92 XLT brake line repair/replace | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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92 XLT brake line repair/replace

dmorris

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 22, 2007
Messages
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City, State
Orlando FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 xlt
I was replacing the master cylindar on my 2wd xlt, some how managed to bend the brake line just were it exits the fitting into the MC (fitting in the middle not the end of the MC). It is not a kink, just bent more than I like. brakes work fine now, no leaks, but bugs me everytime I look at it.


I was thinking I could cut offand re flare the end, prob loose at most 3/4" of the line, leave it alone and don't look at it, or replace the line (looks to be about 3' total length. If I went for the replacement can I buy a OEM that is bent to match? or do shops bend up as required, or should I get a tubing bender and some line and have at it?
 



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you buy the line and you bend it.

just did my sable for rusted lines.

go to parts store and see what sizes they have.
 












My vote would also be to replace it. If any others look suspect (rusty), now's the time to do as many as needed. As mentioned, these are going to be "match fittings and bend to suit."

Mike
 






If it's 1 of the lines coming off the master cylinder, I doubt it it's 3' long. The line should go to a junction block below the MC. Most auto stores varying lengths of line. Make sure you get the correct diameter/thread. Also, make sure you can get all the bleeders loose before you start replacing the line.
 






I am new to brake line bending, have to do some more research about how to create flares as well. any step by step pic guides would be nice if anyone knows where I can find a link to. Thanks again.
 






Well, you COULD do it that way (flaring yourself), but it's far easier to get a replacement that is approximately the same length as the line you're removing, with the correct fittings already on both ends. If the new line is longer, you could just add an extra bend or two.

BTW, use a tubing bender tool ($20 at Sears, Home Depot, etc.). This will save you from kinking the new line.

Hope this helps.

Mike
 






well double duh on me, I did not even think of it that way (already flared and nuts on) I just assumed you had to build from scratch. YES that helps a lot.
 












RABS yes afaik, that is what I was told when I bought it in 92
 






Sorry I took so long, but I couldn't logon to the forum all day. That junction block somebody mentioned above is the Rabs valve. I've got mine pulled out now and I'm trying to find out if I really need to put it back in because it's in a real hard place. I have a post in this forum now but nobody will help me. This used to be a good forum. I don't know if the Rabs is used just for the antilock function or if it also is for proportioning or something. I did search on it but didn't find what I needed.
 






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