93 4wd 4.0 Explorer starts then dies won't keep running

[chiefssc]

Heres a stumper.
Your replies have gotten me this far. thank you for your help.
I have cleaned the IAC and MAF. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump relay, and the spark plug wires.
I have checked the fuel pump pressure (35 to 40 lbs psi), timing, and compression. All are good.
I get two error codes: OBD I
O114 AIR CHARGE TEMPERATURE SENSOR HIGHER OR LOWER THAN EXPECTED VOLTAGE
O565 CANISTER PURGE SOLENOID CIRCUIT FAILURE

I have replaced a cracked hose on the canister, and the battery is a little low from trying to get the truck running. The engine cranks fine and starts immediately, but will not keep running. It dies within about 2 - 3 seconds.
Please help, This is my wifes' car and she won't give mine back until I fix hers'.

 

[MrShorty]

My experience suggests that those are both KOEO codes. KOEO 114 is usually caused by running the KOEO test on a cold engine, which is a likely scenario considering that it won't stay running.

KOEO 565 should be pretty easy to track down. It's either a break in the CANister Purge (CANP) solenoid circuit or a short to ground. I'm not sure that it would explain the stalling, but it shouldn't be overly difficult to determine.

When you tested the fuel pressure, were those numbers from when it was stalling? It would be conceivable to have a scenario where the fuel pressure came up to spec KOEO, but then dropped off after the engine started until the pressure got below what the engine needed to run.

Any vacuum leaks?

 

[wood1]

did you try unplugging your MAF and trying to start it? I have seen MAF's fail and when unplugged the computer ignores that there isn't one...

I wouldn't drive too far that way but if it works you need a new MAF.
C.

 

[manaen]

You say you cleaned the IAC and MAF, but have you tested them to make sure they are working?

I would lean more towards the IAC, but it could be many other things..

 

[chiefssc]

Thank you Mr. Shorty, I Have found and stopped all vacumn leaks I could find. I tested the fuel pump pressure when it was stalling and when it started the pressure did not fallbelow 35lbs psi, so I assume the pressure is holding.
Thank you C, I tried unplugging the MAF but it didi no good.
Thank you Rusty, I am not sure how to check the IAC. But I do not get any codes on either the IAC or the MAF, I have had trouble with the MAF before and cleaning it fixed those problems.

A dirty MAF will not let the cruise control downshift when approaching a hill.

Thank you all, keep up the suggestions.
Scott Aztec N.M.

 

[manaen]

so did you fix the purge valve? that could be a the source of the stalling, if it is stuck open.

 

[suprcharg97]

I would check the volume of fuel getting to the fuel rail. At the sametime check for a possible fuel quality issue. How many miles are on the vehicle? Could have a timing chain concern. Might have stretched or jumped a tooth on the gear. Take a good look at the crankshaft position sensor, for proper gap and make sure there is no obstructions or metal filings on the sensor tip. Inspect the wiring from the crankshaft position sensor for any chaffing or pin push out. About your MAF sensor, you have to disconnect the connector to the maf and cycle the key on and off five times and then start the vehicle to see if that is the concern. It takes that long for the pcm to infer detect the device is not operating correctly and then will infer the input from a look up table strategy.

There is a possible chance that the coolant temperature sensor has gone bad. This results in the vehicle pcm thinking its really cold out side and dumping excessive fuel, causing a flooding condition. I have never experienced a cranks, starts, and then stalls condition with this concern before. It will usually just run rough and have excessive black smoke out the tail pipe and no code present because it thinks you are in a cold region.

 

[suprcharg97]

You might also want to start with how this concern came about. Was it a quick on set or a progressive long term issue? Was there something that happend at the time of concern. Prior repairs on the vehicle recently that might have an impact on this concern? Has the vehicle been in a wreck and this relates to someone making a improper repair attempt? IAC concern can be checked by cracking the throttle to see if there is a lack O2 supply to the engine.

 

[manaen]

also to test the IAC
1) test the voltage from the PCM, with the KOEO you should be getting between 10.5 to 12.5 at the IAC
2) then measure the resistance across the terminals of the IAC it should be from 6 to 13 ohms
3) then check the IAC for an internal short, so do an ohm check from the body of the IAC to each of the pins in the connector, it should be 10k ohms or greater.
4) make sure the inside of the valve is clean and everything moves smoothly