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96 explorer died, towed home and restarted fine.

eric mentzer

Active Member
Joined
December 10, 2017
Messages
75
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City, State
Pennsylvania
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 XLT 4 door 4wd
90,000 mile 1996 4.0 explorer. have noticed my emergency brake light has been on lately, and no other obd2 faults other than an occasional P0301 cylinder 1 misfire, which i clear and stays away for weeks at a time. was driving home and the engine revved up to approximatly 3k rpm and back down to 1000-1500 rpms several times. i drifted it downhill into a parking space and sat for 20 mins or so, occassionally trying to start it. It turns over fine and fires but immdietly dies. got it towed home and it fired right up. IAC valve is new, fuel pump/fuel filter/fuel pressure reg is new, injectors/ upper gaskets are new, starter is new, fuel pump relay is new, wires/plugs are new, coil pack(?) is new, MAF is new, and a few other parts. It started back up several times just now. Was wondering if anyone has had a similar experience or knew where to start? was odd it revved up and down before dying (TPS is original). I have a fuel pressure guage on the rail which usually reads 30 at idle, it looked like it was at 10-20 then (when not starting) but im not sure if that is just a guage malfunction. Will swap it out asap to verify proper fuel at rail. Everytime i started it when i was back home the guage read 30 psi everytime at idle. The fuel pump is approximatly 1 year old (from autozone eek). ive had quality control issues with them recently with spark plug wires falling apart (wires replaced since then).
Thanks
 



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Question: did the RPM's actually go up to 3K, or was it just the indication on the tachometer?
 






check fuel psi, 30 is a little low and cheap fuel pumps do not last......
other suspect is the PCM itself or the camshaft position sensor on its way out.
I suspect fuel pump or relay, getting hot = reduced flow and eventually found on road dead
cools back down and blamo! restarts.........
 






Question: did the RPM's actually go up to 3K, or was it just the indication on the tachometer?
i believe they did rise that high, i have a flowmaster on it lol and i could hear it. my kids yelled at me because they thought i was messing around with it. i wonder if it was the engine responding to a lean condition of fuel pump dying and then coming back? lean from no fuel then overcompensating and adding too much fuel via injector once pump came back? i was going down a hill so maybe momentum kept it cranking? just idled the thing for 30 mins and everything seems fine now. not cool
 






check fuel psi, 30 is a little low and cheap fuel pumps do not last......
other suspect is the PCM itself or the camshaft position sensor on its way out.
I suspect fuel pump or relay, getting hot = reduced flow and eventually found on road dead
cools back down and blamo! restarts.........
it usually runs 30 psi at idle then fuel reg brings up to 40 once engine vacuum (drops?) once throttle opens. fuel pump was in a pinch so autozone it was. relay was replaced, all relays are hot to my palms touch in the panel but i assume this is normal? its working now but i dont like worrying about reliability. i will at least replace the relay with an oem. current is aftermarket. would camshaft sensor allow it to fire up and die back down within a second or two? HVAC mechanic trying to understand my ford. pcm is the computer?
Thanks
 






i believe they did rise that high, i have a flowmaster on it lol and i could hear it. my kids yelled at me because they thought i was messing around with it. i wonder if it was the engine responding to a lean condition of fuel pump dying and then coming back? lean from no fuel then overcompensating and adding too much fuel via injector once pump came back? i was going down a hill so maybe momentum kept it cranking? just idled the thing for 30 mins and everything seems fine now. not cool

Low fuel pressure at any time is very bad, even when the engine isn't running for a few hours. If you verify that is the case replace with a Walbro or Bosch pump. There are lots of $10 China fuel pumps on ebay, that is probably what is in the Autozone pump. They last 6-12 months if you are lucky. Fuel pump is very high stress part as you can imagine.
 






The only way for the engine to go to 3000 RPM, is if there is enough air entering the intake system. Unless you accidentally depressed the accelerator with out knowing it, then somehow air (vacuum leak) or malfunctioning IAC valve contributed to the air entering the intake system causing the engine to rev to 3K.
 






30 psi is pretty low, maybe try with another gauge
spec for 97 is 35-45 psi
I am happy with fuel pressure more like 36-42 range, otherwise your injectors are going to have a hard time spraying and keeping up with demand.

If you have ever been behind the wheel of a vehicle running out of fuel whether its a carbed lawn mower, a diesel tractor or our beloved explorers you will notice the engine surges and surges before it dies.....
 






Second the fuel pump. Did you use a cheap one?

Best bet if your pressure isn’t in the middle of the range is to replace the pump with a quality Bosch unit.
 






fuel pump was purchased from autozone last april, so out of warranty, was a 90$ Spectra Premium. Im trying to locate a quality replacement pump (walbro and bosch were recommend) but the parts store are having a hard time with all the variations of the vehicles makes etc. 1996 4.0 OHV 4 dr 4WD "usa" built (im assuming it says louisville kentucky home of ranger and explorer on sticker inside rear glass). NAPA close to me recommended a delphi FG0229 for 192$ but nothing on the shelf that will fit. FG0229 on amazon is $7#.## with same lifetime warranty? where does anyone recommend buying a bosch or walbro pump? I dont mind spending more if i dont have to change this damn pump again, although i did cheat i cut a hole under the rear seat to swap it and just patched with heavy guage metal XD
Thanks
 






Eric,
I have seen this happen before on a different model vehicle. The misfire code is misleading; it is being set by the engine misfiring before it stalled. The fuel pump would be suspect, but if it starts, runs, and pulls well on acceleration, I would wait until you
replace cam and crank sensor. Crank and Cam sensors wont always set a code; and the engine running away at 3,000 RPM's is telltale of a IAC motor or vacuum leak that is pretty bad.
The ECM can be tested. Tthere is a very good ECM shop in Florida that I have had great results with.
Don't send ANYTHING to ASI Electronics in Rogersville, TN, they are crooks, and do crappy work.

I will have to look in my office for the name, address and phone number for the guys in Florida. I would not replace your ECM
until you have it bench tested. Ford processors are better than most makes in my opinion.

Use Motorcraft electronics or Standard Ignition parts if you cant get Motorcraft. Try RockAuto.com --they are very good.
 






Dont let the simple rub off this deal. In one instance a 2000 merc mountaineer 5.0 the key had lost it's programming because of a magnet in my pocket. It stalled in traffic and never restarted security light flashing wildly. at least till I got the keys reprogrammed.
Months later,
Nieghbor says his 5.0 wont start at the ball game. Security light starts flashing madly after attempted start. reprogram key, replace key sensor ring, replace control module.?
Nope fixed the wire on the back of the intake. The DPFE sensor cable had melted since the egrvac valve wasn't connected correctly and caused that pipe to get real hot.
I went back and checked the 5.0, well I'll be cooked!
 












Bosch "blue" pump $50 on Rockauto
1996 FORD EXPLORER 5.0L V8 Fuel Pump | RockAuto

More Information for BOSCH 69128

and you need a strainer:
More Information for BOSCH 68012

Spectre premium is GARBAGE

AirTex is also garbage.

IDK if the Bosch 69128 is correct for a '96. I know it was not what was called for for my '97, but it was correct for two 2000 Mountaineer V8's, my 2001 Explorer V8 and my 2001 Sport Trac. You can't beat the Bosch 69128 price off eBay (around $45 with free shipping the last time I looked). You'll need the new strainer sock and a new fuel filter for your warranty.
 






went with Bosch 67085 on rock auto. will let yall know how it goes. ordered a fuel filter too so i can validate the limited lifetime warranty :) not going cheap on this pump, the autozone spectra premium that i previously paid 90$ for was 22$ on rockauto. junk. lesson learned.
 






went with Bosch 67085 on rock auto. will let yall know how it goes. ordered a fuel filter too so i can validate the limited lifetime warranty :) not going cheap on this pump, the autozone spectra premium that i previously paid 90$ for was 22$ on rockauto. junk. lesson learned.
Now you see why Autozone stock cost more than Google!
You could probably get your money back for that pump. It may have a lifetime warranty.
What if you were stranded somewhere (you were!).
 






complained on autozone website and the district manager gave me $115 cash back for bad pump (out of warranty). bought a lifetime Bosch on rockauto and no issues since.
 






complained on autozone website and the district manager gave me $115 cash back for bad pump (out of warranty). bought a lifetime Bosch on rockauto and no issues since.

Good deal. Congrats.
 






wow thats nice to hear! Autozone kicks butt sometimes........they are doing lifetime warranty on brake pads and rotors again...for guys like me who keep our trucks forever this is a good deal
 



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wow thats nice to hear! Autozone kicks butt sometimes........they are doing lifetime warranty on brake pads and rotors again...for guys like me who keep our trucks forever this is a good deal

I usually use AZ or Advance when buying parts locally. Never O'Reilly's and very seldom NAPA. I always buy my brake pads/shoes from AZ. Buy them once and never pay for replacements. I was not aware they had lifetime warranties on brake rotors.
 






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