97 sport clutch change

[smokedya]

I'm changing the clutch in my 97 sport 2wd. Im to the point of disconnecting the slave cylinder line and there is suppose to be a clip holding the line. I see no clip and the hose wont come. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[RangerX]

Do you see a white plastic ring?

 

[Explodr94]

It's similar to your fuel filter lines. If clip is gone you need the release tool and it will come apart. You might be able to get a clip at someplace like LMC if you are going to replace the clip.

 

[smokedya]

OK thanks

 

[96EXXLTinCO]

The clip holding the line in is on some replacement slave cylinders. The line should have a white plastic ring around it that spins and doesn't seem to have a purpose. You have to shove that into the joint, I found a flathead screwdriver works well, all the way around. That white ring releases the fingers inside that hold the line in. Push it in until it's pretty much flush with the slave cylinder side of the joint, push the line in a little, and it should pop out. I had to push the line in while stuffing that white ring in a little further and pulled and it came right out. You also may want to spray some kind of cleaner in there first, as dirt a crap can work it's way in there and give you hell too. Here's a video I came across that shows how to do it:

clutch hydraulic line removal

I have no doubt you already got yours done, just throwing this in for anyone else who may be searching.

 

[fast_dave]

I'm changing the clutch in my 97 sport 2wd. Im to the point of disconnecting the slave cylinder line and there is suppose to be a clip holding the line. I see no clip and the hose wont come. Anyone have any ideas?

Just saying - If you replace the Master Cylinder, be aware of the very tiny "O" ring that seals the Master Cylinder to the Fluid Line that leads down to the Slave Cylinder.

Bleed air from system with a hand operated vacuum pump, available from Harbor Freight:

Link: http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-60770.html

PS - Don't forget to download a 20% discount coupon from the interweb!

 

[imp]

Mine, a '99, had a check-valve built in at the disconnect, which prevented air from entering either back up towards the M.C., or into the slave. Popped the new slave connection together, good "pedal", right away, no need to bleed at all.

I was happy with that. imp

 

[fast_dave]

Mine, a '99, had a check-valve built in at the disconnect, which prevented air from entering either back up towards the M.C., or into the slave. Popped the new slave connection together, good "pedal", right away, no need to bleed at all.

I was happy with that. imp

Good Info!

On a '98 - It's just a solid fluid line from the Master Cylinder to the Slave Cylinder.

Air Bleeding takes place via a nipple on the Slave Cylinder.

The "small detail" in the '98 Clutch Hydraulic System is the TINY "O" Ring between the Master Cylinder and the Fluid Line.

By Design, when the Master Cylinder is disconnected from the Fluid Line, the "O" Ring wants to fall straight down onto the ground (if you're lucky)

I'm guessing it's the same on the Original Poster's '97

 

[smokedya]

Good Info!

On a '98 - It's just a solid fluid line from the Master Cylinder to the Slave Cylinder.

Air Bleeding takes place via a nipple on the Slave Cylinder.

The "small detail" in the '98 Clutch Hydraulic System is the TINY "O" Ring between the Master Cylinder and the Fluid Line.

By Design, when the Master Cylinder is disconnected from the Fluid Line, the "O" Ring wants to fall straight down onto the ground (if you're lucky)

I'm guessing it's the same on the Original Poster's '97

It must be cause they included a new o ring with the clutch kit.

 

[96EXXLTinCO]

vacuum bleeder wasn't necessary for me, I just filled the reservoir and cracked open the bleeder till it was a little below the fill line, topped it back off and was good to go.

 

[fast_dave]

Good deal

What I find great about Vacuum Bleeding is that is positively sucks out all of the "normal" rubber seal wear & degradation from the Master and Slave Cylinder that occurs to a lesser extent in a well-maintained hydraulic system.

Additionally, Clutch Fluid is the same as Brake Fluid - meaning that it has an effective life of approximately 3 years due to the fact that it's hydroscopic; it absorbs water from the atmosphere - Google It!

* Note that Brake/Clutch fluid is almost as clear as water when new.

* 3 year old Brake/Clutch fluid turns yellow - showing that it has absorbed water.

* Brake fluid older than 3 years old turns brown from the rust that it is causing within the brake and clutch system.

Rust wears downs rubber sealed hydraulic rods & pistons. Results of a rusted hydraulic system are stuck brake calipers, leaking and or worn out master and slave cylinders.

Quality brake fluid - i.e. Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3/4 is around $7 a quart at Pep Boys and replacing your brake & clutch fluid every 3 years saves a lot of headaches down the line -

Your mileage may vary