGARD ATF Supplement for Ford Applications

 

[smitchell]

Check lubegard. They have an additive to correct this. Change Any Fluid to Mercon V LUBEGARD ATF Supplement for Ford Applications

I will look into this product. Thank you.

 

[smitchell]

I called Valvoline (1-800-Team-VAL) and initiated a claim. Their instructions are to take it to a transmission shop of my choice, collect a 6 to 7 once sample for analysis, send it in and go from there. If I desire a refund for the fluid, just send in a copy of the receipts. The representative did not volunteer there was claim form until I said I'd like for them to fix the problem since it only appeared after installing MaxLife and upon the first drive out to the street.

As far as I know there are no adjustments on this transmission, so I suppose it is a “go or no go” situation. I have never done more than a fluid and filter change and don’t feel like doing this at home. I will take it to a shop and go from there. Perhaps their experience will save the day. If it needs repair, then maybe it is a sign it needs a new transmission or rebuild. Otherwise I might be throwing more good money at a failing transmission nearing the end of usable life. From reading all the blogs the 5R55S was designed with weak valve bodies and there are many upgrade kits. Without estimates, I can't be sure what direction to go today. First to a shop, then go from there depending on cost. The vehicle is actually in really nice shape having been garaged all its life.

If anybody knows, what valve body, switch, solenoid might be the cause of this slow engaging problem that would be helpful if it is a part I can replace without dropping the transmission.

 

[Littleant]

You had no problems BEFORE the fluid change. Problem started AFTER the fluid change. See what the shop has to say. The only variable is the fluid. You seem to have done everything correct even making sure the O rings came off with the filter. Transmission fluid change is not rocket science. I do not see where you did anything wrong. [Again from Valvoline website>MaxLife Multi-Vehicle ATF is not an OEM licensed product. The respective vehicle manufacturers have neither evaluated nor endorsed MaxLife Multi-Vehicle ATF in these applications. <} Go there and print it out.

 

[transman304]

I’m thinking your fluid level is still low.

 

[smitchell]

I’m thinking your fluid level is still low.

I'm thinking you may be right. Thank you for some clarity.

What I know is transmissions work on pressure and pressure points. A delayed engagement could be a sticky valve or low pressure (hopefully due to low fluid). So what does it hurt to add a quart and see what happens? Low fluid symptoms are pretty obvious - it fails to preform properly (as in my case) or does move. I'll do that tomorrow morning and see what happens.

Here is what I am missing, the theory of operation. What is actually happening inside when it disengages? Is this normal when stopping?

Standing still it engages 1st gear and goes forward normally. You let off the gas and coast or come to a complete stop it disengages like it was moved to neutral. To engage again, it needs lots of time (10 to 15 seconds), or more rpms to speed up engagement (catches harder), then it goes on normally. On deceleration I am assuming pressure decreases as the torque converter slows. So maybe more fluid will over come what acts like a low fluid problem. To me adding a quart is worth a try.

Any cautions here?

 

[transman304]

You are way overthinking this. Has nothing to do with pressure it is supply and demand. The pump demands a controlled amount of fluid to operate at all times. If that supply of fluid isn’t there the pump will have cavitation and cause the issues you described. Think of it like you are drinking through a straw and get to the bottom and you start to get air in with your drink, stop drinking for a moment then start again you will get the beverage for a small duration with no air but then the air will start appearing. When sitting most fluid in transmission is in the sump,upon driving fluid is all over the internals and takes more time to return to the sump. As far as extra fluid added the transmission will just spit it out the breather. Did you list how many quarts you replaced with the pan drop?

 

[smitchell]

3 and a half quarts came out of the pan. Disconnect the cooler to flush more. Three gallons out, three gallons in. Then drained until it slowed to a drip. Next mornong, checked again and added about half a pint, put plug back in before it slowed to a drip. Still engages slow after stopping.

 

[transman304]

Another thought came to mind on the snout of the filter. There are a couple different lengths. 2.4 inch and a 1.3 pick up tube. Just a thought.

 

[GroupExploder]

My fascination with this thread because my 99 4x4 XLT is slow in going into reverse when cold. Started, wait a moment or two, shift into reverse you can feel the SUV begin to move back, then a bump, like it just connected fully.

Going forward (again cold) I can sense slow shifting from 2-3. Once we are 50% of operating temp, no problem . When I did an oil change the trans, we had a leak at the dipstick seal, we went thru quart after quart to get the pan seal (one bolt) and the dip stick seal to STOP leaking.

I put that red container of what I believe was semi-synthetic which could be Valvoline, Merc V, we ran that for several weeks. I have a vacuum pump for my boat engine, I withdrew a couple of quarts. In place of that that was removed, I put in Lucas trans treatment. Then topped it off.

Still the same.

Now my 98 version of the same SUV shifts great from the very beginning. It has 205k on it. I was thinking the 99 probably was beginning to show signs that the trannie was beginning to go south.

Should I pull the complete load of ATF and replace it? I am tempted (only tempted) to put Mobil 1 ATF in this ride, only to see what it does.

Never will I ever pull the pan again. NEVER. It took us 3 weeks to get it to stop dripping from the bolts near the cat. (I have burn scars on my arm from those hot cats), AND that stupid dip stick seal. It was a PITA. But it has a new filter.

 

[smitchell]

Okay, adding one full quart this morning solved the problem.

Here is what I did; first I liked the advice that it was probably low on fluid. In my limited experience adding a pint or more usually corrected a slipping transmission with no further incident - this was many years ago. After looking up what happens when over filled, I figured a quart wasn’t going to destroy it immediately.

I started it cold; on level ground removed the fill plug. It dripped fairly well but did not start with a steady stream. I then put the fill plug in add one quart and quickly, removed the fill tube and put the plug back in. As I was doing this, it seems to want to run out steady. As slippery as this is, I managed to get the plug in quickly and lost little fluid.

In the garage it engaged all the gears normally. At the end of the drive where it slipped the first time, it pulled out normally. Went a few hundred feet to up shift it and stopped, it pulled away normally. Stopped again, this time it hesitated - I thought oh no!

I brought it up to about 45 and stopped again; and it engaged normally. So I decided to give it a heavier acceleration load and also tried each of the lower gears. My hope here was to purge any trapped air if that happens. After warming the vehicle up in a 15 minute ride, it has work as normally with numerous stops and goes.

I am going to leave the oil level as is. I considered removing a little at a time to see where it would begin to repeat. My guess is it was surely a pint low because it was hesitating, so it at least needed one pint, so adding the second pint makes the level correct for this particular case.

I’ll report back to say it how it went over the next few weeks.

I’d like to give my sincerest appreciate to all that responded. How lucky it narrowed down to what appears to be a good ending.