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6 inch lift

Travisfab

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i get it! i love driving lifted trucks, dont get me wrong, its just all that is entailed by lifting that high... when you go that high and fit tires thatblook right (ie. 35) your tranny has to work alot harder to get off the line, and will shitt out of OD on even the slightest hills... afaik IFS is the same in all this, it s just your other X had such a small size change it maybe wasnt too noticible and was within the range of what is ok with the tranny etc

heres a good link Regearing Basics

try playing around with the calculator a bit if you find your gear ratio (located on the door jamb sticker on a 2nd gen) to see the dufferences in rpm at a certain speed
I run 33's on my truck with the stock 3.73's. My truck does great. Re-gearing is cool, but it can be pretty low on the priority list.
 



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Fix4Dirt

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iirc you tow your boat with it right? i agree, its not absolutely necessary, but puts additional strain on the tranny... youre using the a4ld from the no door right? depends, as from what i gather you carry the speed, not off the line speed, but looking at turkey bay, it may put more strain that youre driving, as its a bit slower, but OP could also go into 4lo, so i guess its not top priority, but imo the cost of the regear could be the same cost as the extra wear on tranny, depending on the use of the truck... and OP would be running 35s, how does yours do eith the new 35s?
 






Travisfab

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Yeah, I tow with it, but only a light bass boat or 5x8 single axle trailer. Last time I towed it had the 240K motor & trans. It now has the no door motor & trans which have 60k/20k on them. I already pulled the 35’s off & went back to 33x10.50’s for clearance issues. I’d like to go to 4.10’s at some point, but I have had years of fun & ripping up mountains on the freeway at 80mph with the stock gears.
 






PapaFresh

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iirc you tow your boat with it right? i agree, its not absolutely necessary, but puts additional strain on the tranny... youre using the a4ld from the no door right? depends, as from what i gather you carry the speed, not off the line speed, but looking at turkey bay, it may put more strain that youre driving, as its a bit slower, but OP could also go into 4lo, so i guess its not top priority, but imo the cost of the regear could be the same cost as the extra wear on tranny, depending on the use of the truck... and OP would be running 35s, how does yours do eith the new 35s?
I've changed my mind about the 6inch and 35s. I may just stick with a 4inch and 33s for now. I'm probably not going to do anything until after the summer so maybe I can save a little on gas by driving the stock V6 instead of customized v8
 






Fix4Dirt

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Yeah, I tow with it, but only a light bass boat or 5x8 single axle trailer. Last time I towed it had the 240K motor & trans. It now has the no door motor & trans which have 60k/20k on them. I already pulled the 35’s off & went back to 33x10.50’s for clearance issues. I’d like to go to 4.10’s at some point, but I have had years of fun & ripping up mountains on the freeway at 80mph with the stock gears.
alright! how was it power wise w the 373 and 35s?
 






Fix4Dirt

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I've changed my mind about the 6inch and 35s. I may just stick with a 4inch and 33s for now. I'm probably not going to do anything until after the summer so maybe I can save a little on gas by driving the stock V6 instead of customized v8
mileage wise, the v6 has more potential, but the v8 will probably outlast the rest of the vehicle, as those things never die!!! the ohv is good reliability wise, but its the a4ld... the 33s will be more friendly to the a4ld than the 35s... 4" and 33 sounds good, maybe depending on your gear ratio (what is it?), you could pull a junkyard 4.10 set and be good to go for the time being! ideally,, 4.56 will be the best, but thats $$$ that is unnecessary, so i would say 4.10 and 33 would be well matched... let us know your thoughts! and which lift kit are you going with when you go to 33s? if you pull a JY set, get a 4.10 LS and replace the clutch packs w/ the ford racing carbon fiber clutch pack, theyre really good for being a mostly stock LS! its not a locker, and never willl be, but its cheaper than most options... or go with a luckbox locker like pwoertrax no slip, etc..
 






Fix4Dirt

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to go to 4" iirc youll need extended radius arms which is a bit of $$ and also different coils... just my opinion, but 31s will be miles easier, as they just require shackle in rear and coil spacer... but if you want 33, extended radius arm, go SOA (will have a rake), or OME springs or comparable 2" lift spring, then a shackle, and new coils for front... and shocks to match... or you could go with a drop for everything (drop bracket for axle pivot&radius arm then the extended coils... up to you!
 






PapaFresh

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mileage wise, the v6 has more potential, but the v8 will probably outlast the rest of the vehicle, as those things never die!!! the ohv is good reliability wise, but its the a4ld... the 33s will be more friendly to the a4ld than the 35s... 4" and 33 sounds good, maybe depending on your gear ratio (what is it?), you could pull a junkyard 4.10 set and be good to go for the time being! ideally,, 4.56 will be the best, but thats $$$ that is unnecessary, so i would say 4.10 and 33 would be well matched... let us know your thoughts! and which lift kit are you going with when you go to 33s? if you pull a JY set, get a 4.10 LS and replace the clutch packs w/ the ford racing carbon fiber clutch pack, theyre really good for being a mostly stock LS! its not a locker, and never willl be, but its cheaper than most options... or go with a luckbox locker like pwoertrax no slip, etc..
i just saw this, sorry about that. I also just looked at my gear ratio, its 3.73. Would it just be worth it to do like a 2-3 inch lift and put 31/32s?
 






1sicbronconut

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My current 92' is regeared but a 2-3" lift will give you this look.

185311662_4378305002182518_3217080649544308395_n.jpg
 






Blue m&m

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31s run okay with a 2 inch lift and those gears. 33s will be a struggle and 35s won’t work unless you regear. An explorer with manual lock hubs and good 31” tires can go a lot of places, so I’d personally start there.
 






Fix4Dirt

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i just saw this, sorry about that. I also just looked at my gear ratio, its 3.73. Would it just be worth it to do like a 2-3 inch lift and put 31/32s?
right now i have 31s and 373s so its fine! not sure about 32s, but @DemonMudder has them, perhaps he can speak more about those!
 












PapaFresh

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31s run okay with a 2 inch lift and those gears. 33s will be a struggle and 35s won’t work unless you regear. An explorer with manual lock hubs and good 31” tires can go a lot of places, so I’d personally start there
I have an electronic switch for 4wheel drive. I've heard there is some kind of conversion to manual hubs. Is it worth it?
 






Fix4Dirt

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Blue m&m

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I have an electronic switch for 4wheel drive. I've heard there is some kind of conversion to manual hubs. Is it worth it?
The manual hubs won’t replace the electric switch, just the auto hubs, which are notoriously unreliable. Once you lock in the hubs, you still use the switch to go in and out of 4x4. You can put in a manual transfer case (it’s on my list) but don’t need it to reliably off-road so long as your shift motor is good.
 






Fix4Dirt

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I have an electronic switch for 4wheel drive. I've heard there is some kind of conversion to manual hubs. Is it worth it?
4wd has no bearing on hubs. imo manual hubs are worth it for reliability, as long as you can occasioanlly get out of the truck to lock or unlock hubs. (my advice, lock before you hit the trail, dont lock em once youre stuck) if you want you could go to the bw1354M if you want to eliminate the elctronic portion, but either way (imo) not a huge improvement, as worst comes to worst you can turn shift motor with some grips
 






PapaFresh

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4wd has no bearing on hubs. imo manual hubs are worth it for reliability, as long as you can occasioanlly get out of the truck to lock or unlock hubs. (my advice, lock before you hit the trail, dont lock em once youre stuck) if you want you could go to the bw1354M if you want to eliminate the elctronic portion, but either way (imo) not a huge improvement, as worst comes to worst you can turn shift motor with some grips
Where is the shift motor located? Not sure if my 4x4 works. The light doesn't come on but I haven't tested it yet
 






Fix4Dirt

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Where is the shift motor located? Not sure if my 4x4 works. The light doesn't come on but I haven't tested it yet
its located on the transfer case, iirc the driver side? not entirely sure, but its connected to tcase, so not too much effort to find
 






venom97

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Not a great pic but this is a 4" ranger lift, used only the front with 1" washer spacer under the front coils. For the rear, just a soa conversation. Cheap 4" kit from national tire and wheel...

20220510_065051.jpg
 



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Fix4Dirt

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Not a great pic but this is a 4" ranger lift, used only the front with 1" washer spacer under the front coils. For the rear, just a soa conversation. Cheap 4" kit from national tire and wheel...

View attachment 429513
which size tires are those? guessing 33s
 






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