94 no electrical power

[8th]

Battery has been tested and charged
cables cleaned, terminals replaced
grounds checked, cleaned
starter solonoid replaced
Fuel pump switch has been reset
Fuses/relays are good

The truck had no issues prior to this, I left the key in the "on" position overnight, battery was dead so i had it charged and tested and now im having this issue.

I can get power to the fuse box and allow power to lights, seats.etc if I jump the large ends at the solonoid, I can also activate the starter if I jump the starter wire. When the solonoid is jumped and I leave the starter wire in the original position on the solonoid turning the key activates the starter but there is still no start.

I replaced the fuel pump only a couple weeks ago and has not been giving issues. I do NOT hear the pump run when switched to the "on" position, Plugs and wires are also new but there is no spark, haven't had any rough idling or running issues beforehand. The only thing I can think of now is that some sort of security system has engaged and won't allow it to start? I honestly did not think there was a security system in this truck but with some research I guess there is a module in the quarter panel. I will try messing with that tomorrow but if that doesn't work I'm completely stumped.

 

[Number4]

Try swapping your fuel pump relay with any of the other 6 or so that look just like it. See if you hear the fuel pump hum then.

 

[Gadget X]

Might be a dumb question, but have you checked your fuses? Might be as simple as that. Good luck with it! Also, unhook the battery for 10 or 15 minutes to "reset" the ecm and try it again after that.

 

[8th]

Yes, Im sorry, I forgot to add fuses and relays to the list but yes they are okay. I did leave the battery disconnected overnight yesterday and tried again today but still no luck.

I have found that there is no such anti theft module in the quarter panels, there is only wiring for lights and the 4x4 module.

Today it seemed twice that when i first turn the key to the "on" position that the chime played, such as the door ajar chime. I disconnected all my door sensors a long time ago so it was really odd to hear that sound again. Played twice out of about 20 turns today, not sure if it is relevant but I thought i'd add it.

I also voltage at the pump and its not receiving power. I moved up the wires further and there seems to be a little rectangular black plastic chip of some kind? it comes right after the fuel filter, some wires lead to the chip and the rest go up into the engine bay. Unfortunatly its really rainy today so I wasn't able to do anything more.

 

[larrydd999]

I'd blame the computer or a connection to it. All of the things you've described as working don't require the computer to work. Since the only thing that has happened is a dead battery, and the almost new fuel pump won't run, that's what it suggests to me. See if you can get a fault code - or any codes at all - from it.

 

[8th]

is there a way to test the computer before buying one? being they are kinda expensive...

 

[Number4]

I'd look for where the power trail ends before touching the computer.

 

[8th]

Im not sure what trail I would be looking for that would cause a zero power situation, I mean what else does it go through besides fuses/relays and the computer

 

[Number4]

You need to find where the power stops. These computers don't usually fail.

An obvious point to check would be the ignition switch.

 

[FR-425]

Fuseable link:

 

[8th]

I dont see any fuse links in my wiring, I would think the ign switch would be okay since the switch does crank it over when jumping for power?

 

[2stroke]

There are fusible links under the dash that you can't normally see.

 

[8th]

My dash is entirely removed, the only things I see are a few odd small plastic box items that wires connect to, are any of those what you are talking about?

 

[8th]

Okay so in my mistake I had one of the wires on the relay backwards and it started and is driving fine again... for about an hour and now it just died while driving, trying to start it just gives clicking noises, some sound like relay and some sound like the solonoid. I've been having this problem a lot where suddenly it just doesnt want to start and gives these clicks, I can usually fix it by jumping around wires and eventually it starts but I really dont know what fixes it, happens every couples weeks or so.

 

[mekelly]

You're going to have to be much more methodical with electrical diagnosis and repair than you are right now. As you stated "I can usually fix it by jumping around wires and eventually it starts but I really dont know what fixes it, happens every couples weeks or so." Take it one step at a time and document each step. Try to start it after each attempted repair. You have to start eliminating variables to diagnose the root cause of the problem. Once you have the root cause, you should be able to reliably correct it. Moving a bunch of wires around and then hoping it starts is going to cause you ongoing frustration and hassle!

 

[KEN's Exploder]

Years ago I had a starter solenoid that went out when it got hot. Waited twenty minutes or so and was always able to start her up again. Fix was to replace the starter with faulty solenoid and that took care of it. Had the clicking noise as you described at the turn of the key but no start until it cooled down.

 

[8th]

it is difficult to describe, for example after being stranded and no luck getting it to start i went on home and went back this morning with some tools and daylight to try and get it running, except that without touching anything it started up just fine on the first try. Then it died again halfway home and gave the no start issue again, towed it the rest of the way home. I actually doubt that anything i do actually makes a difference, something is just loose or corroded causing it to act up on its own i think, but im not sure what could cause it to not start and die at random

 

[Wolfie_85]

The only time I ever got just clicks or just a clunk, it was starter related. I'd check the wires and the solenoid out. Check for corrosion anywhere. I would say starter, but it would be far more consistent.

 

[madbutcher]

Starter or alternator are options to

 

[8th]

Starter was replaced a couple months ago, works well if you can get it to go off. I dont know how old the alternator is, battery currently has 11 volts, is that still too low to start? or cause it to die? Normally I would have 14 volts..

going to keep cleaning up corrosion and rust areas for now