91 X Sway & Transfer Q's | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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91 X Sway & Transfer Q's

Iceking007

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Joined
February 7, 2008
Messages
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City, State
Edmonton, Alberta
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Ford Explorer Sport
Hay guys been a while, just wondering what you guys are running for heavy duty swaybars... gonna be going with Camburg 5" Lift and 33's want something that will keep her in control and with quick disconnects for the trail thank you.

Also looking for some Beefy goodies for the stock manual Transfercase, alocal ford mechanic said its a week link as soon as I rubber up he says to purchase every goody I can to through in it so she holds. Anything I can get let me know let me know what you guys have and so on Thank you.

Also just currious on numbers... is there a resource on the net for stock HP Tourque Gearing Diff all that so I know what I have and what I am starting with so I can understand what I want in the future thanks guys!
 



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Ummm I think explorerexpress makes a beefier swaybar but as for the discos your on your own on that one a.k.a. homemade.

I think he meant the transmission is a weak link as it is sure to break before the t-case ever will, which as long as you keep fresh clean fluid in it it will last and last.
 






ok thanks I can look into that I posted also in Trannies and T-Cases Blog or what ever I found some numbers on here also like the HP and Torque! forgot that was here I thought Disco's were like universal reading the 4X mags they just say the parts not compatability I'll go back through the pages and see what I can find maybe I can make something work just hoping some one had a kit on the shelf
 






I would wait for the sway bar until after you drive it a little with the lift. A lot of guys say their lifted rig handles better than stock, since the spring are designed better and often you get a wider stance with larger tires and rims with more backspacing.

And yes, the transfer case is plenty strong. Also keep in mind that once you re gear for larger tires it will not really see any more stress than it would in a stock configuration.
 






oh right I forgot about re gearing you mean my diffs.... can I leave them stock?? if not what should I look for does it matter what brand and also should I put on wheel spacers??
 






yeah you can. but it will wear on your running gear faster. i personally have been running stock gears and 33's for a while now and i seem to be fine just keep up on fluids for your running gear. they are all going to tell you that you should go to 4.56 gears but thats another grand out of your pocket. i say it should be fine.....mine is.
 






The running gear as you put it is the pinion gear??
 






The running gear as you put it is the pinion gear??



mostly transmission,. you having a manual dont have to worry as much as us a4ld guys do (automatic trans). just keep up on trany fluid and gear oil and you should be fine
 






yeah you can. but it will wear on your running gear faster. i personally have been running stock gears and 33's for a while now and i seem to be fine just keep up on fluids for your running gear. they are all going to tell you that you should go to 4.56 gears but thats another grand out of your pocket. i say it should be fine.....mine is.

ok when you say 'stock' running gears you realize that explorers came with different gear ratios. a truck with 31s and 3.73 gears is gonna behave/perform drastically different than a truck with 31's and 3.27s. I think before this goes any farther the poster needs to find out what gears he is running and use that to decide on the size tire as well as the budget for his build.
 






ok when you say 'stock' running gears you realize that explorers came with different gear ratios. a truck with 31s and 3.73 gears is gonna behave/perform drastically different than a truck with 31's and 3.27s. I think before this goes any farther the poster needs to find out what gears he is running and use that to decide on the size tire as well as the budget for his build.


he said in one of his other posts that he is running 3.27 and he wanted to go to 3.73 gears i said that that is what im running. im running 3.7s's and i told him that in his other post. thanks though
 






i didnt see that.. my bad. i just re-read what i put and i sounded like an a-hole. i wasnt trying to be lol

if youre going to change gears.. do it once so you dont have to tear into it again. get a good ratio.
 






Whoa Whoa Whoa... no ok... I never said what gears I have... fact is I don't know I see that axle number page so I will have to look at my axles and use the chart to find my gearing... I want to run 33X13.5X15's on my stock 91 Sport 4X4 it's all Std/ Manual even the hubs.
 






you can go by the code on your drivers door sticker to find your axle ratio, here is a chart with the codes click here

as far as your tire size.. unless youre going full width a 13.5 isnt going to fit IMO, besides the strain it would put on your wheel bearings and driveline. 3.27s, 3.55s, 3.73s, or even 4.10s arent gonna be enough for that wide of a tire.
 






ok well this is all news to me but I know that lots of people run 13.5
 






ok well this is all news to me but I know that lots of people run 13.5s so there must be a way I can run 12.5 anyways and still buy my 15*10 then I have the option to go either way
 






the wider rim you buy the bigger the offset is.. sticking the wheel out farther from the spindle. this adds stress to the spindle/axle shafts/u-joints. the d35 is a pretty stout setup but wasnt meant to withstand this kind of stress, especially after years of use. you might want to look into a D44 upgrade on the spindle, try to beef up the d35 a little.
 






ok so if I upgrade to a D44 does that just replace the D35? will everything still be the same my hubs and bolt patern and sline gears? why is the D44 stronger?
 






Well your just replacing the D35 knuckle with the D44 knuckle so you will have a different bolt pattern but this will require reaming the lower ball joint hole of the D35 beam to allow the larger D44 ball joint to fit. The D44 stub shaft fits right onto the rest of the D35 shaft and it basically gives you bigger bearings and hubs and whatever else is on the D44 knuckle(caliper rotors etc...). You still keep the 27 spline D35 housing however.
 






ok so then it changes to the 5 on 5.5 bolt right? so I might as well just upgrade both front and rear axels if I go that rout and put in beafyer ones like what the bronco runs... this really sux!
 



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ok so then it changes to the 5 on 5.5 bolt right? so I might as well just upgrade both front and rear axels if I go that rout and put in beafyer ones like what the bronco runs... this really sux!

..or you can just run a 8" wide rim with a decent offset.
 






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