91-94X Battery Cables

[nitro71]

Putting new terminals on your cables is easy guys. Disconnect them both. Cut the cable off near the old terminal. Skin the insulation back. Spray some permatex anti corrosion on the wires. Clamp em in. Clean the bat terminals. Spray em and reconnect. I recommend wearing safety glasses and don't reconnect right after charging due to hydrogen build up. Bats can blow up when you reconnect or disconnect and it sparks.

 

[CDW6212R]

Those are good prices for a stock type of cable, $38 and $26.

Never cut the old ends off of battery cables. Either take care of the OEM cables and use them properly, or replace them entirely.

Those bolt on battery cable ends are for temporary use only, like a temporary spare. Those will corrode in the cable connection over time, much much faster than a proper cable end. About half of all starting problems of vehicles with those poor ends are due to the end itself not conducting electricity. Don't do it, those are temporary repairs, do the job right.

 

[Tbars4]

...So is it the same part number as posted in this thread???..:scratch:

 

[nitro71]

I can't believe that putting new ends on your cables is bad. I'm a electrician and you strip and put wires under terminals all the time. I would use a anti corrosion agent such as the one Permatex has though.

 

[CDW6212R]

The automotive environment around a car and under the hood is far different from any other application. The contact area of those temporary cable ends are not up to constant duty in a vehicle. If tightened properly they may last for years, but many only go for months before there is some corrosion in there interfering with contact.

I wish they did work better and longer, I don't want to replace my entire cable of my Lincoln right now. I could do it I guess, knowing that I'd change it later. But I like to avoid parts like that, I'm about to have a 59" cable made for my car once I know what the starter end looks like. It's a good tool, but don't rely on it full time, avoid them if you can.

 

[Tbars4]

...Your electrical for home or commercial applications are weather proof and are not subjected to road elements as in oil, grease, grime, dust, rock salt, etc...

...The corrosion and/or shorts, will be starting at the splices as rapid change of heat and cold also play a factor...

 

[nitro71]

But look at how Ford right from the factory lugs your negative to the frame. That is a point of entry for cable corrosion.

Personally I have no problem with a cable that has a well applied anti-corrosion agent on the cables being landed under those terminal lugs. You could also apply no-lox as sold at home depot or lowes to get a more substantial seal at the cable end.

I do agree that factory cables are better but when you own a 93 Explorer money is a issue or you wouldn't be driving it. $3 at Schucks and I have new cable ends.

 

[nitro71]

Check your cable when you cut it back. If you see green oxidation or black then the cable is probably bad. If you see copper it's probably good. Except for that spot where Ford bonds to your frame.. That sucks and I'd recommend a solid cable and then make your own jumper to the frame.

 

[CDW6212R]

The other kinds of ends are all crimped on better than the narrow pinched area under those two bolts. I don't know every difference of them, but I have seen a bunch and read of a lot who discovered the cables full of green corrosion, after a no start condition. That's the first thing to ask about when a vehicle has a problem, and the battery is supposedly good.

 

[Tbars4]

...Nitro71...I think your thoughts about the cables and splicing has been expressed well and in depth by you in your several post in this thread...

...I just post this info for others to use at their discretion from my years of experience with Ford trucks...If you would like to start your own Q & A discussion thread about this subject, or a "How To on making cables" please feel free to do so..Please post a link to your thread here when you do...

 

[nitro71]

LOL, it's all good, just trying to save my fellow X'rs some coin $$ .

I do feel that new cables are better.

No doubt but if your short on dough and the copper isn't corroded, why not put new terms on em.

I'm much more concerned about people not using safetly goggles and understanding the hazards of connecting and disconnecting batteries than whether they put new terms on.

 

[jij0226]

yeah it was the same part number. someone just slipped me the wrong cable is all. I couldn't just replace the terminals my original pos and neg were corroded past that.

 

[Tbars4]

...Thanks for letting us know that the P/N's are still correct...

 

[Tbars4]

...bumpin for the new guys...

 

[Tbars4]

...Bumpin for the cause...

 

[tjsxplodr]

Where's the best spot to buy these?

 

[Tbars4]

...At your local NAPA store...Use the part numbers in post #1...

 

[tjsxplodr]

Duh lol. Is NAPA the best priced? I'm on a freakin tight budget.

 

[Tbars4]

...They were the best price for identical to stock cables I could find.

..If you read thru this thread you have other options...I know it took me quite a while to find ones I was happy with and these are them..

 

[tjsxplodr]

Ok sounds good! Thanks again.