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How to: 94 Explorer Motor Mounts Replaced

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Number4

"I'm counting to 3, then I'm getting your dad."
Elite Explorer
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City, State
Woodstock, GA
Year, Model & Trim Level
04 Ford Explorer 4.6l
So with my engine out I was wanting to replace the motor mounts. Ex only has 137K or so on it, but I figured now was the time to do it.

I searched the forums and the only thing I could find was a 'how-to' on a V8 model. And reading that just about made me roll the carcass out into the back 40 and give it up to the blackberry bushes :roll:.

But I'm not one to give up easily. Now, this is an easy job, beginner work. But it's mentally tasking on the passenger mount. If your engine isn't out, you'll have to support it from above with a hoist or from below using a jack. I don't believe the jack will be in the way.

Tools you'll need:

  • 1/2 Drive impact extensions. I purchased a 67972 from Harbor Freight for $9.99. Of this set, I used the 9 1/4" and 4 1/4" extensions. A single 15" extension would have also worked. (Drivers side only)
  • 18mm impact socket. Not a deep one, it must be short but still deep enough to go over the bolt. I purchased a metric set from NAPA (61-0302,) but you could just get the one socket. The individual NAPA socket is 61-4118. This fits, can't say about other brands.
  • 1/2 Drive Flex Head Ratchet. I purchased a R12FQR from NAPA, it's 18" long. I also have a smaller 3/8" drive flex head, but it wasn't long enough (12" maybe) and didn't allow for enough "swing" <-- you'll find this funny later. You may try a stubby ratchet, it might work. I don't have one, so can't tell you. (Passenger side only)
  • 1/2" Drive Wobble from Harbor Freight, item 67920. A universal joint would have worked as well. (Drivers side only)
  • 3/8 hand ratchet. I used this with a regular 18mm socket to hand tighten the passenger side nut as much as possible. This too isn't really necessary, but if you don't have one, you should. I've had this for over a decade, also from NAPA, it's a NB15 but may not be that number now (The linked pic looks like the one I have, though mines 3/8".) (Passenger side only)
  • 1/2 Drive Impact Gun. I suppose this isn't necessary, you could use a ratchet. But with the impact gun, I had the drivers side nut off in a matter of seconds. Same with putting it on. (Drivers side only)
I think that's all the tools, they're all pictured if I missed one.

I started with the passenger side. Laying with your head toward the transmission and your stomach at the passenger wheel, you can look up behind the coil spring and frame and see the motor mount nut. The lower nut, is for the frame. I took it off first and was all excited. Then got stumped when the mount wouldn't budge. The motor mount nut is further up.
Using the 1/2" drive flex head ratchet and just the 18mm socket you can reach the motor mounts nut. You can see my approach from the back. You get an awesome swing (yeah right.) You get ONE click with the ratchet. Really, even with just one click, this didn't take too long. Maybe I was just too excited that I wasn't going to have to remove the front axle. You need the flex head ratchet to maximize the swing. Up to the left, down to the right. ONE click. Now, some ratchets have finer mechanisms than others, I have no idea what the NAPA ratchet has, but it works. Cheaper ratchets may not allow for the one click that you desperately need.
That's it for the passenger side. Just time to remove and time to install. Go ahead and try all sorts of other combinations of tools, I did and they didn't work. Now, you can buy an 18mm socket/wobble combination and this may allow the use of the impact gun. Try coming up from below, between the drive axle and the frame.

The drivers side, oh boy. I wasn't looking forward to this side, thought it would be the hardest. Wrong. For this one, I laid lengthwise with the car, having my head at the drivers side wheel. From here, using the 15" (total length) extension(s), the wobble and 18mm socket, you can reach between the shock and the frame and get to the nut comfortably. Then just attach the impact gun and give it some smackage. It helps to go forward and reverse at first to help loosen it up. Once it was loose, the nut zipped off as fast as the gun would go.
To install, find a 72 lbs. kid to sit in the engine bay and hold it in place. Then using the hand ratchet, tighten the nut (start it) as much as possible. Then it's just a matter of zipping it back on with the impact gun. You'll be done with the drivers side before you know it.

That's it, fairly simple actually. The car was on the ground as well, that is, I didn't have it jacked up. Mainly because I had the trans supported with a trans jack and didn't want to mess with it. I was wondering if you'd get a greater swing on the passenger side if the hub was hanging down. Hope this helps someone else.

1 Pass Mount Ratchet.jpg

2 Clseup Ratchet.jpg

3 Pass Mount Out.jpg

4 Pass Mount Out Eng Bay.jpg

5 Pass Old and New Mount.jpg

6 Pass Mount New Install.jpg
 



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Second set of pictures. 1st pic is the passenger side nut back on. Then it's the drivers side nut, and nut removed. Followed by the extension access and gun attached.

7 Pass Mount New Nut On.jpg

13 Drv Side Nut on New Mount.jpg

10 Drv Side Mount Bolt View.jpg

11 Drv Side Mount Nut w_Extnsns.jpg

12 Drv Side Mount Nut w_Extnsns and Impact.jpg

9 Drv Side Mount Out.jpg
 






3rd set of pictures. Anyone know how to post more than 6 pics being Elite?
I don't like using Photobucket, because I want the pictures to be permanent.

20 Both Mounts In.jpg

14 Drv Side Tools.jpg

15 HF Extensions.jpg

20 Wobble.jpg

18 1_2 Drv Flex Head Ratchet.jpg


20 Both Mounts In.jpg
 












Nice video. Interesting on the passenger side. I tried all those angles and the u-joint was at too much of an angle to turn for me. Would have been nice. I'll assume that you found little resistance on these just as I did. The nuts are fairly protected due to the location.
 






Yea, they weren't super rusted on or anything. Although, mine doesn't have much rust up front, even down low. Partially due to the copious amounts of ATF & oil having leaked onto the frame but while the vehicle saw a lot of snow, I guess it never got much salt. I think mine even had less rust than yours.

Do keep in mind, mine's a 1991 and I didn't care too much about breaking a u-joint since I bought the cheapest one on eBay (Armstrong brand). The tools you bought are better. It's a good idea to use an impact swivel joint and an impact socket.

I also don't know if I mentioned it in my video or not but I did end up having to get the angle grinder on the guide pins/dowels on the top of the mount. They were cut flat and we had a helluva time trying to drop the engine back in. I got the grinder and made the pins pointy and the engine brackets dropped right in after that. Might have been cheap mounts, the pins looked like they were angled. Just something to keep in mind and lessen the trouble.

I don't know that my engine mounts needed to be replaced though. At 229k, the engine had never been pulled before and the mounts were still solid. They were softer compared to the new ones but I would have been fine re-using them. Unless you pull the engine, I don't really think it's worth the hassle replacing them. They're cheap enough so if you yank the engine, it's worthwhile.
 






I replaced mine recently on my 94 because they were worn out and allowing the engine to rotate too much for my liking. This was the second time in the 20 years I have owned this Explorer. I replaced them with the TTB and after the SAS and don't really remember there being too much trouble with either job. After the SAS, it was real easy. The second time, I cut out the rivet and ran a bolt through there with a small amount of tension with a locking nut to reduce the possibility of them coming apart on the trail. With the TTB, if you jack it up or put it on a lift, allowing the suspension to unload, it gives you much more room to get to the lower bolts. Removing the plastic inner fenders also helps access the top bolts.
 






Well, according to Haynes, you just remove them and install them. All the while using one hand to sip your tea. Best Haynes instructions ever. Would be interesting to see what a Ford Workshop manual said.
 






I love the Haynes manuals for that. It takes longer to find the page with the info than it does to read the instructions and when you do read them, it says "remove the module" but no more detail! No tricks or tips, no step-by-step. Granted, many of us figure a way out but having an idea of what to do is always helpful. I'll whip out my FSM and see what Ford says. Then we'll have a definitive perfect motor mount tutorial.
 






Well, according to Haynes, you just remove them and install them. All the while using one hand to sip your tea. Best Haynes instructions ever.

:D:D
I quit reading Haynes many years ago, and only use them now for torque specification reference. I don't drink tea very often, but it if makes it easier to work on vehicles, then I am in..:thumbsup:

I usually just keep taking parts off until I can get to whatever it is I am trying to fix. This method is NOT recommended for beginners.
 






Here's the word straight from the good book itself; (click for larger size)


 






I guess Haynes just simplified it a little more. Really, only the passenger side is dificult. Drivers side was pretty straight forward and easy.
 






I have a 94 limited. I was having the motor mounts replaced and the ones that came out are 100% different. So now I'm at a point of not knowing what to do. Has anyone heard of options or changes to the motor mounts that I am missing?
 






Do the new mounts line up with the same studs as on the old mounts? The best solution you are going to find is to get ahold of @Brian1 and have him make you a set of his mounts.
 






I have a 94 limited. I was having the motor mounts replaced and the ones that came out are 100% different. So now I'm at a point of not knowing what to do. Has anyone heard of options or changes to the motor mounts that I am missing?
The picture with the black box in center fits 1995 and up. The other is 1994 and earlier.
Do either of these sets look like yours?

38B472DF-BBBF-43A3-8451-F60F883E12AB.jpeg


79802079-D2A2-4248-9408-702C64C23774.jpeg
 






Do the new mounts line up with the same studs as on the old mounts? The best solution you are going to find is to get ahold of @Brian1 and have him make you a set of his mounts.
No, per the Ford dealership that do not. The ones I ordered are the same ones that get pulled up from the parts list at ford with matching part numbers. I would attach a photo of them but I'm not sure how haha.
 






The same mounts are for the 1991-1994 Explorers, and a whole range of other Ranger based vehicles from the Bronco II to the Mazda pickups. I would go to rockauto.com and order a set from them. They are easy to change out if you have a floor jack, a piece of 4x6 or 6x6 scrap lumber, and a few wrenches.
 






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