97 5.0 Coolant Problem

[xnewengx76]

Hey guys, I read often but don't post too much, but I need to today!

On my way to school this morning, my temp gauge went past the 75% mark, and my heat went away. This has happened to me before, I have been loosing coolant at a steady rate (nothing serious) and had forgot to top it off that month. When the engine is run between 2k to 3k, the gauge usually shoots right back down. It happened again for the first time in a while, while is was stuck bumper to bumper, and wasn't able to lower it by running up the engine RPM (and I also didn't want to increase the engines heat by doing that too much). I finally made it to my destination, and as I was pulling in steam came pouring out of my hood. I opened it up and found what seemed to be a leak coming from the passenger side of the radiator, below the upper hose.

It may have been the hose, not sure. But I am assuming that I was low enough on coolant to allow whatever was left to turn mostly into steam, thus increasing the pressure enough and blowing through what was probably the small leak I have been fighting for a while.

Sorry for the long read, just making sure I include the details.

What suggestions do you all have in order to fix this? I have used Bars before (last year), and it since stopped the leaking almost 90%, until today.

Thanks for you help.

 

[Ford_Racing_Guy]

well i would say obviously it was running a bit warm because of being low on coolant, after you get the leak fixed (hopefully its just a hose), but then i would change the thermostat as well and if you have an air compressor use and air nozzle and try to blow the radiator out from the backside, clean out all the dust/debris that may be caught in the fins.

Does it still have the stock hoses and spring clamps?

if you can't tell for sure where its coming from, try sliding the spring clamp forward or backward enough to install a regular bandclamp, could just the the spring clamp loosing its tension and allowing it to leak when the pressure builds up to a certain point.


I"ve had good luck with aluma-seal for small leaks, but this sounds like it might be a little more serious.

Either way, good luck.

 

[johnnyboy1986]

I had the same problem and theres only one thing you can do thats just get a new radiator and after i put the new radiator on i didnt have any problems.

just a side note my radiator cost me $155 and i had a buddy put it in for me but you will need to get a new one and the radiator is going to be a pain to get off caues on the driver side there r 2 plastic bits that u haft to slide on and off if yours is the same as mine cause i have a 97 limited v8 5.0 and it was hell cause we didnt know about that

 

[OneLever]

The seal between the passenger side plastic tank and the aluminum core of my radiator failed in a similar fashion. This thread and the others it links to will help you: Link

 

[xnewengx76]

The seal between the passenger side plastic tank and the aluminum core of my radiator failed in a similar fashion. This thread and the others it links to will help you: Link

The location you mentioned seems to be where I think mine is also. Can you describe the plastic tank and radiator more? I was unaware of a "tank" as part of the radiator.

EDIT: Are you referring to the black plastic at either end of the radiator?

 

[OneLever]

Yes. There is a black plastic tank on either side of the radiator surrounding the aluminum core in the middle. If you read the other threads that I linked to in the post above you will find further descriptions of the radiator.

 

[xnewengx76]

Great, thanks everyone for your help.

I have isolated the location of the break to definitely somewhere on the radiator, possibly the upper hose neck. I replaced the spring clamp with a screw band clamp, but when I squeeze the hose I still hear air coming from that area. So it looks like I'll be forced to remove the radiator.

Has anyone been successful at removing the radiator with the fan still installed? I was able to place the fan shroud over the fan, leaving almost 2 inches of room from the radiator, it seems it could be possible.


Also, how well would Bars Aluminum leak stop help (once again)? If that would temporarily solve this until summer, when it would be easier for me to replace the rad (time + money wise), that would be preferable.

 

[OneLever]

It will be very difficult to loosen the two transmission lines on the left side of the radiator with the fan still in place. In addition the radiator must be moved backwards about two inches or so to clear the clip securing it to the AC condenser on the bottom right side. I highly doubt you could install the new radiator without banging it against the fan which is a bad way to start.

I suspect that any type of stop leak will do poorly since the two mating surfaces are different materials (plastic and metal). I prefer to not place any type of "glue" in my fluid systems.

 

[BurnTheLight88]

Agreed. The fan isn't that hard to remove, I'd say it'd be stupid not to take it off. You'll risk damaging your new part and with it gone you'll have much more room to work. Just do the new part and forget temporary fixes at this point. I don't trust 99% of additives.

 

[bobflood]

Save yourself a LOT of heartache adnd get the special fan removal wrenches! You should be able to borrow them from Advance/AutoZone. It is virtually impossible to get the fan off without them - with them it is a snap. Also, totally agree re the stop leak - bad idea.

 

[xnewengx76]

Well, I got it! Left the fan+shroud in place behind the rad, and was able to remove the radiator after splitting the ac portion.

Definitely confirmed a nice leak around the plastic/metal connection. I'll be getting a new one from Advance tomorrow morning.

As far as installing the new one with the fan still in, I plan on putting a decent piece of cardboard or luan up against the rad and sliding it in. I'll report back tomorrow.

 

[OneLever]

That's better than nothing. Congratulations on working around the fan and shroud. The coupon code and part number in link one of my post appear to be valid at your zip code still so it should come to $160 if you order online. Print out the lifetime warranty and keep it with the receipt in case you ever need it.


Edit:
Apparently there is a coupon code for $50 off any $200 purchase right now as well bringing the price to $150. Here's the link from the top of the forum: Link