97 v8 tranny swap to 01 HELP | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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97 v8 tranny swap to 01 HELP

Chris, do not those trans codes point to the specific wires which are not jiving with what the PCM needs. If it was only one or two codes I realize it would be easier. It seems like there are two or more wires mixed up in the VB connector.
 

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I'm pretty confident it is a wiring issue. I was just reading back and conveying Jerry W's advice on the issue which was use the harness and solenoids from the 97 when you put a 98 and newer trans in. You could use the newer EPC but would have to solder connectors to fit it.
 






ok the metal part of the console is solid stuck.. i am at the part where all the plastic on the sides is very loose but not comming out. i may have missed a screw i dont think so unless its hard to see its very loose in the back like i can lift it... its hung in the front somewhere i have removed every screw in sight
 






It's been two years since I pulled my console out, but I'm sure that those four screws/bolts are the main points. The dash screws go straight into the dash under the AC. You can see the two center bolt threaded holes in the floor picture I posted.
 






Okay Chris, I hear you and I buy that that should work. But the question still remains that if the VB is performing the exact same functions, and the PCM is using the exact same wires(engine harness), then there should be a simple way to connect those together. Why do the middle components need to be changed(trans harness, solenoids), instead of just rewiring the 98-01 connector?

That is a whole lot more work to do, and the parts are older and far closer to being worn out. I am very pleased to own a 98-01 model, the 95-97's seem to have a bunch of issues which make things much more difficult and troublesome.
 






yeah i got those screw out i am being kinda gentle cuz i dont want to break anything wish i had a digital to take pics to show you i got my cell but razr cams arent what they are made out to be
 






Well, will it flex backwards at all? Those steel hooks at the back could be just sticking, it may take a little effort. The whole front 90% should lift up some and twist side to side if it is loose.
 






yeah the plastic is comming back its just those hooks that are stuck i will go out there and try again i bet they are just stuck like you said
 






ok gave it a good tug and it came out cut my hand in the process but thats minor :) thanks will keep you up to date on the progress
 






i just pulled it and looked the diagram it was backwards it needs to be more clear what the front of the plug the back i compared it to the 01 harness thats how i know now will let you know how it it once i get it switched YES! :)
 






ok you cant use the connector off the 97 cuz it doenst have the right holes they switched it a little bit the 97 has the hole filled in thats how it got switched . i am going to copy down the location of wires on the 01 then remove them then put the 97 wires in the 01 connector i am so stoked
 






Yes, the orientation of the connectors, front versus back, male versus female, it is very easy to mix them up. I try to take my time dealing with them, but on paper it is actually much harder than trying to decipher than when in hand in person.

I had to rewire the main frame harness connector for use with the ARC air suspension. It took quite a bit of time even with the wiring diagrams to make it right. I did circuit testing to confirm wire colors etc, and in the end it worked. I double checked things many many times before locking mine all in.

Basically you need to look at each diagram, and reference wire colors to the corners, thus figuring out the way the diagram is referencing the actual connector(front/back/male/female). Take your time and check the wire functions, diagrams, colors, and each connector half.
 






works like a charm now thanks. now i gotta fix the brakes they are really soft any suggestions?
 






Excellent work, really, all done? That's great, well done.

For brakes go through the basics. Change the fluid, bleed it all through without letting any air in. If there is no air in the lines then just installing high quality pads should get it working very well. Be sure that the rotors are good and smooth/true also. Regards,
 






ok changed the brake fluid and front pads bleed the brakes still the same. i have pressure on the brake when i pump it when the trucks off so i think the master cylinder is good. how do i go about trouble shooting the brake booster and its hoses?
 






Well booster or master cylinder issues usually amount to big problems, like the pedal goes to the floor slowly, leaking vacuum or fluid etc.

Simply a soft pedal usually points to a fluid issue, air or dirty fluid. First you go through the basics which you seem to have, then thoroughly test it. How soft is the pedal, running, and how hard is it to stop? Can the ABS be made to function at speed? How did you belled the fluid through, and how much air was discovered?
 






new fluid was put through as old fluid went out they were bleed till its wasnt dirty any more. i talked to my neighbor that worked at the ford dealership he said basicly what you are saying rebleed the brakes then i could also scuff up the rotors a little bit with some fine grit sand paper 300 grit or so in swir marks to give new grip for it to grab to then clean them and the caliper and put it back on and the same with the rear and then see what happens oh and the ABS is no where near kicking in when i stomp it, it gradually comes to a stop
 






I know that it's hard to do not in person, but I'd guess that either something bigger is going on, or there is air in the ABS module.

An experienced eye or feel is really needed to check for a couple other possibilities. A glance should say whether the rotors need turned, if they are truly glazed(enough to hurt braking), then sanding will not be enough.

If there is something wrong with the booster or master cylinder(very rare for each), then an experienced mechanic should be able to determine that by driving it. With quality brake fluid, pads and rotors, the question should be is it possible that a poor bleeding was done, and air was aloud to get in the lines above the ABS pump. Any air that reaches the ABS pump can't be bled out, it will remain in the pump.

Only a Special diagnostic tool can manually force the ABS pump to cycle. What happens is the ABS pump is made to cycle, while fluid is bled through. I have a 95 Crown Vic with a slightly soft pedal, and I know that there is air in the ABS pump, I installed it all from scratch.

Is there someone whom you can trust to test drive the truck and say whether the problem could be related to the booster or master cylinder? How do the rotors look, are they discolored much at all, and how shiny is the surface?
 






the surface of the rotors is shiny. another guy locally said that it may be air in the abs and to bleed it. he also said they may be water in the lines or something cuz it sat for almost a year. the master cylinder was being filled before it was ever empty so i hope there isnt any air in the abs. i went to the parts store they were closed to tomorrow i will get some more brake fluid and get a friend to help me bleed them again. hopefully thats it
 



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Yes that's a good thing to do, never any harm in bleeding more through. Good luck,
 






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