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92 Manual X won't move, slave cylinder?

FordLover

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My daily driver 92 won't go into gear with the engine running. The clutch pedal feels like it's doing nothing.
I checked the clutch fluid, and it was completely empty. After filling it up, and pumping the clutch, it was empty again.
Then I look under the truck, there is spotty black/clear fluid coming from inbetween the engine and the transmission.
background: 1992 2 door XL 148K miles. something's been noisey for a little while now, but quieted down alot when the clutch was pressed.

I need someone who knows these trucks well. I have to get the parts tomorrow, and do the clutch tomorrow night in my driveway.
1.) I need to know any specialty tools I might need to do this job.
2.) Any special tips, easy way around, tricks, shortcuts.
3.) aproximate time it will take to do the job (will have a friend helping)

Thanks, I gotta have this thing to get to work!
 



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RangerX

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Do you have a Haynes or Chiltons manual?
 






FordLover

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RangerX said:
Do you have a Haynes or Chiltons manual?

A friend has a Ford service manual on CD, gonna look at it in the morning. He said there is mention of a special tool to disconnect the slave cylinder lines, but doesn't describe it at all.
 






tlott01

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My two cents worth...

Just went through the same thing yesterday and today on my 91' XLT. Clutch was draggy when it got warmed up, grinding into first and reverse, sometimes had to pump the pedal to get into gear. Figured it needed to be bled AGAIN, so I hooked up my pressure bleeder to the clutch master and got underneath with my trusty 11mm flare nut wrench. Bled out a little fluid and then attempted to close the bleed valve - unfortunately the boss on the slave cylinder that receives the bleed screw BROKE OFF! I was NOT happy, although since it shifts perfectly since I finished putting it back together tonight it obviously needed replacement before I broke it.

The job itself is pretty straightforward, but there's a lot of stuff to remove & replace to get at it.

1. Follow Chilton/Haynes instructions and be aware that yes, you really do have to remove the exhaust Y-pipe to get the transmission out through the space between the transmission tunnel and the radius arm crossmember (if you have a body lift you MAY have enough clearance with the pipe in place). I took my catalytic converter off too and it made it much easier to work around the transfer case/transmission area. Be careful with the O2 sensor - they aren't cheap to replace if you break it maneuvering the Y-pipe out. And spray all the exhaust bolts with some quality penetrating oil first so you won't break them off. I stopped work last night when it became apparent that the pipe was going to have to come out. Sprayed the bolts down with PB Blaster and called it a night. Today they came right off with no hassles.

2. Buy or rent a transmission jack, the 450 lb capacity scissor type that you raise & lower with a 1/2" drive ratchet. MAJOR time-saver when you put the tranny/transfer case back in. I got mine out without it (only because the tool rental place was already closed yesterday when I got done buying the parts), but it saved my ass on reassembly.

3. Apparently you can remove the transfer case & tranny as a complete unit; it is simpler but that is a LOT of iron to maneuver as a unit under the truck. If you elect to split them (five bolts), the new gasket that goes in between them runs about $6.00 from the Ford dealer. Money well spent, IMHO.

4. If your pilot bearing is original, check it carefully while you're in there and replace if it is at all dodgy. A dry/rusted/frozen pilot bearing can have the same effect on shifting - if it transmits rotation to the transmission input shaft it will behave like the clutch is only partially disengaging.

GOOD LUCK! Let us know how many fingers you boo-boo; my penance was one slightly smashed thumb.

Tracy
91 XLT, 230K
 






tlott01

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Hey FordLover,

OOPS, almost forgot. The quick-disconnect line can either be released by careful application of a small flat-bladed screwdriver on the release sleeve, working your way around it. OR, you can get a 17mm cone wrench from a good bicycle shop and use it just like the special tool. I used a 16mm because that's what I had on hand and it was almost big enough to slip over the body of the fitting just like the Ford tool that the manuals show. I worked my around with the points of the jaw opening pressing on the release collar until it popped free. You might be able to do it with a regular open-end wrench if it isn't too thick.

TL
 






FordLover

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Thanks for the help, I got my parts today, and was suposed to start tonight, however I might be able to use a buddies garage that has lots of tools tomorrow.
I don't have the factory radius arm brackets because I have the skyjacker superruner lift, so perhaps I won't have to pull the exhaust?
Eh, I can't wait to get under this thing and start, it sucks not having a vehicle.
 






FordLover

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ok, well we did the whole thing, put the new clutch and slave in, put it all back together, and can't seem to bleed it sucessfully. The pedal has absolutely no resistance to it.
We bled it, and rebled it as per manual instructions.

The only other thing left that hasn't been replaced is the clutch master cylinder. Fluid would squirt out when the pedal was pumped, but perhaps it's not holding pressure?
I'm tired, frustrated, and about ready to give up and either turn it over to a professional, or sell this @#%#$&%^&*~ Ford.
 






AlaskanJack

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I just had a quality clutch replacement installed HD centerforce pressure plate and Kevlar disc. My clutch has very little reisistance also but dang its nice. I was told it was vaccuum bled to specs and the installer was a member of our offroad community who I trust without questions. Maybe the new slave like I got isn't as stiff.
 






KPT

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tlott01 said:
be aware that yes, you really do have to remove the exhaust Y-pipe to get the transmission out through the space between the transmission tunnel and the radius arm crossmember (if you have a body lift you MAY have enough clearance with the pipe in place).

I was able to get my transmission out without taking off the Y pipe. Made it a lot harder though as the tranny had to go in at an angle to clear the pipes.
 






FordLover

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well, got an update on this. Turns out when my slave went bad, all the fluid drained from the system. Normally the check valve at the slave prevents the fluid from draining out of the clutch master cylinder.
So I had a ton of air in my clutch master cylinder, and I ended up having to unbolt the master, tilt it flat and jiggle it for about 20 minutes while all the air bubbles worked their way out.
Now this is the best feeling clutch I've felt out of the 3 Manual Explorer's my family has owned.
Thanks for the hints/tricks and info guys, the clutch job really did go smoothly, I was just frustrated and didn't know about the clutch master cylinder holding air.
 






tlott01

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Pat yourself on the back!

Hey Fordlover -

Glad to hear you finally worked it out. Had the same problem bleeding mine because the line was still attached to the slave when I broke off the bleed screw boss. The pressure bleeder saved me a lot of cussing on that one, but it was dripping the old fluid out of everywhere while I was taking it apart.

Did you have to drop the Y-pipe to get the tranny out? Mine would ALMOST come out with it in place - figured it was quicker for me to just pull it rather than tear something up trying to BFFI it out (BFFI = Brute Force & F****** Ignorance!).

Tracy
 






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