96xlt4x4 lower ball joint replacement | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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96xlt4x4 lower ball joint replacement

96kenex

Member
Joined
October 23, 2003
Messages
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City, State
Bradenton, Fl
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 xlt 4x4
96xlt4x4 lower ball joint removal

can't seem to get ball joint loose from lower control arm... have tried liquid wrench, pickle fork, heating, putting jack on lower control arm, prying, pitman arm puller.

the Haynes manual says I am supposed to replace entire lower control arm, yet Ford only sells the ball joints according to dealer parts counter person.

I've become very confused...please assist.
 



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Remove the C-ring

With a large hammer pound on the top of the ball joint until it comes out from underneath the control arm. I used a ball peen hammer as a punch and a sledge to pund out the old ball joint.

Take the new ball joint and tap it into place with a hammer. Use a drift pin or punch to hit around the collar of the ball joint to seat it enough to get the new c-clip back on.(about 15 minutes)

Good luck and replace the upper control arm while you've got it all apart.
 






Ball Joint press come in handy I hear. Autozone rents them out with a $100.00 deposit. Autozone's around here are open 24/7.
 






Ball Joint Press.
 


















The ball peen and sledge did the trick!!! The press would not fit due to the front axle (4x4).

Help!!! I can't get the steering knuckle and the lower ball joint stud to come together.

Background...I had to cut the ball joint stud in half to remove the steering knuckle from the ball joint... Assembly preparations entailed cutting stud just below cotter pin hole. I have clearance between the stud and the knuckle, but I am unable to get them lined up to come together. The control arm rim and steering knuckle are connecting. I need help!!!! Yesterday!


96kenex
96xlt4x4..4.0:eek: :eek:
 






Thanks to all:p I got it removed with ball peen and sledge due to the press will not fit because of drive axle(4x4). Pressed it back by putting nut on flush with stud using a piece of 2x1 wood, jacked the control arm up by ball joint stud then pounded control arm with sledge and it pressed right in.

Now I am unable to get the steering knuckle, the knuckle head that I am, back on the ball joint stud.

:mad: Background...had to cut ball joint stud in half to remove from steering knuckle...Prepared new ball joint by cutting stud just below cotter pin hole...That worked for the clearance, but I am unable to align the knuckle hole with the ball joint stud. I am ready to use the left handed sledge hammer on everything!:D
 






my 2c ...replace both at same time...easier that way...
 






Bring in the defibulator... code blue! I conceded to defeat and began researching bringing the truck into a real auto mechanic for the Ball Joint finish up. Steering knuckle to stud mating.

Thanks to all who tried to resuscitate.

:cool:
 






For the record...I enlisted some help.

Using the ball peen v. sledge hammer method we removed the ball joint from the control arm.

We put the ball joint in the steering knuckle with the crown nut flush at the stud. Then aligned the control arm to the ball joint as best as possible. ( As a smooth cylinder it will align itself as the control arm is pounded downward with the sledge hammer) The jack was put under the ball joint at the crown nut and stud to support as control arm was pounded down.

With the ball joint successfully inserted the c ring and nut were tightened.

The end.:eek: :p :cool:
 






You guys are brutal!

I invested in a little heavy duty C clamp insert/removal tool for only $30. Isn't that why you by an Explorer, so you have a reason to buy new tools. Hope you at least made a collar out of an old pipe to pound the new one in. Sounded like you just beat on the bolt.
 






Oh no...There was no need to beat on the stud or the top of the ball joint or around the collar to get it back in. We supported the ball joint at the stud with a jack with the control arm exerting downward pressure on the ball joint...we applied additional downward force on the control arm with the hammer and the ball joint just slid into position.
I had tried c clamp type press to remove but with the forward axle I was unable to get a proper alignment to press the ball joint free...thus, resulting in the use of brute force.
 






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