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92 OHV Engine Removal

Joined
April 4, 2017
Messages
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City, State
Littleton, CO
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 Explorer XLT 4x4
So, after completely overhauling the A/C system earlier this month (new everything bar the evaporator, as per Maniak's suggestion) and flushing out the cooling system, I've had a recurring coolant leak. At first, the Exploder's drinking habit was really bad, like 0.5 gal a day bad. Turns out, numpty here couldn't tell a hose clamp cross-threading from it actually tightening up, so a quick visit to NAPA and a new hose clamp seemed to fix the problem.

A week later, as I was backing out of the garage on my way to work, I noticed a distinct trail of coolant following me down the driveway. I popped the hood and was greeted by a little fountain of coolant spurting from the upper radiator hose (at the thermostat housing). This time, I tightened that hose clamp and all the others with a 1/4" socket just to be on the safe side. Problem solved, I thought.

The wife and I recently came back from a trip up to Steamboat Springs and on the way back home, as we were traversing Loveland Pass, the brakes began pulsing really badly. They were on the list of things to tackle, but they were bad enough that they jumped to the top of the list.

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Luckily, it looks like I got to them just in time. All better now.

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And now we finally reach the point of this story. Yes, there was a point, after all; thanks for sticking with me so far. As I was rolling around under the car jacking it up so I could fix the brakes, I noticed yet another coolant leak. But how could this be? I had just tightened all the hose clamps! Ah... if only car mechanics were that easy.

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It's an awkward shot, I'll grant you, but it's the best I could muster. I'm lying on my back by the passenger side front wheel, looking up between the back of the engine and the firewall. At the top of the picture is the exhaust pipe going up to the headers and the oil filter. I think the leak is coming from just beneath the valve covers somewhere.

So, in addition to this newfound coolant leak, I also have a pre-existing oil leak from the oil pan gasket/transfer case area. I've no idea when the timing belt was last changed; or if it has ever actually been changed. The engine just tripped over the 170k mile marker, and I figure it's time to sort this stuff out properly. Since I bought the car, it's had new brake calipers, hoses, pads and rotors; new Energy Suspension master bushing kit, Moog RA bracket, and Ford RA, all new AC system; Motorcraft thermostat and coolant flush; new Alpine speakers throughout. I'm slowly knocking it into shape and assuming that little or no maintenance has ever been performed on this car.

My wife's uncle has an incredible garage that he said I could use. He has a lift, engine hoist and stand; amongst a host of other delightful tools that should make this job a whole load easier. My question is: if I'm pulling the engine, what else should I be looking to replace while I'm at it? I only plan to do this once, and I wanna nail it the first time.

So far, my meager brain has come up with the following list:

  • Engine mounts
  • Water pump
  • Spark plug leads (changed spark plugs during AC overhaul)
  • Accessory belt
  • Radiator fan and clutch (mine has the usual cracks)
  • Oil pan gasket
  • Rear engine gasket
  • Valve cover gaskets
  • Timing belt
  • Power steering flush
  • Fuel, air and oil filters
  • Oil change
  • All new coolant hoses and heater core bypass valve mod
Anybody care to chip in?
 



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Anybody care to chip in?

Have the heads magnafluxed -- make double sure there are no cracks.

170k is not really high miles for an OHV engine. But I suppose in your truck's case it's not the miles, it's the age and the life it has led. If all you have is a valve cover leak, you don't really have to pull the engine for that. Those kind of leaks are hard to spot sometimes. I guess if you have the lift, engine hoist, etc. it wouldn't be a bad idea. I'd re-gasket everything, get new lifters, etc.
 






Thanks for the reply, Rhett. Can you elaborate on the "etc." bit?
 






I may have been going beyond what you are planning. The "etc." would be a top-end rebuild, lifters/pushrods/valves/valve springs/cylinder rings. But you may not be doing that, or even need to do that at only 170k miles.

Are you planning on rebuilding the engine? Or just pulling it to change the oil pan gasket? Is this engine running well other than the leak(s)?

If the engine was running well -- I suppose you could just pull the engine, change the oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, lower intake manifold gasket, upper intake manifold gasket, rear main seal, and clean the oil pickup area, clean the upper and lower intake manifolds, change motor mounts and put it back in the truck. All I was getting at, is that if you do end up pulling the heads for any reason...and removing the valve covers...the top end is right there, pretty accessible.
 






The plan I had in my head was much more along the lines of your second scenario. It gets quite hot during sustained climbs and occasionally in stop-and-go traffic, but otherwise it pulls really well and there's no hint of smoke. I towed a friend's VW Jetta some 12 miles up some pretty steep hills without any issues. I guess if there's a fluid leak, it's probably not allowing the coolant to pressurise properly, so I'm not surprised it's overheating a little. Also, I've no idea of the age or condition of the water pump. I'm really just looking to stop it leaking fluids and do all the routine maintenance that would be much easier with the engine out the car.
 












Thanks, Arco. That's exactly the sort of thing I was trying to track down. I'll have a good read through it and get back to you with any questions.
 






I figure I should point out that the 4.0 OHV does not have a timing belt, it has a timing chain. Its a robust setup, that doesn't really need replacement.

Other than the oil pan gasket, nothing else on your list require the engine to be removed. I can't tell if you think the head gaskets are blown, but they can be changed while its in the truck, along with valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets, and plenum gaskets all at once. The rear main seal needs the tranny to be pulled, however. How bad is the oil leak? A quart every 1000 miles is nothing.
 












I figure I should point out that the 4.0 OHV does not have a timing belt, it has a timing chain. Its a robust setup, that doesn't really need replacement.

Other than the oil pan gasket, nothing else on your list require the engine to be removed. I can't tell if you think the head gaskets are blown, but they can be changed while its in the truck, along with valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets, and plenum gaskets all at once. The rear main seal needs the tranny to be pulled, however. How bad is the oil leak? A quart every 1000 miles is nothing.

I realized it was a timing chain rather than belt but figured, surely, by 170k miles even a chain would be due for replacement. If there's no service interval on them, I'll happily forego replacing it.

As far as the oil leak goes, it's probably around the rate you suggested. It just bugs me, but again I thought it was worth doing if I had the engine out anyway. I don't suspect it has blown head gaskets. There's no smoke, no coolant in the oil.
 






Are you sure it isn't just a intake manifold leak-or maybe a freeze plug?

It could well be. I guess I need to take a much closer look at this before I get too carried away. It's really hard to see from underneath, and I'd have to clamber on top of the engine to get a peak at it from above.
 






Timing chains stretch out over time, but there are plenty of examples over 300k miles with the original chain. It's not hard to replace with the engine in the truck either if it ever becomes a problem later. If the oil leak really bugs you, then yes, it seems pulling the engine is about the only way to replace the pan gasket safely.
 






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