94 ABS system | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free! This box and some ads will disappear once registered!

94 ABS system

tjsxplodr

Explorer Addict
Joined
July 26, 2009
Messages
1,113
Reaction score
0
City, State
Idaho
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Ford Explorer XLT
Is the 94 ABS system the 4 wheel abs or rear wheel abs? Also, I got a code 63 when I tested it, pump motor. Where exactly is the pump motor located and what does it look like?

I'm having issues with my brakes....I have to put the pedal all the way down to the floor to get any braking. Also, the lights won't come on until the pedal is floored. Is there something really wrong????
 
<

Join the Elite Explorers $20 Gets rid of the ads!

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.




Roadrunner777

Explorer Addict
Joined
February 5, 2011
Messages
2,030
Reaction score
299
City, State
Bemidji, MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 4x4 Sport 88k
The '94 has sensors for the each of the front wheels and the rear diff, so it's 4 wheel ABS, sort-of. I haven't really worked out how the back would behave if one or the other rear wheel locks up.

The pump motor is part of the hydraulic package, which is in the engine compartment, front drivers corner, low. You will see brake lines going to it, and a cylindrical motor looking thing as part of it. That is, in fact, the pump motor. I suspect you would need to replace the hydraulic unit as a package, which... well, make sure you are sitting before you see the price of that unit.

Low brake pedal is either air in the lines, or the back brakes need adjustment/attention. The brake lights (you mean the exterior brake lights) work by a switch located under the dash at the pedal. It is apparently broken or loose or something.

If you mean the brake warning light, that is probably low brake fluid at the master cylinder reservoir.
 
<



Currency

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 11, 2009
Messages
611
Reaction score
3
City, State
Bedford Indiana
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 XLT 4x4
My pedal has always been a bit different from anything I have ever driven. While I can push it to the floor, I don't have to in order to stop. There are times in which I swear I am pressing the brake, easing onto it, and slowing down because of it without my brake lights kicking on until the pedal is pressed further down.

Now when bleeding air out of the system, if the vehicle is not running it will hit the floor. The system is not powered until the vehicle is running. You can also take it to the dealer and have the entire braking system bled. Cost me $79.95 for a complete flush, bled and fill.

The hydraulic unit is expensive. I would recommend jacking it up and checking all of the brakes, front and rear. If your using fluid check the rear wheel cylinders which may be bad and leaking. It may just be a sensor or something, just a guess. So I would check everything out before shelling out the kind of cash they charge for that unit. I almost had a heart attack when I was told the price. Had my system bled and got a firmer pedal but I still do not think it is where it should be. When I say I had the system bled, I paid to get the braking system and hydraulic unit bled it requires a certain tool which I did not have.

Its about time for new front pads on mine again. Other than the brake lines and rear drums, and that expensive unit. I have replaced everything else brake related on my explorer bad or not.
 
<



tjsxplodr

Explorer Addict
Joined
July 26, 2009
Messages
1,113
Reaction score
0
City, State
Idaho
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Ford Explorer XLT
Yeah, I saw how much the hydraulic unit costs...OMFG lol. Guess its time to take it in for a brake fluid flush and fill, have the lines checked and have the rear drums serviced. I haven't done that since I bought it. You said it only cost you $80 at the Ford dealer to flush and fill? Wow, that amazes me.

I'm not losing any brake fluid.
 
<



tjsxplodr

Explorer Addict
Joined
July 26, 2009
Messages
1,113
Reaction score
0
City, State
Idaho
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Ford Explorer XLT
Well, took it in, shop said everything looked fine. No cracks or any bad lines. He adjusted the rear drums a little and that seems to help some. However, I AM going to have the system bled when I have the $80 they want to charge me.

Stupid ABS light keeps going on/off/on/off. I'm betting its a sensor....BUT the code I got when I tested it said #63 which is the pump motor....good gravy. Think I might just take the light bulb out of the dash and not worry about it.
 
<



<



tjsxplodr

Explorer Addict
Joined
July 26, 2009
Messages
1,113
Reaction score
0
City, State
Idaho
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Ford Explorer XLT
So far, I'm not happy with it either. I'm gonna pull relays and fuses. THEN, I might just do what you said you might do....get rid of it altogether.

How would I go about 'plumbing' the lines together?? Is it difficult?
 
<



Roadrunner777

Explorer Addict
Joined
February 5, 2011
Messages
2,030
Reaction score
299
City, State
Bemidji, MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 4x4 Sport 88k
Not really, it's making flares and fittings. But... the reality is that, if you are going to mess with lines, you should buy new brake line stock and replace what is on the truck right now. I did some work last month on brake lines and the existing lines get very fragile after 15 years of rust and vibration. Chances are, when you unscrew a fitting on a line, it's going to be corroded to the line and just twist off.

I did replace some lines, first time I ever did it, the guy at the parts store showed me how to make flares and bend line. It's easy, and the materials are cheap. I will end up replacing all my brake lines at some point.
 
<



tjsxplodr

Explorer Addict
Joined
July 26, 2009
Messages
1,113
Reaction score
0
City, State
Idaho
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Ford Explorer XLT
Ahh. I see. I won't be doing the brake line changing until I get more money.
 
<



DeRocha

NEX Vice President
Elite Explorer
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
July 5, 2003
Messages
6,671
Reaction score
42
City, State
Brockton, MA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'93 XLT 4x4
If the Yellow ABS warning light comes on it means the ABS computer detected some fault in the system and has disabled ABS braking (normal braking is not affected).

If you're braking is poor then you need to ensure air hasn't entered the system. Once air gets into the Master cylinder it can be a HUGE PITA to get out.. It's even a bigger pain if the air is trapped inside the ABS Hydraulic control unit has you will need to cycle it's solenoids on/off in order to get the air & fluid through the unit.

Whenever I work on my brakes and crack open a bleeder valve or line I ensure the brake fluid reservoir is maxed out..
 
<



Currency

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 11, 2009
Messages
611
Reaction score
3
City, State
Bedford Indiana
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 XLT 4x4
Same here DeRocha.

I generally check my fluid level about once every week or two. I did bench bleed my master cylinder when I replaced it last fall. Brakes had felt the same even after changing the master cylinder.

That is when I went to the dealer and had the entire braking system bled, which included the hydraulic unit. I have a thread in here somewhere regarding it. My pedal felt better afterwards but I still do not think it is as good as it should be. Perhaps it is just me. But yes, $80 is what I paid for the braking system and ABS hydraulic unit to be bled at the dealer.

A wheel bearing issue I was having caused my rotor to rub the front driver side ABS sensor unit, it is very noticeable. That caused my ABS light to come on and go off when cornering at decent speeds. It has been fixed now.
 
<



tjsxplodr

Explorer Addict
Joined
July 26, 2009
Messages
1,113
Reaction score
0
City, State
Idaho
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Ford Explorer XLT
Well, the stupid light has gone off for now. It will come on occasionally, so I'm thinking maybe a sensor..who knows.
 
<



Roadrunner777

Explorer Addict
Joined
February 5, 2011
Messages
2,030
Reaction score
299
City, State
Bemidji, MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 4x4 Sport 88k
We had our first snow yesterday, roads got wet before it froze up, so good ABS test conditions. My Contour had ABS too, and I have been puzzled over the difference in performance. I noticed today the Explorer is much faster to activate, too fast in my opinion.

But, I should explain something for my non-extreme winter cohorts:

Back in my growing up days in California, we would go skiing and if there was significant snow or ice, they required tire chains or 4wd/snow tires. This made fair sense to me... even an idiot with tire chains has a decent chance of staying on the road.

Minnesota, and most of the upper midwest from what I can tell, considers chains a crutch. No, it's really that chains tear up the road and, well, yes, they are a crutch.

There is an art to driving on ice and snow. You accept that you will slip and drift a certain amount, and as years pass, you can fairly predict and perhaps even enjoy it a little bit. If you do not have a drivers license from the upper states, I'm not sure you would understand, but it is what it is.

Oh well, it's still early in the season, and no more icy roads until maybe Thanksgiving. I do know my Traction-Lok is blown, and it became obvious yesterday trying to pull away on ice and only one rear wheel spinning. So, parts on order: Ford Racing clutch pack. (I wonder if I will get a sticker to put in my window, that would be cool.) Splurging on a Riddler ductile iron diff cover. Man I wish I had a heated garage!
 
<



Top