92 X - Low Power issue

[DCaplinger]

Okay, I've got a 1992 Explorer 4.0L 2wd, and I'm having issues. I've read so many posts here already, and have taken a lot of actions because of them. Here's my issue... when idling, my voltmeter sits at or below N, and the lights dim. The issue continues when I'm not actively pressing on the gas pedal... at least, until it reaches a certain RPM, however, I have no tach, so I can't tell what it is.

Here's the steps I've taken so far:

1) Replaced all the plugs and wires.
2) Cleaned and remounted the GAF sensor and the IAC valve.
3) Replaced the PCV valve.
4) Replaced the ground cable from the battery to the chasis only.
5) Replaced the hot wire from the alternator to a relay in front of the power distribution area on the passenger side of the truck.
6) Oil change and new filter.
7) New air filter.
8) Tested the battery and alternator, which are both less than 8 months old.

Don't have any error codes or CEL yet since I reconnected the battery. The error code I had before indicated that cyl 6 was too lean, which I figure had to do with the fact that the plug was old, old, old.

I have purchased a multimeter, and will continue to read through threads. I'm new to all of this, so I'm learning as I go. Please feel free to throw me ideas to try out.

I do plan on running the truck to get the battery and alternator tested again tomorrow. Both are under warranty.

Regards,

Darian

 

[Tbars4]

..I would first pull the battery and the alt and have them each bench tested...Any low voltage on these trucks can show bad symptoms such as yours without throwing a code...

...It sounds like you have a bad voltage regulator and it may take your battery with it...Otherwise if those two items check out under load test, I would say it was your alt cable first, or pos cable...

...Whats up with your tach???...:scratch:

 

[DCaplinger]

I would first pull the battery and the alt and have them each bench tested

Yup, that's on my to do first thing in the morning.

Otherwise if those two items check out under load test, I would say it was your alt cable first, or pos cable.

Not the alt cable, I replaced it. I may run a new cable from the relay to the positive terminal and see if that helps.

Whats up with your tach???

My bad, I misspoke. The tach works just fine. I just never paid attention to it before to know if it idles any slower. Just took it for a drive. Drove smooth, and not a single hesitation on increase of speed. At cruising speed, the voltmeter was on A. Everytime I slowed, though, the voltmeter dropped back down to N.

I also have a quiet rattle or pinging noise (I don't know how to describe it) when I accelerate slowly. I don't have it when I accelerate faster (gun it).

Regards,

Darian

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Sounds like a corroded battery/alternator cable.

I was having the same issues, at idle everything woudl dim down, and I coudl rev to keep it going. Finally revving the engine didn't do anything it was so bad. I replaced the battery to starter, battery to solenoid, and solenoid to starter and I haven't had the needle or anythign dim once yet.

 

[DCaplinger]

Okay, I have rewired from the solenoid to the starter, and had previously wired from the solenoid to the battery. I also rewired from the battery to the starter. I also added SeaFoam to the fuel. Still getting low voltage output and now white exhaust.

I'm taking the alternator and battery in right now and will report back.

Regards,

Darian

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

I wouldn't about the white exhaust if you are worrying about it. It's just the seafoam cleaning the engine out, it'd be a HUGE smoke screen if you added directly to the engine instead of the fuel.

It's still weird that you're having problems with the voltage.

 

[DCaplinger]

Okay, done. This truck hasn't run this well since I bought it. Here's the final issues that were fixed:

1) Bad voltage regulator on the alternator. This one is of course the major culprit for both the major power drain and for the low voltage in idle.
2) Replacing the driver side rear door light switch. The replacement part should be in tomorrow, however, I don't have to pull the fuse anymore.

I have essentially performed a complete tune-up. I have a new fuel filter, but I'm going to hold off putting it on until I empty my tank. When the tank gets low enough, I'm going to drop it, and take a look at the float on the pump, as my fuel gauge hasn't worked in a long time.

Thank you all so very much for all your help. Just as a bit of advice, should anyone else be having this problem, ask your shop to do a test of the alternator and battery while still on the vehicle. I had them do a test of the alternator off the vehicle, and it passed. However, while on the vehicle, it failed. That's because the RPMs on the test machine they use was high enough to produce the right power output... whereas on the truck... well, you know how that went!

Regards,

Darian

 

[Tbars4]

...Do you mean the bench test was better than in the vehicle test..:scratch:


...I have had several false readings while the parts were in the vehicle and wound up with definate answers when I had the items bench tested...

...Congrats on getting her fixed and she should run a lot better now...Be sure you are getting a complete fuel pump as they usually try to sell just the pump by itself...

 

[DCaplinger]

Yup, it passed during the bench test, but failed while on the vehicle. Odd, I know, but Murphy's law was in full effect.

I no longer have to wait for the part. I went to Pepboys, who said they had it, but didn't (I won't ever shop there again)... and then drove across town to Auto Zone, who did have it, and about 1/2 the price of the first place I went to.

My job is done. I've cleaned the interior out, and vacuumed, so I'm done detailing her too.

Next year, I'll be getting the AC recharged. If it works if not

I'll also be doing some exterior work. I had a fender bender back a few months ago because of brake failure (I have since replaced the master cylinder), and need to replace my hood and front bumper. I'd also like to replace the rear bumper. It was a replacement part after another accident (which wasn't my fault), and the one I got from the repair shop has totally rusted (I won't shop there again either).

Regards,

Darian