97 5.0 blower relay box is smoked | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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97 5.0 blower relay box is smoked

TurdyExploder

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City, State
Palm Bay Florida
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Explorer XLT
So I have a 97 Limited 5.0 with the fancy climate controls, my blower motor quit working completely a while back. I bought a new blower motor and plugged it in to see what it would do and nada, checked fuses and they all seem to be good. So I went to the relay box on the passenger side to replace the relay and the relay and the box itself were smoked. I've found one online for cheap, but I can't tell if there's just a plug or if they're hardwired. Has anyone replaced one of these before? What steps are involved? Thanks guys
 



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Do you mean the blower motor resistor unit, which mounts in the AC box near the blower motor? If so that and the blower motor are the weak links, it's good to replace those.
 






Do you mean the blower motor resistor unit, which mounts in the AC box near the blower motor? If so that and the blower motor are the weak links, it's good to replace those.
No the relay box on the passenger side underneath the intake. I don't know much about this vehicle but from what I gather it was sunk at one time.
8C0631AE-6954-4B7B-8745-147F0B3FD811.png
 






That's the "new" relay box I was able to find on eBay, I'm just hoping that's a plug on the side, and it's not hardwired cause I really don't wanna have to cut into the wiring harness anymore.
 






That's the "new" relay box I was able to find on eBay, I'm just hoping that's a plug on the side, and it's not hardwired cause I really don't wanna have to cut into the wiring harness anymore.
You will need to splice the relay box in. The other option, which I would recommend is to remove each wiring circuit from the old box and install it in the new one. Of course you'll still need to splice in any damaged circuits. Remember to solder each repair and use heat shrink to protect the splices.

The other big question is why did this happen?
 






XploderPhil is right, you will have a lot of R&Ring to do for all of those wires. I was afraid you meant that relay box, which is under the air cleaner. It's low enough that any deep water could reach it.

Hopefully not much of the wiring is bad, melted etc. You don't want to have to cut or solder any wires of course, first get a closer look at yours. The wires all will come out without cutting anything, but it's slow work to remove each terminal.

All connectors have plastic locks in them which are to keep the terminals from coming out. The lock piece is colored in contrast to the connector, so it's easy to see what part it is. Then you find the direction it is to come out, and push or pry it out. The lock part comes out completely, and then each terminal can be removed easily with a tiny pick or screw driver, to gently move the locking tang down next to the terminal deep in the connector. Use patience, and look closely, it is easy to figure out with these details I've posted.

Those relays will swap with any same size relay from any late 90's Fords. At this age some relays should be replaced. I had the one in that actual relay box, fail closed, it kept my fog lights on, even with the switch off, and drained the battery.

See below, this is a similar relay box I took apart and used for my 99 mail truck. See the red pieces, those are the locks which have to be removed to allow the terminals to come out. They pry upward and out, there's a spot on the side which you should see, find the red on a hole/slot, and pry it upward and out.

Relay box w flasher.JPG
 






No the relay box on the passenger side underneath the intake. I don't know much about this vehicle but from what I gather it was sunk at one time. This is what it looks like:

View attachment 328837
You will need to splice the relay box in. The other option, which I would recommend is to remove each wiring circuit from the old box and install it in the new one. Of course you'll still need to splice in any damaged circuits. Remember to solder each repair and use heat shrink to protect the splices.

The other big question is why did this happen?
Like I said, I'm pretty sure it was sunk at one point. Apparently the fog lights had to be disconnected because they wouldn't turn off, which makes sense now because the relay for them are also in this box.

Sounds like replacing the box is going to be a painstaking process.. Is there a way I can just run the blower off a couple toggles in the dash? Maybe just set it up for medium and high? I live just south of the devils ball sack so I'm more concerned about having air then keeping factory aesthetics lol
 






First see what the condition of the wires are. If they are just muddy and not torched/melted, they can be easily washed with a garden hose sprayer, and dried out etc. The relays should be replaced if they were under dirty water, they aren't likely to be cleaned out.

What matters is the condition of the wires, not the amount of mud you see. Get the relay box in your hands, loose from the mounting bracket, and flip it over to get at the bottom cover and the wires. The bottom cover comes off with a small screw driver to pull the tangs loose while removing the cover. You cannot see the wire conditions without removing the bottom cover, potential damage will be on the bottom where the wire terminals go in.
 






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