86 Ranger 2.3 EFI gas RELAY SWITCH PROBLEMS

[bozo4ford]

Cut to the chase.....
…..…..In looking at the new switch bottom side, with lock tabs on the bottom, the two smaller spades are top, and middle, and the bottom spade is larger.

On the Ford OE pigtail switch I’m replacing, this has the same female plug-ins as my NEW SWITCH, so even though the harness wire coming off the pig-tail harness has that BIG FAT STRIPED WIRE going into the Middle hole, does this only mean this spade gets more power to this smaller middle tab, and NOT to the larger tab on the bottom?

My NEW pig-tail switch has the larger BIG FAT STRIPED WIRE coming out of the bottom female connector. Some say match exactly to what’s already there…wire to wire, and others say to match the big fat wire to that other big fat wire, that’s why as much time this has all taken, I am getting pretty confused for something that seems so simple! I’d hate very much to cross wire and cause additional problems.

____________________________________________________

I ordered a pig tail female connector for the switch which is either for the fuel pump, or the other relay, maybe the computer relay (the corroded looking switch pictured above) this original 4 wire pig tail, the TOP of this switch has numbers like this.... FORD'S NUMBERS are # E93B 2C013 BUT...... I need the FEMALE counterpart with Pig tails.

(1) The Fuel pump relay switch. I have no idea which is which.
(2) The EEC, or ECC relay switch.....Computer relay?
(3) Blower fan switch, does not work anymore, had a fire in the blower box.

OK. I thought I was already to GO! I bought a fuel replay female 4-wire pig tail (or maybe it’s just a electrical connector from Pep Boys # PT5685) Looking at this NEW box relay with the lock tabs on the bottom,

The NEW wire configuration has this-
On the right side, there are three wires coming down,

Top right - solid BROWN,
Middle Bottom -solid Red.
Bottom – bigger orange with Stripe green
and Left bottom - One YELLOW (going opposite direction than the other three)

The OLD wire configuration has this-
Top right - solid Black
Middle - Fat Red with Green Stripe
Bottom - solid Red.
and Left bottom - One YELLOW (going opposite direction than the other three)

Question? Do I match old wire locations with new wire locations, switch to switch, or do I match the fatter, bigger striped wire with the same, even though they are not in the same location on the switch?

Another (silly and maybe stupid question) which switch is which? Both relay switches look the same, but one is for the fuel pump relay, and the other i think is for a computer ECC, or EEC relay. (fender well pass. side near the idle control valve on the air filter) which relay is the fuel filter, and the other is the ECC or EEC relay? They both seem to have only four spade males, three going one direction, and the fourth going the other.

The UNKNOWN SWITCH IN THE PHOTO, IS MY BLOWER FAN MOTOR. Sorry.
I did a Google, and put those FORD numbers in, and found many with -AB, -AA, -BB at the very end. Is there a Ford cross reference website to after market electrical connectors, or anything else Ford to buy aftermarkert? Thank you for any and all replies! Happy Weekend!

 

[rickybobby]

On the relay there is usually a schematic, verify that they match, if not return the one you bought and get the right one

 

[bozo4ford]

1986 EFI 2.3 Relays, connectors and pigtails?

Hey and thanks..No rickybobby, no schematics.



MAY 31, 2012
1986 / 2.3 / EFI / GAS / 140CID / Standard cab / 5-sp / 4-Cyl.

First of all, those numbers appearing in the top photo # E93b-2C013, Ford tells me this part is actually an ANTI-LOCK RELAY, which is weird, since I don't have ABS on this year! Oddly enough, this part is the TOP Relay for my existing ECM corroded relay...so sorry I'm so confused by all these ford obsolete parts and cross reference after market nonsensical relay parts that may or may not work in my truck.

This is what I’ve found. After talking with a Ford dealership parts dept.,
They gave me the reference numbers for
(1) Fuel Pump relay - F1HZ9345A
(2) EEC relay - E4TZ12A646A

THESE ARE ONLY THE TOP MALE RELAYS, BUT I NEED THE BOTTOM HARNESS 4-SPADE WIRING THAT COMES OFF THE WIRING HARNESS THAT IS LOCATED ALONG THE PASS. FENDER WELL.

Autozone’s numbers for Fuel pump relay - #20393, and
EEC, which came back as ECM, or Powertrain Control – #19841
These are relays, and what I need are the harness pigtails, the 4-wire females that these top snap-in “relays” plug into. I’ve tried a few area auto wrecking places and they don’t have them at all.

Does anyone know where to find either the EEC, (or ECM) or Fuel Pump relay 4-wire female PIGTAIL, that comes off the bundled wiring harness from this 1986 year, or is my only hope is some wrecking yard when they come in?

If I do find them at a wrecking, or parts yard, I know I’ll probably have to snip them off myself and solder together to the top male wire relays, but trying to clean this existing corroded part is a waste of time, and might go bad anytime in the near future anyway.

…….So I called O’Reilly auto parts.
FUEL PUMP RELAY Search for my year and got #R647, but uses BWD connector PT5613, I looked that up and saw it was a 5-white wire connector for Rangers 1990-1992. I looked up my newly bought pigtail BWD - PT5685, and the guy came back with no connector match.

ECM (Engine control module) R3080 Relay, but also, no pigtail connector counterpart.

So now, at least I have those two ford reference numbers, YEAH! I need to locate the correct 4 wire harness pigtail connectors, and top relays, for both the FUEL PUMP RELAY and ECM RELAY. (for future reference) …..and maybe a electrical diagram to where each color coded wire and gauge size connects into the correct spade or tab position.

 

[rickybobby]

my suggestion is to buy female spade connectors and correct size wiring and wire the new relay yourself without a female connector end, just have the old relay and female connector handy for reference of where which wire goes on the new relay. Another option is to re-pin the connector you already have if it will plug in to the correct relay that references the ford PN's that you now have

 

[bozo4ford]

1986 Ford ranger / 4 Cyl. / 2.3 / EFI / Manual 5-Speed // Original owner
rickybobby~

buy female spade connectors and correct size wiring and wire the new relay yourself without a female connector end, just have the old relay and female connector handy for reference of where which wire goes on the new relay.

EEC relay
Yellow - from fusible link - power into relay
Red - switch3ed power out to all the loads
red/lt grn - from ignition switch to relay winding
blk/lt grn - common ground with computer/HEGO/battery Neg

This is GREAT, but I still don't know what wires go where. I realize this sounds very academic and at times, childish, but the main problem I'm having is the two fat striped wires going into different switches and pigtail, from the original brown ECM female harness into the new pigtal relay top switch.

Do you think that's easier than connecting.soldering the existing 4 wires from the old brown female to the pigtail? I think it's easier if someone can just tell me which wires go where from the harness wires. I concur....I am clueless.


Hey all!
Well, finally an update.
I took it in to the shop to have them take a look at it. I almost did not make to him in morning traffic, I had to continue to keep the RPMs up, before it had a chance to die out. It must have shut down about five times on my way there. So lucky for me this problem happen on the way to, and while he drove it for a test drive.

Since I’ve never replaced the fuel pump on this 26 year old ranger, I thought it best to do so now. I knew it might not fix my problem, but have to start somewhere. They also removed, and cleaned the Air Idle control (attached to the air filter box) I had previously done this about three months ago. Another thing he did was to increase the idle at the Throttle linkage. They found metal bits in the fuel filter which he suggested that the fuel pump was breaking down.

He test drove it again and said it was running with a little more power. I agreed. BUT now it’s still intermittent and some days it just dogs out with no power.

I did buy a fuel pressure regulator from autozone ($20.00) but have not put that in yet, thinking this may also not fix the problem. Besides, I don’t have that special handy-dandy allen tool to get back at the third screw closest to the injector fuel rod. I can remove the two fronts, but it’s a bear trying to get clearance to un-loosen that back screw. I can use the allen tool, but I can only move a few micrometers at a time, which would take quite a while.

So regardless of this recent work being done, this truck still wants to conk out now and then, and I don’t have a clue what causing it.

Another thing I still need help with, if someone who presently has a 1986 2.3 gas ranger, and can find the time to remove the plastic cover housing over the relays on the passenger side fender wall, look at the harness that come into the (Female) BROWN RELAY from the wire bundle.

(ECM Pigtail connector coming from the wire bundle harness CONNECTS to a Black Top, Whitish/Grey bottom SWITCH RELAYS – Male spades)

I have been getting conflicting messages as to how to connect the pigtail to the new 4 wire switch. What I am seeing now is the big striped wire is going into the middle or second position on the brown relay BUT the new relay had it’s big striped wire going into the bottom or third position on that 3 spade row.

(BROWN IS ECM RELAY, AND GREEN WAS USED FOR FUEL RELAY …There should only be FOUR wires each on both relays)
I have photos attached in previous posts. The truck starts, so this relay is not the problem, but it’s so corroded, I feel as I should replace it anyway.

Thanks!