'94 302/4R70W/BW1354 Upgrade | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

'94 302/4R70W/BW1354 Upgrade

OK guys, a few of you helped me with my SAS setup and because of you guys, everything went pretty smooth with the swap. Thanks!

Now it's time to continue on with this "Island Explorer" project and get a engine and tranny upgrade. Here's what I am looking at so far:

'96-'00 Explorer Donor - grabbing the 5.0L V8, the 4R70W tranny, all the electricals for engine and tranny, radiator parts, and whatever else I'm gonna need from the donor.

I plan on keeping my BW1354 and getting the adapter from AA from tranny to TC. I'm also getting other parts for this conversion through AA.

What you guys think? :thumbsup: or :thumbdwn:
Any problems? Anyone know if theres any problems with the exhaust manifold and the fender wells? I haven't seen any pics but it might be hard to change spark plugs with the wells and plugs near each other. Though I do have a 3" body lift!!! :rolleyes:
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





hmmm you will also want the wiring diagrams for the power distribution, fuel systems, transmission, and more

my wiring books are from bumper to bumper, every single wire from headlight to tail light, very handy!

I got access to similar wiring diagrams using the Mitchell Repair manuals. I figured the headlights and taillights and similars will be from the '94 and nothing to do with the '96. I do have power distribution (Exterior and Interior), and Grounding Distribution (placements of grounds throughout the X's) for both the '94 and the '96 (5.0 donor)

Fuel Systems, I may have to check on that one....I'm assuming you're talking about the electricals for the fuel system and not the piping, right?

Also, would the transmission wiring be only concerning the '96 and not the '94? Is there a '94 to '96 interface for the transmission? (thinking out loud)Column shifter to transmission is mechanical,...wait..."reverse lights"-- is that from the shifter or from the transmission? :rolleyes:

Looking into that!!!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





fuel system electricals yes, basically you jsut have to feed your existing fuel pump relay from the new 96 computer, simple
I am still using a 1988 duel fuel pump system and lines in my 88 BII with a 97.5 5.0L computer, so yes only the wiring changes a bit. I did add the OBD-2 fuel tank pressure sensor and wires to my truck though, 2 wires from PCM to gas tank, everything else is already there

the 96 transmission is a total different animal from 94
reverse sensor is one wire, purple wityh orange I believe = simple
then there is the NSS again , simple
VSS = can get tricky, you want to use the 96 VSS but with the 94 dash/tach or swap in a V8 tachometer

the 96 trans is OBD-s though so it has a DTRS , but the 5.0L harness will include the wiring for all of this and the 02 sensors
I am using a 96 mustang floor shifter, shifter arm, parking pawl, and cable on my 88 also, floor shifters are cool, especially when they include the OD on off button

make a mpa of the wires on your truck, find those wires on the 06 and start splicing wiring pins! TAKE NOTES and make MAPS
 






Hey 410- How did you deal with the transmission and column shift pattern? i.e. '96 5.0L has a P R N OD 2 1 shift pattern whereas the '94 4.0L has a P R N OD D 2 1.
 






You ended up using a floor shifter instead. Is that the better way to go?
 






You can do either

My buddy Joe used his A4LD column shifter with his AOD-E by blocking off the "1" position (welder) and he even re-made the plastic gear indicator on his dash to read properly

So A4LD: PRN OD D21
AOD-E: PRND21

so OD becomes D
D becomes 2
and 2 becomes 1

they are spaced properly DEPENDING on what shift arm you use in your AOD-E or 4r70w (same pattern)

I used a 96 Mustang floor shifter because it has the correct pattern, 88 BII never had column shift, and it has a built in OD button
I did have to change the cable and shifter in the transmission over to the mustang style also because the cable approaches the transmission from the back, not the front like the exploder

If I was rich I would have used a Art Carr gate shifter/cable/shifter arm, and a custom 4r70w, but keeping with tradition and a small budget, I went junk yard instead :) Any aftermarket AOD-E shifter will also work
 






Are the shift arms for the 94 A4LD and the 96 4R70W the same pattern and spacing?
And if they are, then I could basically just hook up the 4R70W to the 94 Column shift and all I would have to do is block the 1st gear position? Basically the exact same thing as your friend Joe did?

I would also like to convert over to a floor shifter (B&M, Hurst,...) but I'm TRYING to keep it within my budget!! hahaha, well u know how that goes! Thanks
 






Will the 4r70w transmission bolt up in the same place as the A4LD Transmisison, in the exact mounting place, or will I need to relocate/fab up the mounting for the transmission? And if the transmisison will bolt up to the exact location, will the 5.0 engine have any issues as I bolt it up to the transmission (i.e. engine cross member will need to be modified to the application?

Will the transfer case need to be removed with the transmission or can it be left in place on the truck with it mounted to the cross member?
 






transfer case hangs on the transmission, it has no crossmember, you have to remove the t case before you can unbolt the trans

ON my BII i have to remove my t case before I can remove my transmission mount.

I was able to re-use my skyjacker transmission crossmember, but I had to HEAVILY modify my AutoFAB transmission mount to work with the 4r70w (used to hold the A4LD)

They do not bolt in the same place, but its not far off, maybe 2" forward, there are several different ways to get the trans mount to work

I also chose to retain the 5.0L exhaust hanger with my newly modified AutoFAB trans mount, my setup is a very tight fit, as I said the t case has to come off before I can remove the trans mount :)

pics form my conversion thread:

2893tmount.jpg


2893transmount.jpg


Others have simply drilled new holes in the A4LD trans corssmember, fabbed new x member, all sorts of solutions...my skyjacket x member also picks up my radius arms, so I wanted to keep it

Yes you can block off the 1 position from your A4LD shifter and get it to work with the 4r70w, I personally went with a junk yard / ebay 96 Mustang floor shifter, cable, trans bracket, and shifter arm.......it fits and works *****en with a few mods, even has the OD button :)

pics:
 






looks like you were about to post the pics of your floor shifter, but it didn't work. I would loike to see this because I am contemplating on going to the floor shift like you did or keeping the column shifter functional. The only thing is that it does not have a "OD Button" so I would have to fab one and mount it on the dash somewhere. I also have a CB radio down where the shifter would be so I would like to see if it'll remain there or would I need to relocate it. Thanks 410!
 






BTW, you think I'll be able to use a '96 4r70w transmission crossmember and mount on the 94? With little to no mods?
 






dude I did a full write up when I recently re-visited my 96 mustang floor shifter, I modified it to work for 4x4ing WAY better then before AND finally installed the correct mustang shifter arm in my 4r70w trans.. its backwards from the column shift setup..

For the life of me I cant find the write up in either of my BII threads!! LOL I will keep looking (edit found:)

On to the Shifter conversion:
Here is my 98 explorer setup, the shift arm faces upwards and with the 96 Mustang floor shifter I was using it has the wrong amount of "throw"

oldshift1.jpg


oldshift2.jpg


So I had to convert this trans to use the 96 Mustang shift pawl, cable and bracket. Ford wanted $140 for the cable and bracket, I won a 96 Stang shifter and cable on Ebay for $16.50. The stang shift pawl came from Ford, $20

shiftcable.jpg


ebayshift.jpg


install was simple, remove the DTRS, remove the nut on the inside of the shift pawl and pull it through trans. Install new seal on stang part, install into trans, install DTRS. You can see the explorer shift arm was outward of the DTRS, the stang shift arm is inward, keeping it tucked closer to the trans....thank goodness! I have a front d shaft so this clearance really helps!

All installed, cable and bracket mounted

newshiftarm.jpg


Onto the floor shifter itself:
the 96 stang shifter has no detents for gears 1 and 2, it simple slides right from 1 to 2 right to D. Well for 4x4ing this SUCKS. I want to lock it into 1, and lock it into 2, so out apart comes my Ebay shifter and out comes the dremmel

before
shiftplate.jpg


after
shiftplatecut.jpg


sweetness! Now to fix my mount, when I did the V8 I hurried up and got th efloor shifter mounted. Now I finally had the parts and time to do it right, this floor plate cover came from a 96 Explorer, amazingly it FITS THE 88 trans tunnel!

floorplate.jpg


mounted, fits awesome:

shiftmounted.jpg


Now will the front d shaft clear the new shift cable/bracket?
frontshaftclear.jpg


YES! Barely!


For the trans:
96 x member is not really a simple x member the gen II frame is totally different. Plan to lightly modify your stock 4.0L crossmember OR build new from scratch
 






What upgrades to do...

OK, last weekend i removed the 4r70w and sent it to the trans shop to get rebuilt and i removed the 5.0L out and is now sitting in my "garage". As of now, I am just cleaning it up a bit like all that oil gunk from the oil pan and dust an debris from the topside of the engine.

My question is: Since I have the engine out, what work would you suggest I do on it?


Rebuilding it is somewhat out of the question mostly due to funds. But I do have enough for some minor upgrades or replacement of parts.

Replacing sensors would be an example (O2, DPFE, oil pressure, oil level, etc...) but certain sensors would not need to change right at the moment like IAC for example as it is easily accessible after the engine is installed.

I am planning on chaning things like: Spark plug wires and spark plugs, alternator is working well, but is making some kind of scratchy noise so I'm replacing that anyway, I got TM headers, oil reloc kit, maybe even the coil pack.

I am thinking about changing the waterpump, power steering, etc...They all work but I'm thinking that since the engine is out, I might as well replace them now.

ANyway, engine had 152K miles before I yanked it. Anyone has suggestions as to what should I replace or even upgrade (like adding 1" intake spacers, throttle body upgrade, etc...) for performance purposes?
 






Accidently removed something I shouldn't have???

I am hoping someone will be able to help me and give some insight to my mistake. :(

Basically I "accidently" removed the camshaft position sensor and synchronizer assembly (as a whole) while trying to clean around the top front area of the 5.0 engine. But I DID NOT remove the sensor from the synchronizer AND I DID NOT remove it completely.

Am I screwed? Do I need to re-sync it with the #1 cylinder again?


So what happened was I wanted to throughly clean around the CAM POS Sensor when I decided to remove that locking bolt thingy that holds the flange of the synchronizer down into the engine. As I was slowly, removing what I had thought was just a simple sensor, thats when I realized that I had "perturbed" what looked like a "pinion". Not knowing what I had just unbolted, I didn't want to take it all the way out so i put it back in, and bolted it up exactly where it was initially by using the dirt and clean marks left behind by the locking bolt thingy. Further research into the Chilton's book, and i discovered that it was the synchronizer for the camshaft.

Now I read in the Chiltons that if I remove the sensor from the synchronizer that I will need to re-sync it with the #1 cylinder at 10* pass TDC.

even though I didn't remove it completely where the gears were still in sync'ed with each other, do I still need to re-sync it????
 






it should be fine since you put it right back in place, however your absolute best bet is to get the synch tool and re-install it.
At least check out the threads that show how to synch it soyou know what you are looking at and why, its very likely you bolted it right back down in the same position it needs to be in, bringing Cyl #1 to TDC compression stroke and you can check easily.

You can also remove the CPS and prime the oil pump/check for oil pressure IMO this is a very good idea... I recently installed a 5.0L v8 into a 98 just to find out it has no oil pressure = SUCKS, I learned my lesson and I will check oil pump and drive each and every time BEFORE I install a used engine

Clean the engine, you may want to do a 1" intake spacer now with some new intake gaskets, good chance to clean/paint the upper intake

I like to use some silicoln around the oil dipstick hole also, but that will likely have to wait until the engine is back in the truck and you are bolting on the exhaust manifolds, there is always debris/oil around the factory oil dipstick hole, the o ring just doesnt seal it up well enough
 






i was reviewing some of the CPS threads, I may need to research it a little more before I try to tackle it. Don't know very much about engine work so I don't want to screw something up!

I'll also look more into the priming of the oil pump and drive procedure. Sounds like it should be something I should do before I install it.

Cleaning the engine is what I am doing now, thats a guarentee (sp?)
Gaskets I am replacing are:
- upper intake assembly (TB/IAC/elbow/upper intake manifold)
- between the upper and lower intakes ( i got the 1" spacer)
- timing chain cover & waterpump
- oil pan
- valve cover (planning on changing stock valve covers to aftermarket ones, any suggestions to which one?)
- exhaust manifold with the TMH's

thats it so far, mostly just replacing ones I know by visual inspection that had failed.

for the seals, right now I am just replacing the oil seal from the timing chain cover. Is that the same as the front seal? should I replace the rear seal since the oil pan is out?

components I am replacing are:
- waterpump
- valve covers (?)
- a/c compressor
- exhaust manifolds with TMH's
- spark plugs with the wires (maybe with the E3's??)
- and whatever hoses I can get my hands on.

thats all I can think of so far...i'll add more when I think of them...
Thanks
 






Attachments

  • tfs-51520004.jpg
    tfs-51520004.jpg
    9.5 KB · Views: 2,250












LOL you need the one with the roundy round holes

Skip the E3 plugs, use Motocraft double plat
 






LOL you need the one with the roundy round holes

Skip the E3 plugs, use Motocraft double plat

lol, yah I was expecting the roundy holes but when I pulled it out of the box, I saw squarey holes! And you know what, I noticed that the holes were squared on the summit website but I thought it was one of those "picture does not represent actual product" kinda pictures.

Are the E3 plugs overrated??
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Does anyone know if the valve covers for non-efi 302 broncos that have "Bronco Powered by Ford" will fit with the 1" intake spacer installed?

Looking to change out my stock valve covers with something better! The Ford Racing website only have "Cobra", "Ford Racing", and "Mustang".
 






Back
Top