$725 to replace fuel pump?

[budwich]

Its pretty hard to guess at the "just died" cause.... hence the checks before you "touch" anything. Further, MAKE SURE the you check the tank for "junk".... there have been "misguided DIY'ers" that pull the pump, pop in a new one and their problem only fixes "temporarily" cause of "debris" in the tank that finds its way into the pump "stocking".

 

[bullnerd]

My truck has 140k on it and the fuel sock looks brand new,not a spec of debris on it.Also the inside of the tank is very clean and new looking.

 

[bullnerd]

Well i dismantled my fuel pump and was going to post the pics here so everyone could see the inside of a pump but i am not an "elite" explorer so that wont be happening.

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could upload the pictures to a site like Photobucket, and link them here.

 

[bullnerd]

My phototbucket attempt no.1...(dead link)

 

[bullnerd]

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Looking into the housing at the brushes,one is damaged from me beating on it,one has been removed.

 

[bullnerd]

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This has 140k on it.

 

[bullnerd]

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In the order it came apart.

 

[ALARMIST]

Nice Pics, hard to tell- do / did the brushes want to stay down in the recessed guides, or was there some spring tension remaining.

While some might go further, I think it's a safe bet to change at around that
mileage if there is an excuse to go near it.
( not that you were putting that one back in- lol)

 

[bullnerd]

Yeah ,the brushes were still sticking out and seemed to be functioning when i took it apart.I hit the one with something and it got stuck in.

 

[ALARMIST]

since you have it apart, you could check the sections of the motor armature
for continuity and shorts, to see if it has a dead spot. ( ohm meter or battery and bulb, test light) I think some years regulate fuel pressure by controling
fuel pump power.
Also the power to run the pump has been flowing thru the same relay contacts for the same 100,000 + miles, a little pitting or oxidation on the contact face could result in no run.
The fuel pump relay is usually the same as some others,(possibly unused)
or ones you can swap with. fog lamps, trailer lights, whatever - see what else
is that style. (you can cut the relay open next- lol)

 

[bullnerd]

Thats funny i was planning on changing the relay(s) and the fuel filter and dissect the old ones.

I guess i could take a look at the rotor but not until the truck is running again.

 

[bullnerd]

Finally got my new pump from rock auto,took about six days.I ordered a Delphi,i've had good luck with thier stuff on my buick.The pump says walbro on it so thats good news i guess ,i think they make good stuff.The new pump has metal "gears" as opposed to the stock ones plastic "rotor".It also came with a nice adapter pigtail ,so no splicing of wires, it plugged right in.Oh,and its made in USA.

OK..now lets see if i can remember how to post pics.



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[bullnerd]

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[bullnerd]

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[bullnerd]

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You can kind of see the metal internals in this pic.

 

[williams.cory]

So the X is up and running like new then? Sweet

 

[bullnerd]

So the X is up and running like new then? Sweet

Not yet!Hopefully this weekend.

 

[bullnerd]

Put the fuel pump back in last night,about 2 hrs.I hooked 12v up while the tank was still out and it primed instantly.I also replaced the filter.(pics to follow)
Truck started right up no hesitation, no leaks, good fuel pressure.

So i did the sea foam and a new pvc valve.I think i broke or pulled a connection behind the intake while changing the pcv valve.The engine idles smooth but when i go to do a slow turn while idling or very low throttle, the engine starts to kinda chug.Dont know what i''ll do now its so hard to see back there.

Heres a couple pics of a fuel filter with 138k(i think) on it.It looked like mud poured out when i took it out.

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[BrooklynBay]

I think that it might be a good idea to use some fuel injector cleaner after looking at the picture of that gas filter. It looks like it's full of oil.