'94 4x4 4.0L engine seized (SOLVED, IT'S A RUNNER NOW) | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
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'94 4x4 4.0L engine seized (SOLVED, IT'S A RUNNER NOW)

kirkallen143

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As I posted in the introductions, this explorer was given to me free, and never knew it's history. Being it has sat outside unused for say 12 years, I venture into unknowns about this explorer. Towed it to the house and first started tearing out the rat/mouse/squirrel pee'd interior. Then started on the engine bay, same as before, infested with nests. Ended up the most part of the next day repairing/splicing wires back together that had been mangled from rodents (and a few vacuum hoses, too). Started after that to drop the fuel tank knowing it will need cleaning and a new pump assembly. After I finished the tank removal, started thinking to myself, "I don't even know if this engine turns over?"
Hooked up a 2nd vehicle to jump the engine over, turned ignition key and nothing but starter solenoid clicks. Jumped solenoid with screwdriver and the same. Pulled off starter, it tested fine. Try to turn flywheel and no budge. Put a pipe wrench on harmonic balancer and no budge, either.
Was ready to sell explorer to the scrap yard! Cooled off, collected my thoughts over the evening, and started back at it Sunday morning.
Pulled spark plugs, #'s 1, 2, and 3 had a very slight bit of turquoise colored corrosion (not much at all, maybe a small speck), and #'s 4, 5, and 6 looked normal. No rust on #'s 1, 2, and 3 plugs, thinking if there is/was a head gasket issue.
Bought me a couple of bottles of Marvel's Mystery Oil, added about 8 oz. to each cylinder, and that my friends is where I stand. Going to let the MMO do it's thing for a couple of days before I try and turn engine over again.
I wish I had a way of looking into the cylinders, other than just shining a flashlight into plug's hole.
Hopefully, the MMO does the trick. Are there any other better methods for getting an unused engine to turn over from sitting too long? Well, that is unless the engine is locked up, now that's a whole different can of worms.

Thanks,
Kirk
 



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Mbrooks420

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If it’s stuck enough you can’t roll it over with a pipe wrench I doubt the MMO will do much. Even if you get it broken free it likely won’t run for long.

If you want to try and run that best bet is to yank the motor and do a tear down. Hone and re-ring it.
 






roscoe 0202

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go to harbor freight they have an inexpensive camers that will go through the spark plug hole but I think what mbrooks says is quite accurate
roscoe
 






Mbrooks420

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I’ve freed several old powersports motors using different methods. Several I’ve soaked in solvent and oil, and broke the stuck rings from the cylinder by hammering a dowel rod through the plug hole. These would typically run, but had a poor lifespan before needing a top end.

Others I tore down, and re honed. Sometimes cleaning up the rings and reinstalling. These had a much better lifespan before needing a soft rebuild.
 






kirkallen143

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Thanks guys, yes I like the idea of a hone and re-ring. Going to give it a week to sit with the MMO and try to see if it will at least turn it over Was going to save this one for my daughter to drive next year, but I looks like it will be "my toy". Did a '61 scout before some years ago, unstuck it, hone it and reused rings. Still running today and starts at the flick of a switch (just hope this V6 doesn't weigh as much as that solid iron I-4 International engine did, @ 600 lbs.)
Of course I'll give everything else a good looking over, too.
Oh by the way, I have never pulled and engine with an automatic transmission behind it, only manuals. So you just unbolt the torque converter from flywheel, or is it a flex-plate? How many bolts on the bell housing? I searched on here for engine removal, but found nothing but the SOHC, the same?
Another, what would be some of the most important things to replace on an unknow engine like this? Oil pump, lifters, timing chain, water pump, freeze plugs while the engine is out? I know, lots of questions, but I figured I get the advise from professionals like yourselves (and a good manual, too). I'm all ears...

Appreciate it,
Kirk
 






kirkallen143

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Well, about maybe 6 bolts form pulling the engine as of last night. I will tell you one thing, those plastic hold-down electrical connectors, no matter how careful I am, break at the slightest pull.
Been pricing replacement parts, and looks like new lifters are out of the question, $500 for a set, lord have mercy! Doing what I think is normal components to replace: H2O pump, fuel pump/filter/FPR, belt, oil pump, timing set, rings, needs new fan and clutch, coil/plugs/wires, and change trans filter (plus add an external spin-on trans filter in the engine bay).
Question, the ring kit comes with crank and rod bearings, good thought to change those out as well while I'm at it? The ring kit comes with them from RockAuto.

Kirk
 






410Fortune

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Kirk

The ohv engine was used from 89-2000
Your 93 is an early version
In 95 they were updated with stronger heads
The 98-2000 OHV engines use a 8 bolt crank and lots of upddates
There are thousands of these engines out there used
You can buy one from a reputable wrecker or even Ebay and get a warranty
Lower miles, good running engine.
Park the newer engine next to your 93 engine, strip them both down to the block and heads, re install with all new gaskets and tune up parts of your choice.

This is usually much cheaper then having an old 93 block with unkown history that you found seized up rebuilt. Rebuild parts are $$$$$$$, used engines are cheap considering
I sell them for $400-800 depending on year and miles
 






MrQ

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^ Seconded,

Just swap it. Those engines are only about 400-ish lbs. Biggest pain in the ass is getting the transmission off, but the engines themselves are dirt-simple to pull. With a few extra hands I was able to pull two OHV engines and drop one in within two days.

Just grab a bunch of zip ties and use them on broken connectors to hold them together. All the injector connectors on my 98 V8 are held on by zip ties because they broke so easy. :laugh:

Be aware that 95 and up engines have EGR and 94's do not.
 






410Fortune

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It does not matter the EGR will be deleted from whatever engine he gets if he converts it to the 93 setup/intakes and manifolds
93 is nice, no EGR and no cam synchro
 






massacre

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^ Seconded,

Just swap it. Those engines are only about 400-ish lbs. Biggest pain in the ass is getting the transmission off, but the engines themselves are dirt-simple to pull. With a few extra hands I was able to pull two OHV engines and drop one in within two days.

Just grab a bunch of zip ties and use them on broken connectors to hold them together. All the injector connectors on my 98 V8 are held on by zip ties because they broke so easy. :laugh:

Be aware that 95 and up engines have EGR and 94's do not.

My 94 has EGR?
 






roscoe 0202

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they're easy to pull and install I've done twice by myself on a 2.9 bronco II
roscoe
 






MrQ

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Centaurious

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Quick and dirty rebuild would be to un-freeze the motor, pull the heads, put each piston at the bottom of the bore and ball hone the cylinder, wipe the bore and put piston at the top, blow compressed air around the piston, replace head gaskets and enjoy at least 30,000 miles. Adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel for several tanks helps as well. I'm not saying "I" ever did this while dirt broke.
 






kirkallen143

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Do appreciate all the suggestions, fellers. Got the engine pulled tonight. Number 2 is the only cylinder with rust on the walls. Tried to inspect head gasket, but it looks OK. Rocker arms still moved, lifters appeared to be stuck. WD40'd everything on top and will let it set for the night. Will pull the oil pan tomorrow and see what that looks like and try to turn engine over, hopefully. Keep ya updated.

Kirk
 






kirkallen143

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Now I am down to a bare block. The crank and rod bearings are what were keeping the engine from turning over, pistons are OK, no funny wear on skirts. Going to ball-hone and re-ring with new bearings. Only had one valve that was stuck, #1 exhaust side, fixed, and heads look good for 147,000 miles. Piston pins needed a little encouragement, but I got those lubed up and working fine. Camshaft and lifter worked after a soak in PB Blaster, and cam bearing look good, too. Oil pump seemed to work like it should, contemplating if I should install a new one, or not. Water jackets on driver's side had a lot of green jelly right where the water pump attaches to block, everywhere else looked fine.

Kirk
 






kirkallen143

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Question, Haynes says that rod bolts are torque to yield, Ford discontinued them, no can find on the internet. Someone suggested that 302 rod bolts would work, but the guy who tried them said they were too short (searched on here). What about the 2.9 V6 rod bolts? ARP has them for $50 or so, and they share the same bearings. Anyone have a clue? How about just use the stock rod bolts? Who has rebuilt and done the same? I heard the crank bolt is TTY, but I saw those on ebay. Already have new head bolts. Appreciate it fellers.

Kirk
 






410Fortune

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2.9 SHOULD be similar, but maybe some research/compare part numbers before ordering?
What about SOHC engine rod bolts? Maybe the same TTY bolt?
I am not sure just thinking out loud here
 






kirkallen143

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Going through 64 pages on a thread in "Under the hood" section, found the rod bolts that have been used: ARP 154-6022. They only come as a pair, so you have to order 6 packages. Glad that's over...

Kirk
 






kirkallen143

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Hope all's Christmas and New Years went well, and only good things to come in 2019!

Well, once I started cleaning the heads, I found out why no antifreeze in radiator...big crack in head at water jacket between #1 and #2 cylinder. That would explain why the rust in #2 cylinder as noted before. Did not even worry about looking at the driver's side cylinder head...
Gave Odessa Cylinder-Heads a call and have two new heads coming my way. Called the local machinist and he will acid dip block, resurface it, and install new freeze plugs and cam bearings (as long as I supply them). To resurface he quoted me $100, extra for the plugs and bearings installs. Placed order and got everything I needed at RockAuto, plus new pushrods, too. Now I will be into this engine money-wise @ $1100 (rebuild kit, heads, machining), still cheaper than a long block, so far. With the Good Lord willing, hopefully I will have a dependable motor for this explorer after it's all said and done.
Thought I would keep y'all updated...

Kirk
 



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410Fortune

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Nice! How many miles on the transmission? Is it an Auto?
 






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