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97 Explorer oil pump WOES!!!


theguyfromplt

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Hi fellas! It's been a long time since I've had to post regarding some sort of problem... Here's the deal:

I have a 1997 Explorer (4.0L OHV) that my mother and stepdad gave me about a 1 1/2 yrs ago. When they gave it to me, they neglected to inform me that it has always had a clogged oil screen. Long story short, it clogged up on me and that's how I found out. I flushed the crankcase CAREFULLY with diesel and it alleviated it for a little while, but now it's clogged again and flushing isn't working. SO... ...time to drop the pan and pull the pump and screen (yippee)... I have access to a shop and a lift. I'm afraid of completely pulling the motor though< because I don't want to break open any a/c lines (it recently had an $800 system installed). Is it possible to pull the motor and leave the a/c system intact? I have the motor ready to lift (removed driveshaft, front halfshaft but have not pulled the tranny from the motor). My brother thinks that we should be able to tilt the motor/trans enough to get limited access to the oil pump bolts, but I disagree...

I have read about dropping the front passenger side axle, but I haven't seen any pictures of this process. Also, is it possible to just drop the entire front diff with the axles and knuckles still attached (so I don't have to replace the one-time-use axle nut)?? Has anyone done this that could clue me in as to how/where the bolts are to do this?

What do you gentlemen recommend? Please, if able, post any pictures in your replies that you feel may be helpful.

IMG_20130112_120745_zpsaa31372a.jpg
 

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Dono

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Yes, you can pull the motor without evacuating the A/C. Im 100% certain on this.

Also, you can drop the front pumpkin on your truck and remove the oil pan (Not sure about just 1 axle). You will need to remove both front axles and drive shaft. At least you don't have to deal with the trans this way.
This is what I did when my new motor install had a pan leak. You might want to have a couple of axle seals ready to go though. They are about $9.00 each from rockauto.
 


theguyfromplt

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Wow that was fast!

OK, first, thank you for the quick response... I looked at Autozone (simply because we have one local) and they show several different looking seals. Some are Dana/Spicer 28 and some are Dana/Spicer 35. How do I know what I've got? also, there are some larger "funnel" shaped ones that say "output shaft". what are those/where do they go? Thanks again.

P.S. Can't I just disconnect the shocks, tie rod ends and ball joints to drop everything as an assembly (without pulling out the axles)?? If possible, what is the need for the seals?
 


Dono

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Here's a post by Turtle on part numbers:
TIMKEN Part # 710429 front left axle seal

TIMKEN Part # 710428 front right axle seal

They are about 8.75 each at rockauto.com

No, I think you have to pull the brakes, separate top ball joint, bla bla bla....there's a how to in the top section on cv joint replacement. Guys say they can have the front pumpkin out in an hour, but I foud it a big job.

Oh, and I didnt replace my seals when I took mine apart, and now have a 90 weight oil leak at the drivers side cv. I have to take that side apart again to do the seal. I thought that for $20.00 it might be worth the piece of mind.
 


SoNic67

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I did drop the whole front end - axle and differential. I know is not supposed to reuse the CV nuts but... I did.
The issue on my 5.0L AWD is that even after that, the oil pan won't clear the steering rack, it drops some but not enough to clear the pump pick up. So I had to disconnect the motor mounts and push up the engine another 2" - with the exhaust attached.
I don't know if that had something to do with my exhaust gasket failure latter...

In some other forum I saw how somebody attached (duct taped) an socket, extension and two swivels to be able to sneak it in the limited clear space (pan dropped till it touches the steering rack), unbolt the pump and drop the pump in the same time with the pan by sliding it sideways.
 


Dono

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Sonic, that's ugly. No fun at all.

I know you can get the 4.0 OHV pan off with just dropping the pumpkin from experience. I guess the 5.0 is just that much longer that it is not so easy.
 


SoNic67

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Well, I am not sure if AWD had something to do or the 5.0L pan is longer.
Anyway, now I regret that I didn't put in a high-volume pump, I stick with the standard one...
 


Turdle

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I did drop the whole front end - axle and differential. I know is not supposed to reuse the CV nuts but... I did.
The issue on my 5.0L AWD is that even after that, the oil pan won't clear the steering rack, it drops some but not enough to clear the pump pick up. So I had to disconnect the motor mounts and push up the engine another 2" - with the exhaust attached.
I don't know if that had something to do with my exhaust gasket failure latter...

In some other forum I saw how somebody attached (duct taped) an socket, extension and two swivels to be able to sneak it in the limited clear space (pan dropped till it touches the steering rack), unbolt the pump and drop the pump in the same time with the pan by sliding it sideways.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=242451&highlight=oil+pan

Had to fish the pump back in thru the gap. :thumbsup:
 


Dono

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Our old trucks are sure a lot of work. At times I start looking at new(er) vehicles, and dreaming. I am impressed with the creativity everyone has here. I sure learn lots.
 


theguyfromplt

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Thanks all, for the responses! Another question: Where do each of YOU prefer to chain/strap it for the cherry picker? Also, if I pull the dipstick tube and it's press-fit, how the heck do I get it back in?
 


SoNic67

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Dono

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remember guys, with the 4.0 ohv you do not have this issue. I just did it before christmas.
 


rickybobby

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Thanks all, for the responses! Another question: Where do each of YOU prefer to chain/strap it for the cherry picker? Also, if I pull the dipstick tube and it's press-fit, how the heck do I get it back in?
The dipstick tube is not a press fit, they just tend to rust in place. I have never removed one from a 4.0, i just work around them. I put the chain on a bolt in an open hole on the back of one head, and another on the front of the other head. I have seen guys put straps on the exhaust manifolds as well.
 


theguyfromplt

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Thanks for that, RickyBobby.

I just had a thought here... Is it POSSIBLE to drop the lower control arms, thereby allowing me to drop out the front pumpkin WITH the CV axles assembled to the steering knuckles WITHOUT messing with my alignment upon reassembly? Trying to avoid actually pulling the axles out, and I can get help from a floor jack and a friend - even wire the knuckles across the diff to keep the CV joints from over-extending... What do you guys think? Am I about to learn a hard lesson? :p

Oh, and Dono: Just for future reference, is there a thread that covers the M90 supercharger? Who do I see to have the intake made? Thanks!
 


Dono

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I think once your that far, the cv's just pull out anyway. Like I say, the issue I had was one seal rearing when the cv separated from the pumpkin. If you get the seals locally, you can return them if you don't need them.
You could try the method you are talking about. If it doesn't seem like it will work, just pull the cv's.
 


Turdle

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Pop upper ball joint loose.Remove axle spindle nut. Pull out cv axles. Drop diff.Try keep it as close to level as you can to avoid loosing fluid.

When you put the upper ball joint back in place, alignment should be where it was before you started, nothing has changed.
 


theguyfromplt

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Pop upper ball joint loose.Remove axle spindle nut. Pull out cv axles. Drop diff.Try keep it as close to level as you can to avoid loosing fluid.

When you put the upper ball joint back in place, alignment should be where it was before you started, nothing has changed.
Okay, it was already established that to remove the pass. CV axle, I need to pull a circlip in the diff. Has anyone tried just pulling the driver side CV and kind of sliding out the pass side spindle from the knuckle? I know it seems a bit cumbersome, but I'm leery of opening the diff... Thanks y'all!
 


Turdle

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The circlip will "release".

I carefully place a nail puller tool between the diff edge and cv axle --give it a push and it pops right out.

Be very careful with this though, a sharp edge can damage the seal. You can clearly see it though once you are there-
 


Turdle

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On the passenger side there is a half shaft the stays in there,you can drop the diff with it inside.

Well, sometimes it stays in, sometimes it comes out.

Why do you want to remove the inner half shaft?
 

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SoNic67

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I guess he is trying to avoid removing the outer part of the CV axle. In my experience that's not that scary... if one have a breaker bar and rents the socket set from parts store.
 


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