Solved - '94 aftermarket radio | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Solved '94 aftermarket radio

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.


Well-Known Member
September 23, 2013
Reaction score
City, State
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 Mazda Navajo
I finally got my radio in. Was easier than I thought.

Disclaimer: I'm not much a fan of entertainment systems in a car, so I got a 40 dollar radio from Amazon and threw out the amp in the back. This solution uses the original speakers and harness, and there is no need to rip out any door panels and break your finger with pulling cables into a door.

The install is pretty simple. What you need is 8' of cable organizer tube***, 40' of speaker cable (not the big monster stuff!) and Dead Link Removed - this one is also valid for the Navajo .

Tools needed: Panel clip puller, Phillips screw driver, cable cutter, soldering iron (>25W), shrink tubes, insulation tape, cable stripper (optional - I still use my teeth), small torx bit, Dead Link Removed torx bit with wrench and breaker bar (for the seat belts).

Take out the rear panel. You have to take out the seatbelt in the back (top), front (top and bottom) and the quarter window lock. Once the panel is loose, you'll see the amp at the wheel well. I took it out completely. The cable harness on the top is the output that you want to connect to the radio. The bottom one is the input from the radio. You can cut the latter.

Take out the fascia right of the passenger seat and the right kick panel, as well as the glove box.

Cut the speaker into four pieces. Mark both sides with colored tape to not mix them up. Push the cables in the tube. The eight feet tube is enough to reach from the radio hole to the cavity in front of the rear wheel well. Underneath the fascia right to the passenger seat runs a cable well, covered with plastic. The organizer hose fits right in there.

Push the whole set from the radio cavity through the whole behind the glove box, pass it by the computer behind the kick panel, down the cable well next to the passenger seat. Pull the amp harness forward (you'll have to cut one or to fastening clips). It is long enough to reach to the passenger door.

Now simply solder the speaker cables to the amp and radio harness - don't forget shrink tube. Replace all the panels and you're done.

Took me roughly 90 minutes (including explanations to my son what I was doing there).

***This is for the 2-door. Dunno how much you'll need of the extra door.

Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!

The main reason people run new wiring to the door speakers is to get a lower gauge wire. I think the speaker wires in the ex are about 18 gauge. A lower gauge would be better.

Good guide though!

I'd think you only need a lower gauge if you run a high power amp. The stock cables can handle the measly power my stereo lets out.

That's true, but most people switch the amp when they run new wiring. :P

The stock wiring from the radio to the amp is actually super-thin signal wire rather than the slightly thicker speaker wire from the amp to the speakers, so running speaker wire straight from the head unit to the speakers does have a benefit. It also keeps you from having to use the amplifier bypass, and having lots of connectors in the system.