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8" Skyjacker Lift for '92 Ranger on a '92 Ex???
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Petersongang4
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- City, State
- Yakima, WA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '92 XLT E.B.
how did you align your bumpers with a 4" body lift? custom brackets and is it pretty easy? your ex is exactly what i am doing only 4 door
RustySJohnson
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- July 11, 2011
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- City, State
- Indianapolis, Indiana
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '94 Limited
8" Skyjacker lift, I just did it
I purchased a used 8" Skyjacker lift made for a Ranger and installed on my 1994 Explorer to replace the prior 4" Trailmaster lift of the same drop bracket type. The previous owner had it installed on a 91 Explorer whom converted to SAS. There you go, 91-94, that covers the spread, I can confirm it fits, and well.
> Alignment. It's alignable with the adjustable offset upper ball joint camber/caster bushings, and as long as it remains static. The Castor angle is pushed (-) because the radius arm drop brackets are shorter than the pivot arm brackets, it's to reduce the front driveshaft U-joint angles much the same way you'd angle the rearend upward toward the tranny when lifting, but when you do this to the TTB front end, the added (-) castor messes up the straight line tracking.
:thumbdwn:> Steering. To say it's wacked is accurate, it's primarily the bump steer. It's dangerous with the factory setup plus the FA600 drop pitman arm and 1.25" spacers as shown. What you're looking at is essentially a rolling chasis till the steering's addressed. I was able to drive it a mile down the road to storage, but it feels like someone's jerking the wheel side to side if there's any movement, it tracks fine as long as you don't turn the wheel, are on level pavement, and don't hit any bumps. The well known issues with the factory steering are amplified by the extended traction beam travel and the dreaded inverted "Y" in the tie rod linkages. The steering geometry's toast, the tow moves when the traction bars move up and down. Idealy, the tie rods should look like an inverted "T". Even though I had more of a "Y" with the previous 4" lift, it was driveable and predictable, a little squirelly but manageable. Now, the steering has a mind of it's own. Nose down, right wheel points out a little and left wheel points out a lot. Nose up, like when accelerating, same thing but the wheels point in at different rates. The aforementioned added (-) castor increased steering effort, and reduced the camber angle when the wheels are turned.
**
**To solve all of this, I'm working on a custom steering system for it. ****
TTB Steering Mod - build thread
> Driveshafts, I was able to use the stock but they are maxed out as far as length, all I can say is works. There's a fierce vibration from the ujoints at certain RPM's, It stops if I load down the rear with weight and lower it a bit. I'm going to install a double Cardan shaft from a '96 Sport to solve it. The previous kit owner claimed to have used the stock as well, and he did wheel his. I haven't measured the length of the splines making contact, I can't imagine it's ideal. I don't have any drive time on it to identify any potential problems, and I haven't tested it under any flexing conditions, so I can't give any helpful advice.
:rangertan:> Shocks I mounted Rancho RS5012 in the Front, with the lower eyelet sleeve removed and the top mount fit flawlessly in the factory stem mount position. The shocks are capable of much more extended flex than necessary. I did this anticipating I would do the F250 front shock mount mod. For the rear, I used RS5234, mounted upside down to clear the sway bar, the jury's still out if this is OK to mount inversed, the front shocks had the text "this side down" stamped explicitly on them, but the rear did not. I transferred the t-bars from the previous shocks to by pressing them out with a vice, WD40, and a large socket . :thumbdwn:> Tires Nitto Terra Grappler 285/50R20 (31.5"),@ 42 PSI. These fit with no lift with light rubbing.
> Wheels Dropstars luxury wheels 20X8.5", +30 offset and 1.25" spacers.
> Sway Bars Yes, front and back. Rear, extended links 5.5" with steel rods, it worked with the 4" and 8" lifts. Front, first generation Ranger I used because it was free, only required drilling 4 holes, and moved it to a more convenient location.
Mystery anti-swaybar, can somebody ID this?
:rangergreen:> Cost
Used Kit: $300
Shocks: $200
Steering Mod : $600
Alignment: $Free DIY
35" Tires $ Free, I have connections.
Rear F150 AAL, boneyard: $30
Driveshafts: $16 from boneyard + $100 to get it lengthened
Brake lines: $40
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Grand Total: $1286
----------------------------------------------------------------------
:rangertan:> Flex TBD, I will update. Check back again.
:rangertan:> Gremlins I assume the same drop bracket issue with punching a hole in the front gearbox is going to be a problem. I have not installed one, but just a visual inspection indicates the need for one on the driver's side.
:rangertan:> Install time Alone, I started at 10:30am and stopped at 12:30am, approx 14 hours for just the brackets and rear lift installation. No real breaks for meals, and I ate with dirty hands. This included a trip to the local bone yard to remove the rear leaf springs from a '96 F150. This does not include, alignment, or shock installation, Add 3 hours for that.The running total is approx 19 hours.
:rangertan:Use> I make it no big secret that I don't wheel it. It's not that I don't want to, it's just I don't live in an area where I get the opportunity, and don't have the time to go out of my way to do it. Not what I use it for yet. It's my winter-beater, some might call it a road queen. That's why I gave it the name "Fur Coat", it's only used to get me through the winter in style. The lift was merely an opportunity I exploited, and only by coincidence I found 2 used kits in 3 months. It's more of a "My truck is taller than your truck" kind of reasoning. That, and I build and drive cars with personality and distinction. There's nothing more I despise than seeing someone else with a vehicle identical to mine. It's my opinion, this kit does not lend itself well to off-roading judging from the mechanical horror stories found in this forum and I'm no expert, but it doesn't take genius to know the drop brackets shouldn't give when sitting idle and turning the wheels back and fourth. Before I take it off road, and I do intend some light duty wheeling, I intend to augment the brackets with some extra strength, but more than just gussets.
Overall, I think it looks good, with the obvious exception of the need for larger tires, but priorities are the steering. If it fits in my garage/storage, that's fine by me for now. My wife thinks I'm nuts, and just shakes her head in disgust. My neighbor told me I'm the coolest hilbilly he knows. Honestly, I think they're both right.
The rear is lifted with SOA with F150 AAL leaf springs.
I purchased a used 8" Skyjacker lift made for a Ranger and installed on my 1994 Explorer to replace the prior 4" Trailmaster lift of the same drop bracket type. The previous owner had it installed on a 91 Explorer whom converted to SAS. There you go, 91-94, that covers the spread, I can confirm it fits, and well.
> Alignment. It's alignable with the adjustable offset upper ball joint camber/caster bushings, and as long as it remains static. The Castor angle is pushed (-) because the radius arm drop brackets are shorter than the pivot arm brackets, it's to reduce the front driveshaft U-joint angles much the same way you'd angle the rearend upward toward the tranny when lifting, but when you do this to the TTB front end, the added (-) castor messes up the straight line tracking.:thumbdwn:> Steering. To say it's wacked is accurate, it's primarily the bump steer. It's dangerous with the factory setup plus the FA600 drop pitman arm and 1.25" spacers as shown. What you're looking at is essentially a rolling chasis till the steering's addressed. I was able to drive it a mile down the road to storage, but it feels like someone's jerking the wheel side to side if there's any movement, it tracks fine as long as you don't turn the wheel, are on level pavement, and don't hit any bumps. The well known issues with the factory steering are amplified by the extended traction beam travel and the dreaded inverted "Y" in the tie rod linkages. The steering geometry's toast, the tow moves when the traction bars move up and down. Idealy, the tie rods should look like an inverted "T". Even though I had more of a "Y" with the previous 4" lift, it was driveable and predictable, a little squirelly but manageable. Now, the steering has a mind of it's own. Nose down, right wheel points out a little and left wheel points out a lot. Nose up, like when accelerating, same thing but the wheels point in at different rates. The aforementioned added (-) castor increased steering effort, and reduced the camber angle when the wheels are turned.
**
**To solve all of this, I'm working on a custom steering system for it. ****TTB Steering Mod - build thread
> Driveshafts, I was able to use the stock but they are maxed out as far as length, all I can say is works. There's a fierce vibration from the ujoints at certain RPM's, It stops if I load down the rear with weight and lower it a bit. I'm going to install a double Cardan shaft from a '96 Sport to solve it. The previous kit owner claimed to have used the stock as well, and he did wheel his. I haven't measured the length of the splines making contact, I can't imagine it's ideal. I don't have any drive time on it to identify any potential problems, and I haven't tested it under any flexing conditions, so I can't give any helpful advice.:rangertan:> Shocks I mounted Rancho RS5012 in the Front, with the lower eyelet sleeve removed and the top mount fit flawlessly in the factory stem mount position. The shocks are capable of much more extended flex than necessary. I did this anticipating I would do the F250 front shock mount mod. For the rear, I used RS5234, mounted upside down to clear the sway bar, the jury's still out if this is OK to mount inversed, the front shocks had the text "this side down" stamped explicitly on them, but the rear did not. I transferred the t-bars from the previous shocks to by pressing them out with a vice, WD40, and a large socket . :thumbdwn:> Tires Nitto Terra Grappler 285/50R20 (31.5"),@ 42 PSI. These fit with no lift with light rubbing.
> Wheels Dropstars luxury wheels 20X8.5", +30 offset and 1.25" spacers.
> Sway Bars Yes, front and back. Rear, extended links 5.5" with steel rods, it worked with the 4" and 8" lifts. Front, first generation Ranger I used because it was free, only required drilling 4 holes, and moved it to a more convenient location.Mystery anti-swaybar, can somebody ID this?
:rangergreen:> Cost
Used Kit: $300
Shocks: $200
Steering Mod : $600
Alignment: $Free DIY
35" Tires $ Free, I have connections.
Rear F150 AAL, boneyard: $30
Driveshafts: $16 from boneyard + $100 to get it lengthened
Brake lines: $40
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Grand Total: $1286
----------------------------------------------------------------------
:rangertan:> Flex TBD, I will update. Check back again.
:rangertan:> Gremlins I assume the same drop bracket issue with punching a hole in the front gearbox is going to be a problem. I have not installed one, but just a visual inspection indicates the need for one on the driver's side.
:rangertan:> Install time Alone, I started at 10:30am and stopped at 12:30am, approx 14 hours for just the brackets and rear lift installation. No real breaks for meals, and I ate with dirty hands. This included a trip to the local bone yard to remove the rear leaf springs from a '96 F150. This does not include, alignment, or shock installation, Add 3 hours for that.The running total is approx 19 hours.
:rangertan:Use> I make it no big secret that I don't wheel it. It's not that I don't want to, it's just I don't live in an area where I get the opportunity, and don't have the time to go out of my way to do it. Not what I use it for yet. It's my winter-beater, some might call it a road queen. That's why I gave it the name "Fur Coat", it's only used to get me through the winter in style. The lift was merely an opportunity I exploited, and only by coincidence I found 2 used kits in 3 months. It's more of a "My truck is taller than your truck" kind of reasoning. That, and I build and drive cars with personality and distinction. There's nothing more I despise than seeing someone else with a vehicle identical to mine. It's my opinion, this kit does not lend itself well to off-roading judging from the mechanical horror stories found in this forum and I'm no expert, but it doesn't take genius to know the drop brackets shouldn't give when sitting idle and turning the wheels back and fourth. Before I take it off road, and I do intend some light duty wheeling, I intend to augment the brackets with some extra strength, but more than just gussets.
Overall, I think it looks good, with the obvious exception of the need for larger tires, but priorities are the steering. If it fits in my garage/storage, that's fine by me for now. My wife thinks I'm nuts, and just shakes her head in disgust. My neighbor told me I'm the coolest hilbilly he knows. Honestly, I think they're both right.
The rear is lifted with SOA with F150 AAL leaf springs.
Johnny benyo
New Member
- Joined
- December 31, 2020
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- 1
- Reaction score
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- City, State
- Santa Clara
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2006 Dodge Magnum
I put the 8" super lift for a ranger on my 93 explorer, along with a 2"body lift, 35" tire and 15xx12 Alcoa wheels. The 4.0 has plenty of power but needed more as far as gears and hubs. The rear part of this lift will take some work also. The ranger doesn't have a sway bar so you need to modify that. Also I had the rear leaf springs arched at a spring shop for more hight and added strength. The ranger kit comes with blocks and sagged in the rear. Doesn't do much as far as rock crawling, but that baby boogied in the sand with the big tires and no weight. All and all it was definitely a head turner.
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