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93 Explorer dies and won't start again for minutes after a hard stop or turn

Dubious_Downfall

Active Member
Joined
July 6, 2018
Messages
84
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13
City, State
Fife, WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1992 Mazda Navajo LX
I have a 1993 Ford Explorer Sport. In the last month I've replaced the ignition coil pack, spark plugs, plug wires, and battery. Both before and after all of those parts being installed, my truck will stall and die when panic stopping or taking a hard turn. Not only will it die, but it won't start for minutes after. The truck is a manual, so at first I weighed the possibility of it being user error, but I've had it happen both with the clutch pedal fully depressed and with the trans in neutral. I really hope some of the people on the forum can help me out with this. You guys have been amazingly helpful since the first day I owned my truck.

Edit: I meant I coil pack, not distributor. My apologies for the confusion.
 



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Does it just turn over like its not getting any fuel, or how is it not starting?

I wonder if you have a faulty inertia switch, or a badly grounded inertia switch. Check the wiring to the switch, its under the dash, passenger side, under the top of the carpet.
 






Sounds like fuel slosh in the carburetor fuel bowls. Holly sells an anti-slosh kit.

I only say this because our fuel injected 4.0l v6 engines don't have a distributor so I assume you have an engine swap.
 






LOL

I suspect fuel pump and or fuel pump relay
 






I agree with BKenndy. I have dealt with those inertia switches on many fords over the years. I usually remove them when they go bad, if you take your stuff off-road on rough terrain you will understand why.
 






Don't remove the inertia switch!!! Replace it with one that works.......a good inertia switch wont just POP from offroading, it takes a serious bump or rollover to get that steel ball to jump.
Easy enough to bypass the inertia switch for testing or to get you off the trail
Removing the switch and then rollover your fuel pump keeps running = can burn everyone to death

Next time the explorer won't start after this condition LISTEN for the fuel pump to prime when you turn the key. My guess is you wont hear anything (or it will sound really weak) and the fuel pump relay or the pump itself is bad...... a fuel rail pressure test when hot is a great idea
 






Update:
I replaced the idle air control valve, cleaned the mass air flow sensor, and topped off the power steering reservoir (It was pretty low, especially considering I checked it only a few weeks ago and it was full at the time).

Since then, I haven't had the same problem. I've tried to recreate the problem, going as far as finding a clear area and stomping on the brakes like my life depended on it. No stalling. Tried the same with some hard turns and had the same result.

I have noticed that my power steering pump has started to whine from being low on fluid. I'm keeping an eye on it for leaks and will flush the fluid soon.

A big thanks to everyone who replied. I will answer your questions, just in case someone has a similar problem.

To start, my engine is fuel injected. It's the same 4.0L OHV Cologne V6 that you'd find in any other first generation explorer. However, it's from another vehicle (not sure what), it's been rebuilt, and it has a comp cam. My apologies for saying distributor instead of coil pack.

I have not had a chance to listen for the fuel pump after a stall since it hasn't stalled again. I do suspect that the fuel pump is the original, and my truck has either 198k miles or 298k (annoying first gen odometers...), so I am going to replace the fuel pump soon anyway. Mainly because I have a misfire I haven't identified the cause of.

When she would stall, I'd turn the key, the starter would crank the motor, but it wouldn't start. I'm ruling out electrical since I replaced the relevant parts and haven't had any change with the stalling (I did improve my misfire problem a bit, though).

I'm going to check the fuel pressure at the rail soon. I've ordered new fuel injectors already. Hopefully, by the time I'm done, the engine will run like it's brand new. I'm also changing the fluids in the transfer case, transmission, and both differentials. I love this truck. I'll be damned if I'm going to let it die.
 






Does it just turn over like its not getting any fuel, or how is it not starting?

I wonder if you have a faulty inertia switch, or a badly grounded inertia switch. Check the wiring to the switch, its under the dash, passenger side, under the top of the carpet.

I forgot to address your reply. I apologise. Especially since it seems like the most likely if my attempts haven't already solved the issue. I will definitely take a look. I wouldn't be surprised if things have corroded down there.
 






Actually I have had this problem before. It is fuel slosh in that tank and more than likely a bad fuel filter sock. I ran through 4 fuel pumps in mine before I finally tracked down the issue, but it never went away completely. Hopefully, what you did keeps the problem at bay, but I have always found that keeping at least an 1/8th of a tank of gas in the truck and avoiding leaving my truck pointed down on an incline fixes the issue. :D

Good luck.
 






Actually I have had this problem before. It is fuel slosh in that tank and more than likely a bad fuel filter sock. I ran through 4 fuel pumps in mine before I finally tracked down the issue, but it never went away completely. Hopefully, what you did keeps the problem at bay, but I have always found that keeping at least an 1/8th of a tank of gas in the truck and avoiding leaving my truck pointed down on an incline fixes the issue. :D

Good luck.

I would agree with you, but it's happened to me at over half a tank a couple of time. I will be replacing the sock filter with the pump anyway, though. I appreciate the input. It's an old truck with lots of miles. It could actually be exactly what you described, but also have other factors contributing to the problem. So I'll be narrowing down the possibilities, even if the parts look fine.

Thank you, MrQ!
 












Don't rule out compression for a misfire. I know you said the engine is recently rebuilt, but this is a very often overlooked part of troubleshooting and if you have the tool it's free to try.
 






I don't think you said what kind of spark plugs you have. With our wasted spark ignition systems it is critical to use Double Platinum Plugs as half of our plugs the spark jumps from the ground to the center electrode contrary to standard COP [coil over plug] and distributor systems. The wasted spark is also why we have to replace our plug wires twice as often, they see twice the use.

Hope that helps with the misfire.
 






I don't think you said what kind of spark plugs you have. With our wasted spark ignition systems it is critical to use Double Platinum Plugs as half of our plugs the spark jumps from the ground to the center electrode contrary to standard COP [coil over plug] and distributor systems. The wasted spark is also why we have to replace our plug wires twice as often, they see twice the use.

Hope that helps with the misfire.

I put in double platinums. I generally check the forum before I do ANY repairs. I can't remember who exactly, but it was someone on the forum who informed me about the double platinum spark plugs. Thank you, though. Having this information here for anyone else with similar problems is invaluable at times. I know it has been for me.
 






Just an update. I noticed after letting her sit with under a quarter tank that my misfire got WAY worse. Filled the tank and it improved immensely. A new fuel pump should get here today, but I'm going to wait for the weekend to drop the tank so the daily drive to and from work lightens the tank a bit. I have to say, the new IAC valve definitely helped, but as it happens with these old gen 1's, it's almost never just one thing. My recommendation to anyone with similar problems at this point: clean the MAF sensor and IAC valve, check your air filter, clean the throttle body, make sure you've got spark on all cylinders, and if all that fails, try running on a low tank. If it stalls on a low tank, my guess is that your fuel pump is failing, or the fuel sock in the tank is clogged. In my case, I'm replacing both. Theres no reason not to, unless you really love dropping your fuel tank for some reason. They come together with everything you need in a kit you can get online inexpensively.

I really hope this helps someone. And a big thanks to everyone who has given their input. Everything counts.
 












Huh.... you have a split or pinhole in the pump drawtube and have been sucking air when the fuel gets too low. Explains everything.

I wish Click and Clack were still around, this would be a good one.

We will find out this weekend. I'll keep an eye on that area and let you know.
 






Update! Though, not the one you or I was hoping for. Amazon shipping deemed my package damaged and refunded my money. That's nice and all, but... they didn't TELL ME that I wasn't going to get my package. I had to place another order.

However, I have some useful information to add. Friday afternoon, drove for nearly an hour to get home, I pull hard left into the driveway (at the bottom of a hill on a busy road), and my engine dies. Same problem. The starter turns, but the motor either doesn't start or starts like it isn't firing on all cylinders, then dies less than a minute later (pressing the gas doesn't help). When it does that partial start, it sits around 500 RPM and bounces around that spot.

I am going to take this chance to list EVERYTHING that I've done since the rebuild.
Spark Plugs
Plug Wires
Ignition Coil Pack
Oil change (<100 miles ago)
Oil filter
Oil Pressure Sensor
Fuel Filter
Serpentine Belt
Fan Clutch
PCV Valve (did this after it stalled on Friday)
IAC Valve
MAF Sensor cleaned

I'll add to this as I remember things or do more repairs.
 






Update! Though, not the one you or I was hoping for. Amazon shipping deemed my package damaged and refunded my money. That's nice and all, but... they didn't TELL ME that I wasn't going to get my package. I had to place another order.

However, I have some useful information to add. Friday afternoon, drove for nearly an hour to get home, I pull hard left into the driveway (at the bottom of a hill on a busy road), and my engine dies. Same problem. The starter turns, but the motor either doesn't start or starts like it isn't firing on all cylinders, then dies less than a minute later (pressing the gas doesn't help). When it does that partial start, it sits around 500 RPM and bounces around that spot.

I am going to take this chance to list EVERYTHING that I've done since the rebuild.
Spark Plugs
Plug Wires
Ignition Coil Pack
Oil change (<100 miles ago)
Oil filter
Oil Pressure Sensor
Fuel Filter
Serpentine Belt
Fan Clutch
PCV Valve (did this after it stalled on Friday)
IAC Valve
MAF Sensor cleaned

I'll add to this as I remember things or do more repairs.
I know it's been a long time, but wanted to follow up and see what happened with your ex or if you are still having issues. Have you noticed any change in oil pressure? Any clunks upon acceleration or when you panic stop?
 



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