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94 Explorer, pulled codes, fixed, new codes

natenkiki2004

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If you need a shorting bar, let me know, I've got a few of them. I will say from personal experience that mine was missing and I was getting around 10MPG. With one in, it is at 12-13MPG. I'm sure I still have engine performance issues but what you gotta think of is "why?". Why was it removed in the first place? In my case, it was due to severe engine pinging. I can run with the shorting bar in place and with premium gas and get the occasional ping on a hot day under load or remove the shorting bar and use cheap gas but it still pings. I think it's more of a problem with the early PCM's in lean burn mode once the transmission shifts into OD, it will immediately start pinging. So you're going to have to run some tests to see if you have to run premium or if you want poor gas mileage.
 
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92exp4x4

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92 XL 2-door and others
I found the plug for the Octane bar, can't find the shorting bar and none of the parts stores carry them so I guess I will try the salvage for that. How can I tell if the intake manifold is leaking(hoping for a miracle here)? The file is really good natenkiki2004 and easy to follow, but does look a little intimidating to me. Have to replace the drivers electric window regulator, any advice is sure appreciated here, especially concerning not having the spring take and arm off!!! And are a lot of the parts for 91-95's interchangeable? Have made some real progress on this so far thanks to this forum, I really appreciate your advice and willingness to share your experience so freely. I checked the resistance on the sending unit for the fuel gauge and got 22.5 with over half a tank, so I'm guessing the sending unit is bad. Now I need to get my mileage better than 10mpg! O;ne thing at a time, right?
Thanks so much.

Use some brake cleaner and spray the seems of the intake manifolds. If the engine is sucking air then you may notice a change in rpm while it's running. I have had some success with this technique on this engine. Older engines react more to this test. Just keep in mind that any air getting past the MAF, can cause pinging. This includes throttle body seals, a bad vacuum line, etc. Think about any point in which unmetered air could get into the intake stream.
 
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natenkiki2004

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1991 & 1994 Explorers
Use some brake cleaner and spray the seems of the intake manifolds. If the engine is sucking air then you may notice a change in rpm while it's running. I have had some success with this technique on this engine. Older engines react more to this test. Just keep in mind that any air getting past the MAF, can cause pinging. This includes throttle body seals, a bad vacuum line, etc. Think about any point in which unmetered air could get into the intake stream.
I know for a fact that this wouldn't do anything on mine. I've replaced the throttle body gasket, IAC gasket, upper intake gasket, fuel rail gasket, lower intake gasket, have new o-rings on new injectors, all new silicone vacuum lines with several deleted lines. It still pings. New timing chain, swapped ICM, tested fuel pressure... still pings. It's gotta be inherent in either high mileage Explorers or early ones due to teething issues in the PCM. I wonder if mine is a CA compliant model that maybe burns leaner or something?

All that said, still always a good idea to check for vacuum leaks if you're unsure.
 
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92exp4x4

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I know for a fact that this wouldn't do anything on mine. I've replaced the throttle body gasket, IAC gasket, upper intake gasket, fuel rail gasket, lower intake gasket, have new o-rings on new injectors, all new silicone vacuum lines with several deleted lines. It still pings. New timing chain, swapped ICM, tested fuel pressure... still pings. It's gotta be inherent in either high mileage Explorers or early ones due to teething issues in the PCM. I wonder if mine is a CA compliant model that maybe burns leaner or something?

All that said, still always a good idea to check for vacuum leaks if you're unsure.

Man, I don't know. At one point it was in spec then something changed. Could you have a lazy O2 sensor that's not bad enough to cause a code? Does the plastic intake tube have a crack? I'm sure you checked all that. I've been able to cure several of these machines with what you listed or less. As well as other engines, although the brake cleaner test has not been the most successful on these engines.
 
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natenkiki2004

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Man, I don't know. At one point it was in spec then something changed. Could you have a lazy O2 sensor that's not bad enough to cause a code? Does the plastic intake tube have a crack? I'm sure you checked all that. I've been able to cure several of these machines with what you listed or less. As well as other engines, although the brake cleaner test has not been the most successful on these engines.
That's 2 more things I forgot in the previous post; I have a new old stock factory OEM O2 sensor and swapped the intake tube from my 1994 (one-piece design). No change. I did do the O2 early on, just for shits and giggles since I read that O2 sensors can get lazy and I figured it was good preventative maintenance. Anyway, my sob story is off topic, I just wanted to throw that in since pinging may not ever fully go away, it's a complaint a lot of people have on these engines.
 
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92exp4x4

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That's 2 more things I forgot in the previous post; I have a new old stock factory OEM O2 sensor and swapped the intake tube from my 1994 (one-piece design). No change. I did do the O2 early on, just for shits and giggles since I read that O2 sensors can get lazy and I figured it was good preventative maintenance. Anyway, my sob story is off topic, I just wanted to throw that in since pinging may not ever fully go away, it's a complaint a lot of people have on these engines.

Agreed, it's just frustrating to know the system is designed to work with certain results and it's not. Not knowing why drives me nuts.
 
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paulha

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Just a little update, checked mileage today 14.3, still don't have shorting bar may go to pull-a-part and get one tomorrow, need a door panel anyway. Also replaced the BOO switch, will try codes again this weekend. Found out (at this point anyway) that the glass on the drivers side was coming out of the bracket that attaches it to the regulator, not sure what they tried to use before. This time I wrapped some silicone tape over the bottom edge and tapped it into the bracket, is holding for now so fingers crossed. The more I fix and drive this thing the more I get hooked on it. Lol Thanks again for so very much help.
 
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92exp4x4

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The more I fix and drive this thing the more I get hooked on it. Lol Thanks again for so very much help.

Therein lies the disease of which we suffer!

The window glass is epoxied to the bracket. You can get the glass out fairly easily. Once out, get ya some 5 minute epoxy and stick it back together. I have one to do on my JP explorer. The passenger side front.
 
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paulha

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Therein lies the disease of which we suffer!

The window glass is epoxied to the bracket. You can get the glass out fairly easily. Once out, get ya some 5 minute epoxy and stick it back together. I have one to do on my JP explorer. The passenger side front.
The window glass is still holding, but I do have and have used the 5 min epoxy, that is wonderful stuff. Pulled codes again only two this time,
KOEO:
341
Memory
111
KOER
536
Put in shorting bar, and checked the voltage at the LG/R and the LG wires as per and earlier post I read and these are good. What else should I test to find the reason for the 536 code? The ABS light is still on also, could these be the same issue? My code reader won't read ABS codes so am looking for the next step. Anyone else have this issue? Replaced the master cylinder so I am pretty sure that switch is good.
 
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natenkiki2004

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paulha

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You gotta figure out why the computer isn't seeing the brake switch and the ABS code might be key in that. Check this:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...ll-trouble-codes-on-4wabs-very-simple.258803/
Ok "natenkiki2004" tried to read the codes as per the thread you sent me( by the way, thank you) and the light doesn't actually blink enough to see any codes, just stays on? Cleaned the contacts on the ABS connector just to be sure and the same results. It does dim ever so slightly, maybe with a magnifying glass I might be able to see a little flutter but I doubt it. So I'm still on the hunt. I'm gonna find that wabbit if it's the wast thing I do!
 
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paulha

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Ok "natenkiki2004" tried to read the codes as per the thread you sent me( by the way, thank you) and the light doesn't actually blink enough to see any codes, just stays on? Cleaned the contacts on the ABS connector just to be sure and the same results. It does dim ever so slightly, maybe with a magnifying glass I might be able to see a little flutter but I doubt it. So I'm still on the hunt. I'm gonna find that wabbit if it's the wast thing I do!

I tried again to read the codes off of the ABS diagnostic connector and still can't get anything. The ABS light on the dash stays on, doesn't blink at all! Put in shorting bar and my mileage has gone down to 10 mpg? As I am new to this vehicle any suggestions would be appreciated. Tried searching forums with no luck, thanks in advance.
Paul
 
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92exp4x4

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I tried again to read the codes off of the ABS diagnostic connector and still can't get anything. The ABS light on the dash stays on, doesn't blink at all! Put in shorting bar and my mileage has gone down to 10 mpg? As I am new to this vehicle any suggestions would be appreciated. Tried searching forums with no luck, thanks in advance.
Paul

My van is doing this. It won't communicate with my scan tool. I'm not sure what's going on with it.
 
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larrydd999

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92 XLT, 94 Limited
Ignoring the codes issue for the moment, have you done a 'tune-up' and specifically have you looked at the spark plugs? With the relatively low MPG I would think you would have some buildup on them which may be a clue to what's going on. I keep track of the MPG on our vehicles and one of the signs that it's time to replace the plugs is when it falls off. The '92 gets between 17-20 and the '92 gets 17-19, a bit lower on both with winter gasoline.
 
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paulha

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Explorer XLT 1994
Ignoring the codes issue for the moment, have you done a 'tune-up' and specifically have you looked at the spark plugs? With the relatively low MPG I would think you would have some buildup on them which may be a clue to what's going on. I keep track of the MPG on our vehicles and one of the signs that it's time to replace the plugs is when it falls off. The '92 gets between 17-20 and the '92 gets 17-19, a bit lower on both with winter gasoline.

Thanks for the suggestion, sometimes I overlook the obvious looking for the secret. Don't have any records on this baby so don't know anything. Will pull one of them and see what it looks like. Haven't actually pulled the codes since I put in the shorting bar so may do that and see if anything new there. Want to get ABS working before it gets to cold, never know in Oklahoma when that is going to be.
 
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paulha

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Update, had a small fire in the heater plenum and while fixing that broke heater control valve(sure glad that happened in the driveway in good weather)got that replaced and found a bad relay...so abs light is out and brake seem to be working great. Finall pulled codes and believe it or not I only have two codes left! Codes 172 and 136, is there something that is common to both HO2s? Is there any way to test them or are they just bad and need replacing?
 
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trashtruck

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i may be wrong but its been my experience a lean o2 sensor code is usually an air leak somewhere.
 
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