94 XLT Spindle Replacement

[pteepee69]

No sooner than you finish one project and it is time for another. When I bought my XLT a couple of years ago the auto hubs were shot and the inside bearings on the passenger side were completely gone. I mean no bearing in the rotor at all. How the wheel stayed on when I drove it home is beyond me. Replaced the auto hubs with manual Warn hubs. Replaced the inner and outer bearings and races on both sides. When putting the passenger side on I had to beat them on. The spindle, instead of wearing down from the lack of a bearing, swelled. It is time to redo the bearings again. I am starting to get a roaring from the passenger side, which is exaggerated when you turn left.

My plan is to replace the spindle with a new one, replace the spindle bearing and seal, and the inner and outer bearing. I have found a new spindle on broncograveyard.com. Has anyone heard anything about this website before I order the spindle?

 

[arco777]

Google is your friend - just search broncograveyard review.

Here's the first result I got, which sheds light on what people think of them. http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-118054.html

 

[pteepee69]

Just to update this post. I got my spindle within 3 days. I replaced the spindle, spindle bearing and seals, axle shaft u-joint, and inner and outer wheel bearings and races on the passenger side. When I received the spindle from broncograveyard it was a bolt on part. Everything was in it, the bearing and seal. Drove it for a week and each day the roaring in the front kept getting worse. Last Saturday I figured I would re-torque the passenger side and re-pack and torque the drivers side. When I removed the drivers' side I could see a lot of slop in the bearing as well as rust from water contamination and lack of grease.

I continued to drive it through the week as the noise was getting worse. Here is what I have come up with. This is a common problem and I will find out if it is true. The roaring bearing noise sounds like it is coming from the passenger side if you are in the cab. Turning left magnifies the noise but I know everything on the passenger side is new and working smoothly. In another post someone suggested that the TTB front-end set-up could cause the drivers' side bearing roar to sound like it is coming from the passengers' side. Since the drivers' side pivot is bolted to the passengers' side frame. I think this is something to try and solve. Next weekend I hope to replace the drivers side bearings and races to find out if this is what is happening.

 

[pteepee69]

Haven't posted to this thread in awhile. Seems everyone in my family has their birthday from August until the end of the year plus you throw in the holidays= no play money for parts. I haven't driven the Exploder for awhile. Front brakes were wore down pretty far, so I let her sit until after the holidays. Yesterday, I got my front brake pads, and wheel bearings, races and seal for the drivers' side. Also, have a Timkin spindle rebuild kit I had bought last year that is going to go on while it is apart.

 

[pteepee69]

Okay, got it apart and the spindle bearings and seals look good. I have a rebuild kit I bought last year it is Timken SBK4. It looks different than what is on the Exploder. The Timken kit is a 5 piece set. The set that is on it looks fairly new and maybe a problem solver type of part. The Timken set has the metal disc that goes on the axle shaft with the rubber seal that goes over it. Plastic piece that goes inside of it, a seal and bearing that goes in the spindle. What is on the truck already is a metal disc and seal combination that goes on the axle shaft, a plastic piece that snaps on a metal insert, seal and bearing in the spindle. Anybody familiar with this job know what I am looking at and which is the better setup.

 

[Campbell James]

I have the exact same problem but it is on my drivers side that Ive had problems. I know my spindle is good and pretty sure the bearings are decent. But when I took off my hub all the locking nuts were loose. So I tightened them but it still made the roaring noise. So I am completely stumped.

 

[pteepee69]

Okay, rebuilt the drivers' spindle, replaced drivers' side bearings, brakes on both sides. Mystik No.2 grease is now my favorite grease. Took out for a test spin and quite as can be. The tackiness of this grease is unreal. It is like a cross between grease and maple syrup.

 

[Campbell James]

What do you mean you re-built the spindle? I wasn't aware you can do that. I thought if your spindle was ruined you just pulled it off another rig.
And how are the bearings and such doing? still quite?

 

[pteepee69]

I replaced the spindle bearing, spindle seal, and axle shaft seal. And yes, still quiet. If you haven't tried the Mystik No.2 you should.

 

[Anime]

If you use 4x4 a lot, the spindle bearing can wear down and you can get some slop in the front axles, since the spindle bearing is the only thing really centering them in the hub, the hub itself supports the end, but if the bearings are worn, the joints on the axle allow it to wobble, and you evenually get a sloppy setup with a worn spindle bearing and an axle that's moving around in the hub rather than just rotating.

If it was just the wheel bearings, then the locknuts might not have been torqued correctly, sometimes they need to be installed, then driven, then re-installed after a few hours/days of driving to break in, otherwise they wind up either being too tight, which wears the parts down, or too loose.

Tacky grease seems okay, until you're trying to re-grease a part. I haven't tried the Mystik stuff yet (fairly inexpensive at walmart) as I prefer using Hi-temp wheel bearing grease for the wheel bearings. Sometimes "good" grease winds up being a hassle. The Valvoline Synthetic stuff, at least, doesn't seem to come off with mineral spirits or carb cleaner. Makes it kinda tough to clean and re-pack bearings with it.

 

[Campbell James]

Did you just get the parts from a local auto store?

 

[pteepee69]

I don't remember where I bought it. I think AZ can get the Timken set.

 

[pteepee69]

If you use 4x4 a lot, the spindle bearing can wear down and you can get some slop in the front axles, since the spindle bearing is the only thing really centering them in the hub, the hub itself supports the end, but if the bearings are worn, the joints on the axle allow it to wobble, and you evenually get a sloppy setup with a worn spindle bearing and an axle that's moving around in the hub rather than just rotating.

If it was just the wheel bearings, then the locknuts might not have been torqued correctly, sometimes they need to be installed, then driven, then re-installed after a few hours/days of driving to break in, otherwise they wind up either being too tight, which wears the parts down, or too loose.

Tacky grease seems okay, until you're trying to re-grease a part. I haven't tried the Mystik stuff yet (fairly inexpensive at walmart) as I prefer using Hi-temp wheel bearing grease for the wheel bearings. Sometimes "good" grease winds up being a hassle. The Valvoline Synthetic stuff, at least, doesn't seem to come off with mineral spirits or carb cleaner. Makes it kinda tough to clean and re-pack bearings with it.

Mystik is a high temp bearing grease. I used one of those cheap plastic bearing packers this time around and I like it better than the old force it in with your hand method. The bearing was definitely full of grease when I got done. And the good thing about it is when it comes time to repack it just forces the old grease out.