94 XLT front radius arm bushings | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

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94 XLT front radius arm bushings

RustyMacintosh

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PO did the front end on this XLT. I see red bushing on the radius arm,. but shinny spots on the metal, which indicates to me the arm is moving.

I was told, I can use a come-along to pull the front axle forward enough to slip in new bushings in front, then let it come back where I would put a bushing on the back, then hit that 28mm nut with an impact wrench.


Doable?
 



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DeRocha

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I've heard about the come along fix before but have never tried it. I ended up removing the Radius Arm frame brackets and going that route.
 






Roadrunner777

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I also removed the brackets. It's probably a toss-up the first time around because of the labor in removing the bracket rivets, but if you go the bracket route, it pays off anytime you have to do it again later because it's just a bolt-on. The rivets really aren't that bad if you have a die grinder and patience.
 






RustyMacintosh

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I also removed the brackets. It's probably a toss-up the first time around because of the labor in removing the bracket rivets, but if you go the bracket route, it pays off anytime you have to do it again later because it's just a bolt-on. The rivets really aren't that bad if you have a die grinder and patience.

Taking the EX to the shop....there are some things that is beyond my abilities...brain surgery, spacewalks, foot odor, and the like....
 






410Fortune

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remove the brackets with a grinder, dropping the beams takes longer and pulling everything apart with a come along is a bad idea IMO because you will be stressing the pivot bushings and tie rod ends
remove the rivets and replace with grade 5 or 8 hardware, it is the best way UNLESS your front end also needs a rebuild, in that case drop both beams out of the truck and have at it
 






smegun

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PO did the front end on this XLT. I see red bushing on the radius arm,. but shinny spots on the metal, which indicates to me the arm is moving.

I was told, I can use a come-along to pull the front axle forward enough to slip in new bushings in front, then let it come back where I would put a bushing on the back, then hit that 28mm nut with an impact wrench.


Doable?
there is a grade 8 bolt mod I had to do this twice the autozone bushings were crumbling I used energy suspension much better no probs didn't have a come along easy enough mod u have to grind down about 4 rivets then pop them through
 






RustyMacintosh

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Yeah I don't like the idea of a come-along. That suggestion was from some clown at Pepboys. I got the parts in yesterday. The EX is going to the shop to have the rivets removed. I want it done right now sloppy.
 






410Fortune

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yes grind the heads of the rivets flush with the bracket, make sure the weight of the truck is off the suspension (jack stands on frame) and then pop the rivets through.
Make sure you spray any exposed metal with paint before re installation
I like the OEM rubber style bushings, the urethane do not flex as well.
Also a good idea to pick up new nylon spacers (the white parts) if they did not come with your new bushing kit
 






shran

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I stopped using polyurethane bushings when I had one from O'Reilly's explode when I tightened the radius arm nut (by hand!) They are trash. IMO poly bushings in general are garbage and I only use them if I have no other option.

I replace radius arm bushings by first removing the coil spring and loosening the pinch bolts, which allows the radius arm to rotate out of its bracket. Just my preference, I think it's easier than grinding rivets off, but either way is perfectly acceptable.
 






smegun

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real rubber ford part probly best I was referring to energy suspension yes there harder than the rubber but they were much better than the ones at the part store that just crumbled away cant handle any grease eats the bond of the material
 






410Fortune

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you mean you loosen the pivot bolts?

Do you need a come along to pull the radius arms forward enough to clear the brackets?
 






shran

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Nope, the pinch bolts - the one directly under the coil spring and on the bottom side of the beam/radius arm. They hold the beam and radius arm together. Loosen them a little, let the beam drop down, and you can get the radius arm out of its bracket pretty easily. Helps to have the steering disconnected and the brake caliper has to come off for sure. I have never had to use a come along... probably have done 20 or more radius arm bushings using this method.
 






410Fortune

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I see
I cannot get those bolts to budge anymore on my TTB truck, the double sided stud is part of the beam..........

Thanks for the tip if I ever do them again on a stock truck I will give that a shot!
 






shran

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Some of them I have to heat up but I haven't failed to get one out yet with my Earthquake impact. Just a little loose so the radius arm can move is all you need.
 






LG57

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I'm getting ready to change these bushings and remove the brackets to do it. What size and length of bolts did you use to reattach the brackets?
 






shran

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IIRC the holes left by the rivers are roughly 3/8"... I'd probably drill them out and use 7/16 or 1/2" bolts. 1-1/2" or so length should be fine.
 






LG57

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Thanks for the quick reply.
 






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