95 v8 swap issue

[Tubstinator]

So we took the 95 v6 ohv out with the tranny and t case and put it in our 2WD 96 xlt which had a v8, switched front wiring harness with a 95 xlt ohv (harness from junkyard, Eddie Bauer front harness gave us issues) with 6 wires spliced for a/c and alternator, now perfect and driving it around. We are done with swapping the v6 into the 1996 xlt and it works great. Now for the more important issue..
So in the process of the V8 swap, we came across an issue where the oil pan is hitting the vacuum control trac in the front axle on the passenger side. We are trying to find out how to solve this without sas or lift in front. coming to the conclusion to buy a new oil pan, modify a steel oil pan, or swap oil pans with my brother's F-150 with the 302 in it. Does anyone know if there is an oil pan that will work for this application?

 

[Tubstinator]

bump*

 

[christopherjones]

i am having this same issue with mine they are making full contact. i used a 4406 fullsize selectable tcase in mine so that further restricts my ability to move the motor around

did you have any clearance issues with your pan and steering rack? what about the drivers sdie vavle cover conTACting the firewall


the only solution i have found possibly working is lowering the front diff down 2-3 inches
or changing the diff with a later model unit that uses a "live axle" without the vacuum disconnect on it if that exists? i thought the 5.0 engines used that right from the get go as there is only one oil pan listed for the v8 that fits and clears and has the provisionng for the drivers side exhaust dump

if you come up witha solution to this let me know as its winter and id like to install my front driveshaft

 

[Turdle]

If you do lower the front diff hangers, you will also need to lower the tie rod ends or weird angles will render it undrivable.

This truck

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168799&highlight=turnpike

went from lowered to lifted. The 4406 was swapped in, run on 31's for a while then changed over to Mountaineergreen's setup.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153521

This entailed the superlift kit and CAD center disconnect axle. I doubt the CAD will fit without a lift of some sort, or, elimination of the IFS all together.

Doing this all in my head now for ROJO and have decided to just use the 97-up live version of the front axle without the center disconnect.

Hope this helps.

 

[Glen4X4]

You could just get a diff from an awd truck or 97+ 4wd ex as they are constant live axles and do not have the vacuum disconnect.

 

[christopherjones]

Unfortunately. Having a liveaxle would Partially defeat the purpose of having the manual tcase. I have rewired the axle so I can Pushbutton engage disengage from the cab allowing me to put the tcase in to lowrange without powering the front wheels. Essentially going me a 2 low

How does moving the diff position affect tierods it will only change cv axle angles

 

[Turdle]

Changing the axle angles would require the same change to the control arm(s) and tie rod angles, or else something will bind when the suspension cycles.

 

[Tubstinator]

i am having this same issue with mine they are making full contact. i used a 4406 fullsize selectable tcase in mine so that further restricts my ability to move the motor around

did you have any clearance issues with your pan and steering rack? what about the drivers sdie vavle cover conTACting the firewall


the only solution i have found possibly working is lowering the front diff down 2-3 inches
or changing the diff with a later model unit that uses a "live axle" without the vacuum disconnect on it if that exists? i thought the 5.0 engines used that right from the get go as there is only one oil pan listed for the v8 that fits and clears and has the provisionng for the drivers side exhaust dump

if you come up witha solution to this let me know as its winter and id like to install my front driveshaft

I do have a 3" body lift so that may be taking care of some of my issues but the biggest issue that we just conquered last weekend was the oil pan. What we had to do was go to the junkyard and remove a steel oil pan from an f150 that had the 5.0 in it like 95 or 96 I think is what we pulled it from. From there we grabbed the torch and a hammer and started heating and shaping.

I would show you the oil pan but idk how to get pictures up on here =/

I am excited to have 2 low though >=D and all from within the comfort of the inside lol

 

[christopherjones]

To have control of your front axle you Need to do a few things at the gem behind the stereo. First is find +12v switched wire to a indicator light and ground it through the wire that goes to the axle switch that will tell you when axle is engaged
Secondly you need a momentary spdt rocker switch. Ground the common side and for one side hook u the wire that goes to one of the axle vacuum solenoids an the other side will go to the other solenoid

The way this works is you push and hold the switch one way and it will pull the axle into engaged and the light you hooked up should come on then let go of the button. Pres the button the other way and the axle should disengage and the light will go out
Purpose of the light is so you can see when it's changed it's position
You don. Need to maintain power to the solenoids which is why the momentary switches

Using the 4wd oem switch won't work because them gem looks to the tcase to decide wether or not to engage front and if your running a manuL tcase those functions won't exist
Also I am inthe process of figuring out which wires on them gem to clip to use for the instrument idiot lights for 4wd and low but haven't made I to that

I didn't think a stocker pan would work and clear the exhaust drop on drivers side as well as the steering rack

Which body lift did you go with. I never did one on mine but amnow tempted to do so as tcase was so tight I not only had to lower the gastnk instead we had to drop it out completely

 

[Tubstinator]

To have control of your front axle you Need to do a few things at the gem behind the stereo. First is find +12v switched wire to a indicator light and ground it through the wire that goes to the axle switch that will tell you when axle is engaged
Secondly you need a momentary spdt rocker switch. Ground the common side and for one side hook u the wire that goes to one of the axle vacuum solenoids an the other side will go to the other solenoid

The way this works is you push and hold the switch one way and it will pull the axle into engaged and the light you hooked up should come on then let go of the button. Pres the button the other way and the axle should disengage and the light will go out
Purpose of the light is so you can see when it's changed it's position
You don. Need to maintain power to the solenoids which is why the momentary switches

Using the 4wd oem switch won't work because them gem looks to the tcase to decide wether or not to engage front and if your running a manuL tcase those functions won't exist
Also I am inthe process of figuring out which wires on them gem to clip to use for the instrument idiot lights for 4wd and low but haven't made I to that

I didn't think a stocker pan would work and clear the exhaust drop on drivers side as well as the steering rack

Which body lift did you go with. I never did one on mine but amnow tempted to do so as tcase was so tight I not only had to lower the gastnk instead we had to drop it out completely

Thanks for the good info!

I went with the 3" body lift for a 95-97 Ranger from suspensionconnection.com I had to buy 2 longer bolts (10 inches I think) for the very rear but other than that it is a great kit. I don't know how well the brackets for the bumpers work due to the fact that I have an old grille guard that is bolted to my frame for my front bumper and a old International Scout front bumper for my rear bumper and it is bolted on to the frame and I don't plan on moving it. I'm just gonna make something to cover up the gap between my bumper and body caused by the body lift. No biggy