97 XLT (4.0 sohc)... Not starting.. Any help appreciated

[Jestarr]

Ok... Long story short... Replaced full timing set using the specialty tools. New fuel pump and filter. New crank position sensor. New plugs and wires. Good coil pack. New oil and filter. Engine cranks but will not start. Feels and sounds like it wants to start, just won't quite catch. The only real action is an occasional backfire. Have checked and rechecked every connection I can think of. Thought maybe battery, but tried starting with it jumped to my 99 exp sport and no go. The odd thing is the battery "gauge" drops to nothing while cranking while connected to my 99 with jumper cables. Please give me some ideas, I have run out. Thanks in advance guys

 

[drdoom]

Do you have fuel pressure at the rail? And I suppose you can hear the prime up cycle when turning the key?

 

[joecrna]

Consider, if you get an occasional backfire or any combustion at all for that matter, you have both spark and fuel. My guess would be incorrect timing. First and easiest to check is plug wire routing. Correct coil location to correct plug. Next, did you accidently install the coil pack backwards or use a Mustang coil pack and not set it up correctly. They are different.

If these all check out I'd make sure I have spark at any time to each cylinder. Then I'd check for fuel. Again moving from easiest to more time consuming. Remember a fairly easy check for fuel is to spray Ether behind the air filter (never let the MAF get wet, it'll short) then crank. If she runs normally for a few seconds and then stalls you aren't getting fuel.

You replaced so much you are going to have to break it down into managable bites. Remember there may be more than one issue. If all checks out and you still have an occasional "backfire" or the intemittent firing of a cylinder but it doesn't start, it's time to consider the cam timing.

 

[Jestarr]

Done mostly

Doom - have pressure at rail... Pump functioning normally.

Joe - correct coil and firing order... Backfire comes back into the intake... Cams timed with ford specialty cam tools (all timing installed with specialty tools.


What do you guys think of the possibility of compression loss from bad valves causing the issue described. Also the battery still has me stumped as to why it would bottom out while connected by jumper cables to my idling 99 sohc

 

[jremington59]

How much pressure do you have at the rail?

 

[koda2000]

FYI, i believe a '97 should have around 35 psi at the rail.

 

[2000StreetRod]

common plug wiring mistake

A common plug wiring mistake is to misconnect cylinders 5 & 6.

I agree with joecrna's post - check for spark at the plugs and then measure fuel pressure at the Schrader valve.

The camshaft timing instructions are sometimes misinterpreted. The crankshaft at TDC should not be rotated between timing the passenger side and the driver side.

A compression test will easily eliminate the possibility of a bent valve.

 

[joecrna]

Do you have spark at each plug? While you are there (plugs out) it's easy enough to do a compression check to resolve any fears of compression loss or a whole host of other issues.

The cam timing is easy enough to have off even with the tool. The crank position sensor may be the issue as well. I'd probably give it a once over before fully commiting to a cam "retime" (if thats a word).

 

[joecrna]

I'll check your concern about the battery gauge. I believe this is normal. Remember our gauges are more like "idiot" lights. It isn't a real voltage meter. Measured voltage will drop precipitously during a high drain like cranking. Probably just goes below some threshhold so the gauge drops to zero. I'll check tonight.