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How to: 5R55W transmission servo piston removal

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They look great! Why can't Ford make them like this as an OEM part? Some company should start making them for other vehicles too. I know that servo bore wear could occur on any vehicle, so this might buy time. Thanks for posting the pictures! :thumbsup:
 



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Hi Guys,

I'm new to the forum. I'm an electrician by trade and consider myself pretty handy. The same story... The OD light came on started blinking, then soon after the"Service Engine" light came on and then off the start from a red light it tachs out to 3k RPM. I have to let my foot off the gas and step on it again for it to drop hard into 2nd then it's ok from there.. I'm thinking about tackling this tranny thing myself because I don't have the $2000-$3000 to pay someone else to do the job. This thread is great! I'm thinking about buying the after market fix servos with the O rings. My question is the same point that "pipewelder74" brought up. How do I reassure myself that once I go through all the pain of stripping the "Y" pipe etc.. from around the tranny and then take the servo covers off and pull the servos out, that the struts don't fall into the transmission?!? I don't need that headache!! Any suggestions on how to handle this? I don't want to, nor do I have the time to be without the truck to drop the transmission and break it down etc...
 






Broken band?

Do you know if you have a broken band? I found pieces in the pan of mine...just sayin that if a band is busted, you have to drop the trans to replace it/them...would be way easier to do the servos then.
 






Hey pipewelder... No, I don't know. I just got the code p0755 and did some reading and found that a lot of people were saying the 02 and up are notorious for the servos due to the contrast in metals? I hope it's just the servos but I don't know.. I figured I'd try that cheapest way first..
 






Also, If the band was broken, do you think it would free spin for a few? I get's up and goes, it just won't shift by itself from 2nd to 3rd unless I release the gas and then step on it again?
 






Not sure what you mean exactly by "spin freely"...There are 2 ways that I know of to check the band though. First would be to try to tighten the band. If you cant get 10 ft/lbs or so within 2 turns or so...the band is broken. Second way is to drop your tranny pan (drain first of course) and look for pieces of the bands strut.
I would recommend the tightening method first, make sure you loosen the locknut first though...also spray your threads liberally with your favorite rust busting juice..Aero-kroil, etc..While your under there, go ahead and get those servo pin retaining rings soaking as well...as they are a bass-turd to remove.
 












How do I reassure myself that once I go through all the pain of stripping the "Y" pipe etc.. from around the tranny and then take the servo covers off and pull the servos out, that the struts don't fall into the transmission?!?

I had no problem moving the the struts around with a telescopic magnet through the servo bore without them falling out. I was a bit careful but, if they were going to fall out, they would have. They're in there pretty good from the band tension.
 






Hi Guys,

I am new to the forum and have the same problem OD Blinking light, flares between 2nd and 3rd gears and from 4th to 5th.I have an 02 Mountaineer 4.6L V8.

I removed the old servos and they looked fine replaced with new and now shift great from 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th but now it shifts really hard from 1st to 2nd gear. Do I need to adjust the bands? Did'nt do so when I did this. Also it is now shifting hard when I put it in Drive and Rear? Do I need to change the solenoid pack?

Where did I go wrong? Can you guys help?

Also great pictures and great thread. Very Helpful.
 












Hey BrooklynBay,

I checked the bores, no significant wear, actually the old servos are like new! The OD servo is completely coated with that plastic. I will post pictures later so that you can see them. I don't know if I should reinstall the OD Servo, it looks better than the one I bought.

I will do a band adjustment and see how that goes, also I have ordered a Solenoid Pack and plan on replacing the old one.

I drove it to work this morning and all gears shift very smoothly except for 1st to 2nd. I will wait for the solenoid so that I can adjust the band and check to see if I missed anything.
 






Hi Brooklyn,

I finally replaced the solenoid pack and adjusted the bands now it shifts great throughout but it looses power when reaching changing from 4th to 5th gear, it feels like the clutch is left on and it struggles to shift gear. The OD light started blinking again. :(

Can you guys help or is it time to change/rebuild the transmission?
 












No code, should I try to disconnect the ECU connector. I read this in another thread, I took it in today to a repair shop and they told me that it needs to be rebuilt.

Also, today 1st to second is shifting hard at 3,000 rpms and OD light turns on. At the shop they took car for a spin with me and the tech told me that he feels it is an internal problem since it is slipping still. They did not charge me for the diagnostic but suggested I rebuild the Transmission. I will try the ECU connection and will post results.

Let me know what you think.
 






Their scanner obviously can't read manufacturer specific transmission codes. They would retrieve the codes if they had a good scanner. A lot of shops try to push for a total rebuild. It shifts hard because it's in FMEM or "limp home" mode.
 






I finally got a code P0732 which supposedly GEAR 2 INCORRECT RATIO, any suggestions on what to do without rebuilding the transmission?
 









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Hey Brooklyn,

Thanks for the information, this is something I cannot do and need to take it to a shop. At least I tried.

Thanks for all your help.
 






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