98 5.0 EGR bolt size?

[carboncanyon]

Broke both the bolts that hold the EGR to the aluminum elbow on my 98 v8. Im going to have to drill them out and heli-coil or time sert them, but not having much luck finding exactly what size bolts. Im led to believe they are an M6, 1.0 thread pitch, but what is the length?

And for the record, when you have to put a 3ft cheater pipe on a quarter drive ratchet, you know the outcome is not going to be good.

I wouldnt have messed with the egr, but I could NOT get the nut loose from the exhaust manifold to save my life. Of course, once I broke the egr bolts and got the manifold off, the exhaust nut was much easier to work on and I was finally able to get it off

 

[shucker1]

M6 seems Really small.

Shell it out as far as you can go and then try a stake type EZ Out.

Flutes grab better but tend to expand the left over shell.

My intake is off on the floor in the garage.

I'll get you a size in the morning bud.

 

[carboncanyon]

It was a 10mm socket I used, and that jives with an M6 bolt diameter. I dont have the hammer in style EZ out, and your correct, the fluted one did grab nice, but swells the threads Im trying to remove. I havnt damaged anything *yet*, but tomorrow is another day. Let me know what you come up with. thanks.

 

[shucker1]

Old trick you can try.

Once you have got your EZ out in the drilled out bolt, heat the broken part with a home propane torch.

Not too hot, you don't want to screw anything up.

Once it's good and hot, thermally shock it cool with WD-40 or PB Blaster.

Try and start backing the broken part out.

If it starts turning keep going. Don't reverse or it may Gall up on you.

 

[carboncanyon]

Did all those tricks already. even welded a nut onto the portion that was sticking out. Usually that amount of heat will free up anything, but its basically galvanically welded into the aluminum. Im looking at full drill out and thread inserts at this point, just want to get the right ones.

 

[shucker1]

That sucks.

Excuse my French..

 

[shucker1]

@carboncanyon

Calling the bolt size as M8 X 1.25

Pictures attached Doc.

Chris

 

[CDW6212R]

Hi Daryl, if you manage to drill those centered well, often the threaded part will come out finally. I agree that it's probably bonded, but hope for the threads to survive. I got a rear seat belt bolt drilled out that way in 2006, I have a picture below.

I like that Chris, powder coated near the stock gray. What's that for, and do you need one that is near chrome color, and ported? I'm down the road going to build a 306 for my V6 truck, and likely make an EGR elbow that's closer to 75mm. Stock is more like 65mm I think.

 

[carboncanyon]

@carboncanyon

Calling the bolt size as M8 X 1.25

Chris

Nice catch. Thats exactly what I needed. Thanks. Every search I did for a ford egr came back with 6.0 powerstroke repairs and they were m6's.

Hi Daryl, if you manage to drill those centered well, often the threaded part will come out finally.

I have gotten lucky in the past drilling them almost to the threads and then getting them out, but its just not looking like its going to work this time. Ive broken too many drills and taps off inside old holes to risk trying to save these two holes. I could just buy a used EGR elbow and replace mine, or just buy a thread repair kit, and I never turn down the chance to buy new tools.

 

[CDW6212R]

Depending on your hurry, buying a used EGR elbow would be the easiest way to fix that. Those are strong bolts, but corrosion can kill anything. I also would have a spare used one to, lots of members here do I'm sure.

Now go eat, Thanksgiving is here. Regards,

 

[carboncanyon]

for the record, I think I finally found the OEM part number for the EGR bolts. " N807843-S431 " . Screw and washer assembly. I did notice there was a rather thick spacer/washer under the head of the bolt.

No time for turkey, I got things to do!

 

[CDW6212R]

for the record, I think I finally found the OEM part number for the EGR bolts. " N807843-S431 " . Screw and washer assembly. I did notice there was a rather thick spacer/washer under the head of the bolt.

No time for turkey, I got things to do!

Yeah, go work on that old 56/53 truck. I mixed my old 93 Explorer with a 99, clipped the old body and rewire some things for work. That was ten years ago, now I'm planning other things, as I get older(slow down). I ate, I'm resting now.

 

[shucker1]

@CDW6212R

I like that Chris, powder coated near the stock gray. What's that for, and do you need one that is near chrome color, and ported?

Don,

Already powder coated elbow and lower. Screwed up on upper intake once and had to strip it down. Just have not had the time to redo it yet.

Everything has a mild polish job done here at the homestead. Nothing drastic, just cleaned out the rough edges.


I've been watching what everyone else does and consolidating ideas and implementing along the way.

I.E. Like

@Turdle

Powder coating almost the entire engine. (I'll never be as good as that guy.)

@ahodges and yourself.

POR 15 the entire frame assembly.

@2000StreetRod

Remote Oil Filter and oil cooler assembly.

The list goes on...

The lighting is playing tricks on those (2) accessory brackets. It's the same color done on the same day.

Tomorrows project is to "Black Oxide" chemical dip more engine bolts.

Did one batch already to see how it looks.

Not bad, time consuming and the chemical solution is slightly toxic but I have my PPE handy.

I know I'll never get the money back out of a 20 year old truck, but why do people climb mountains or jump out of perfectly good airplanes anyway???

 

[CDW6212R]

Very nice work on finishing those pieces. I had Jon do my intakes, elbow, and the brackets many years ago. I tried a silver that ended up being shinier than I wanted. I love the dark grey I had the brackets done with, I like it a lot for certain things like those. I spent a lot of time deburring the upper intake and the brackets, they were covered in jagged edges. The intake I changed plans for a 347, so a 306 for my 99 truck I want the Explorer intakes on, preferably stockish looking.

I like that colored name plate too, I settled on a polished "Explorer V8 version", but need it clear coated still.

 

[shucker1]

That name plate took (2) tries both about (3) days each.

I screwed up the first time and shot the platinum first and then tried to do the darker colors.

It came out looking like a speckled trout....

Out came the stripper and it got done again.

Turtle got me straight. Shoot the dark's first and then the lighter colors.

Some small blemishes still there but I can deal with them.

 

[CDW6212R]

It looks great. I love the multiple colors and clear shine. I hope polished aluminum can be cleared well, I have quite a few things I need done. I need to figure out how the wheel makers do it and get my local shop trained to do it. I haven't asked them, I only heads them do a few items twice, black and one clear over raw AL. My old Ranchero though has lots of AL trim which was electro-plated in some way originally, and duplicating that is too hard and expensive. Polishing the pieces is not too hard to get done, but then it has to be protected, cleared.

 

[shucker1]

Actually Caswell Plating sells a home anodizing kit.

Kind of expensive and slightly toxic but you only live once...

http://www.caswellplating.com/anodizing-products.html

 

[CDW6212R]

I figured I would explore the clear powder coat method first, I think it would be more durable for the bed rail pieces than the old raw surface finish.