Roadrunner777
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- February 5, 2011
- Messages
- 2,044
- Reaction score
- 346
- City, State
- Bemidji, MN
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 94 4x4 Sport 88k
You know, let's just go to a diagnostic test and not worry about the fuse link. It may very well have been removed and spliced.
I'm going to go old-school. Run the vehicle with everything turned on. Observe things like headlights, listen for the blower speed, the timing of the turn signal blinker, windshield wiper speed. Now, increase engine speed from idle to 1,500 RPM. If there is any change, brighter headlights, faster blower, wipers, etc... then your charging system is working.
If that is inconclusive, or you want a more technical test, then I'd ask you to take the following measurements:
1. Battery voltage with key in off position.
2. Battery voltage with key in on position, engine not running, all accessories off.
3. Battery voltage with key in on position, engine not running, all accessories on.
4. Battery voltage with engine running, all accessories off.
5. Battery voltage with engine running, all accessories on.
Then, I want you to take these same measurements at the alternator instead of the battery, where the black/orange wire connects.
So, a total of 10 measurements. If you can give me these, I can give you some definite answers.
Or... you can run the truck to a shop or car parts store and have them do charging system test. So places around me do this for free, they just connect a load device to the battery posts and it tells them what's wrong. A repair shop should do this for their minimum shop fee.
Pulleys
I guess you understand the theory. A smaller alternator pulley will drive the alternator faster at any given engine speed, and you would like the alternator a little further into it's power range at idle. Looking at the chart I posted, the 95A alternator makes about 60 amps at 900 RPM. Idle is really more like 700 RPM, so at idle, it's making even less than 60A. The 130A alternator is a little better, but not much. In fact, it falls off faster at low RPMs. So, the real trick is to make the alternator spin faster at idle and get it in it's better power range.
Here's the pulley: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/asp-520004
You can shop around with the specs on that pulley for a cheaper source... I think I saw one like this for $5 less on Ebay once, but that was 10 years ago.
A smaller pulley 'uses' less belt. It reduces the amount of belt needed to make the turn around the pulley and the tensioner does not have enough travel to make up for that. So, you need a slightly shorter belt. The belt I am using is a Gates K060864. If you do this, your parts people can cross-reference that to whatever they stock.
But, I want to be very clear about something: At the time I decided to do this, I was driving my Explorer daily, often at temps of -30 degrees F (northern Minnesota) early in the morning before the snow plows started work. Often this was in the middle of snowstorms, on secondary roads with no traffic. So, this was a big deal to me and I wanted my charging system to be as good as possible without regard for cost. The pulley is about $42, and they will ship to Canada. There charge to ship small orders like this, and I guess there may be import taxes and whatnot. The belt you can get locally, I suppose for about $15. So, you're into it for $60. I went further and replaced my 95A alternator with a 130A version when my old alternator failed. The dimensions do not change from 95A to 130A, so the pulley and belt work on both. Everything worked better with the pulley belt upgrade and better still with the 130A added on top of that. I'm not saying angels sang and rainbows appeared, but it worked noticeably better. The smaller pulley deal is often used on police cars and ambulances because of their extra electrical load... that's how I started down this road.
I'm in the middle of a particularly nasty in-tank fuel pump replacement and two brake jobs. So if you post something, it may be awhile before I reply. I try to check in daily. Good Luck!
I'm going to go old-school. Run the vehicle with everything turned on. Observe things like headlights, listen for the blower speed, the timing of the turn signal blinker, windshield wiper speed. Now, increase engine speed from idle to 1,500 RPM. If there is any change, brighter headlights, faster blower, wipers, etc... then your charging system is working.
If that is inconclusive, or you want a more technical test, then I'd ask you to take the following measurements:
1. Battery voltage with key in off position.
2. Battery voltage with key in on position, engine not running, all accessories off.
3. Battery voltage with key in on position, engine not running, all accessories on.
4. Battery voltage with engine running, all accessories off.
5. Battery voltage with engine running, all accessories on.
Then, I want you to take these same measurements at the alternator instead of the battery, where the black/orange wire connects.
So, a total of 10 measurements. If you can give me these, I can give you some definite answers.
Or... you can run the truck to a shop or car parts store and have them do charging system test. So places around me do this for free, they just connect a load device to the battery posts and it tells them what's wrong. A repair shop should do this for their minimum shop fee.
Pulleys
I guess you understand the theory. A smaller alternator pulley will drive the alternator faster at any given engine speed, and you would like the alternator a little further into it's power range at idle. Looking at the chart I posted, the 95A alternator makes about 60 amps at 900 RPM. Idle is really more like 700 RPM, so at idle, it's making even less than 60A. The 130A alternator is a little better, but not much. In fact, it falls off faster at low RPMs. So, the real trick is to make the alternator spin faster at idle and get it in it's better power range.
Here's the pulley: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/asp-520004
You can shop around with the specs on that pulley for a cheaper source... I think I saw one like this for $5 less on Ebay once, but that was 10 years ago.
A smaller pulley 'uses' less belt. It reduces the amount of belt needed to make the turn around the pulley and the tensioner does not have enough travel to make up for that. So, you need a slightly shorter belt. The belt I am using is a Gates K060864. If you do this, your parts people can cross-reference that to whatever they stock.
But, I want to be very clear about something: At the time I decided to do this, I was driving my Explorer daily, often at temps of -30 degrees F (northern Minnesota) early in the morning before the snow plows started work. Often this was in the middle of snowstorms, on secondary roads with no traffic. So, this was a big deal to me and I wanted my charging system to be as good as possible without regard for cost. The pulley is about $42, and they will ship to Canada. There charge to ship small orders like this, and I guess there may be import taxes and whatnot. The belt you can get locally, I suppose for about $15. So, you're into it for $60. I went further and replaced my 95A alternator with a 130A version when my old alternator failed. The dimensions do not change from 95A to 130A, so the pulley and belt work on both. Everything worked better with the pulley belt upgrade and better still with the 130A added on top of that. I'm not saying angels sang and rainbows appeared, but it worked noticeably better. The smaller pulley deal is often used on police cars and ambulances because of their extra electrical load... that's how I started down this road.
I'm in the middle of a particularly nasty in-tank fuel pump replacement and two brake jobs. So if you post something, it may be awhile before I reply. I try to check in daily. Good Luck!
