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98 Explorer anti-theft

Flimti

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Are you certain that you are looking at the transceiver wiring or maybe it's the ignition switch wiring instead? Hotwiring (for someone who doesn't know any better about the PATS security needing the key chip) would usually be attempted via the ignition switch wiring.

You're welcome to download the wiring diagrams linked in my sig below, to see if you can find something.
Okay Jason the transceiver is that black component that in circles the ignition lock cylinder which reads the transponder that is installed in the key that turns the lock cylinder those four wires, are original that were cut and spliced back together but the person that spliced them we no longer have around and there's a good possibility that he may have opened up that green connector and through the wires out of sequence so I'm not sure what the sequence is on that connector and I believe that that's from what I understand is the transceiver which is encircling the ignition lock cylinder. Now I was able to remove the transponder from the original key and replaced the transponder from the new key and that's all I've done so far. And the theft indicator is still flashing after the switching of transponders.

I know I said Jason but I meant to say JC.
This is getting a little more confusing the different responses. But is it possible to install the transponder backwards or upside down whatever you want to call it? Now both transponders appear the same in size and encasement but I'm not sure if they have to go in a certain position or is it okay to put it in as long as it fits in that cradle that the key is accepting that's only thing I forgot to mention.
 



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Mbrooks420

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No position requirement for the chip. Looks like you need to get a new transceiver.
 






donalds

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I wish you'd post some pictures
 






Flimti

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No position requirement for the chip. Looks like you need to get a new transceiver.
I'm not sure if this is really possible but someone mentioned something about grounding to the chassis a dark green with purple wire on the driver's sidekick panel to disengage the anti-theft system. That only sounds to me like they think it's a loose ground that is causing this issue what do you think?

Donald you said you wish I could post some pictures this is my first time ever in it in any forum so I'm not sure how to do that but what picture do you suggest I send if I do figure out how to send it? By the way I do have two trans ceiver modules here one was acquired at a junkyard and the original I've tried them both. Does the transceiver have to be completely stationary is there a proximity issue?. I'm talking about the distance between the transponder in the key and the transceiver that reads it. Because the transceivers are not completely stationary but have a slight play in it.
 






J_C

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The gap between the transceiver halo and the key chip does not need to be precise, but at the same time you don't want the chip any further away than necessary.

The transceiver you pulled from a junkyard, you should've noted the wiring to the connector for it. Maybe go back and grab that connector pigtail since you're talking about repairing cut wires anyway?

How about pictures of the connector and the 4(?) wires showing their colors? And anything else that seems relevant. You can either drag pics right into a forum reply box, or host elsewhere like imgur.com and link to them.

Are you still at the point of trying to figure out which wires go where? Another thing you can do to work out the colors is check that PDF diagram I posted previously, it shows the wire positions on the PATs module itself.

I just checked the '98 workshop manual and pages 16 thru 20 shows the test procedure for the same wire colors that were in that PDF wiring diagram I posted previously, but possibly some other part of the work shop manual is helpful to you too, as it contains other troubleshooting procedures.

It's attached to this post:
 






Flimti

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The gap between the transponder halo and the key chip does not need to be precise, but at the same time you don't want the chip any further away than necessary.

The transceiver you pulled from a junkyard, you should've noted the wiring to the connector for it. Maybe go back and grab that connector pigtail since you're talking about repairing cut wires anyway?

How about pictures of the connector and the 4(?) wires showing their colors? And anything else that seems relevant. You can either drag pics right into a forum reply box, or host elsewhere like imgur.com and link to them.

Are you still at the point of trying to figure out which wires go where? Another thing you can do to work out the colors is check that PDF diagram I posted previously, it shows the wire positions on the PATs module itself.

I just checked the '98 workshop manual and pages 16 thru 20 shows the test procedure for the same wire colors that were in that PDF wiring diagram I posted previously, but possibly some other part of the work shop manual is helpful to you too, as it contains other troubleshooting procedures.

It's attached to this post:
Okay I will try this way Jc. But no I did not go to the junkyard to get anything these are already in the car that somebody had gone to get at the junkyard so there's no telling but I'm going to check that PDF and the workshop manual that you're talking about thank you I will get back to you thank you so much for your time. Oh, one last question is it possible that the PCM has permanently enabled the Anti-Theft? If it did is the forscan able to undo that? Or is that something that has to go to a dealer or locksmith?
 






J_C

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There is no reason to believe the PATs is in a permanent lockout mode. Even when an active security mode goes in effect, all that is generally needed is press the keyfob button for a couple seconds, use the key to lock/unlock the driver's door, if even that, or disconnect the battery for a few seconds. I don't remember if that even applies to this generation of Explorer or if there is nothing that needs done, except have a key that is programmed in, and a working transceiver, so it is best to focus on what is known to need done.

If you get stuck on wiring/connectors, this is not something for a locksmith to do, only make keys and program them. A locksmith "might" be able to further troubleshoot the security system but it would be one that goes the extra mile because s/he does a lot of this type work, would tend to be the mechanical lock and logic aspect, not so much electrical.

However if you hook the wires up wrong and start giving the RX/TX contacts 12V, and ground isn't on the correct pin either, I cannot predict whether that would cause damage or not, but it would probably trigger a different PATS diagnostic trouble code if an incorrect hookup damages it. Ultimately, as mentioned in the Workshop Manual, pulling the trouble code is a valuable piece of the puzzle if it is not obvious what to do next.
 






Flimti

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There is no reason to believe the PATs is in a permanent lockout mode. Even when an active security mode goes in effect, all that is generally needed is press the keyfob button for a couple seconds, use the key to lock/unlock the driver's door, if even that, or disconnect the battery for a few seconds. I don't remember if that even applies to this generation of Explorer or if there is nothing that needs done, except have a key that is programmed in, so it is best to focus on what is known to need done.

However if you hook the wires up wrong and start giving the RX/TX contacts 12V, and ground isn't on the correct pin either, I cannot predict whether that would cause damage or not, but it would probably trigger a different PATS diagnostic trouble code. Ultimately, as mentioned in the Workshop Manual, pulling the trouble code is a valuable piece of the puzzle if it is not obvious what to do next.
Okay JC I just got home from where the vehicle was and in the process of downloading that workshop manual. I'm certainly going to into that manual and try to understand this Pat's system because like I said in the beginning I have no experience in the PATsystem anti-theft part of any vehicle for that matter, but from what I can gather from all your help and everyone else that help me I was totally naive to this system but I believe now even before I open that manual that I understand how it's working so I'm just going to go into the manual and try to confirm what I learned from you guys. Man I want to thank all of you for your help and patience with me, as I have committed myself and if I could save my good buddy a few hundred dollars by eliminating the locksmith or the dealer I'm pretty confident that he will never again do anything like this if he wants me to remain in his circle of Friends. I believe the download is done so here I go I'll keep you informed of what happens once again thanks to all of you! Peace!
 






J_C

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See also this post, the first picture, where a less definitive self-diagnostic routine can flash some codes:

 






Flimti

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See also this post, the first picture, where a less definitive self-diagnostic routine can flash some codes:

I sure will, JC, thank you!
 






Pete Deering

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I sure will, JC, thank you!
Overview of system

Anti-Theft —Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS)​

The passive anti-theft system (PATS) contains the following components:

  • theft indicator
  • encoded ignition key
  • transceiver module
  • PATS control module (located behind the passenger side air bag module)
  • powertrain control module (PCM)
  • standard corporate protocol (SCP) communication network
The passive anti-theft system (PATS) uses radio frequency identification technology to deter a driveaway theft. Passive means that it does not require any activity from the user. This system is known as SecuriLock® in North America,Safeguard® in the U.K., and PATS in continental Europe. This information can be found in customer literature such as the Owners Guide.

The PATS uses a specially-encoded ignition key. Each encoded ignition key contains a permanently installed electronic device called a transponder. Each transponder contains a unique electronic identification code out of over 72 millionbillioncombinations.

Each encoded ignition key must be programmed into a vehicle's PATS module before it can be used to start the engine. There are special diagnostic repair procedures outlined in this manual that must be performed if the encoded ignition keysneed tobe replaced.

The encoded key is larger than a traditional ignition key. The key does not require batteries and should last the life of the vehicle.

The transceiver module communicates with the encoded ignition key. This module is located behind the steering column shroud, and contains an antenna connected to a small electronics module. During each vehicle start sequence, the transceivermodulereads the encoded ignition key identification code and sends the data to the PATS module.

The control functions are contained in the PATS module. This module performs all of the PATS functions such as receiving the identification code from the encoded ignition key and controlling engine enable. The PATS module initiates the keyinterrogation sequence when the vehicle ignition switch is turned to RUN or START.

PATS uses the p owertrain control module (PCM) to enable or disable the engine. The PATS module communicates with the PCM over the SCP communication network in order to enable engine operation. The PATS module and the PCM use sophisticatedmessagesin order to prevent a theft. The PATS and the PCM share security data when first installed together, making them a matched pair. After this security data sharing, these modules will not function in other vehicles. The PCM shared security ID isremembered even if the battery is disconnected. The PATS module also stores the vehicle's key identification code, even if the battery is disconnected. There are special diagnostic repair procedures outlined in this workshop manual that may becarriedout if either the PATS module or the PCM needs replacement.

All the elements of PATS must be functional before the engine is allowed to start. If any of the components are not working correctly, the vehicle will not start.

PATS uses a visual theft indicator. This indicator will prove out for three seconds when the ignition switch is turned to RUN or START under normal operation. If there is a PATS problem, this indicator will either flash rapidly or glowsteadilywhen the ignition switch is turned to RUN or START. PATS also "blips" the theft indicator every two seconds at ignition OFF to act as a visual theft deterrent.

PATS differs from the perimeter anti-theft system in that PATS enables and disables the engine from starting. If equipped, the perimeter anti-theft system protects the perimeter of the vehicle (doors, hood and trunk) and sounds analarm.

The PATS is not compatible with aftermarket remote start systems, which allow the vehicle to be started from outside the vehicle. These systems may reduce the vehicle security level, and also may cause no-start issues. Remote start systemsmust beremoved before investigation of PATS-related No Start issues.

The passive vehicle protection system will be activated and will disable the vehicle from starting if there is a:

  • damaged encoded key.
  • unprogrammed key.
  • non-encoded key (key has no electronics).
  • wiring concern.
  • transceiver concern.
  • PCM concern.
  • module communications network concern.
 






Pete Deering

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Wiring diagram

Screenshot_20220120-125706.png
 












Fordnutcase

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A friend of mine tried to "hotwire" his explorer because he lost the keys. Ended up buying a new ignition lock cylinder now the anti-theft is flashing rapidly when ignition is turned on and even while cranking engine. Can someone tell me what we need to do to get this car started? I don't understand how anti-theft could be triggered by replacing an ignition lock cylinder. And I have replaced a lot of ignition lock cylinders. What could he have done to trigger the anti-theft that he's not telling me? And I am so sorry if I'm not posting in
 






Pete Deering

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What engine do you have? Do have a automatic or manual? Do you have a console? What model?I need to this to post which wiring diagram you need?
 






Loren Smith

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A friend of mine tried to "hotwire" his explorer because he lost the keys. Ended up buying a new ignition lock cylinder now the anti-theft is flashing rapidly when ignition is turned on and even while cranking engine. Can someone tell me what we need to do to get this car started? I don't understand how anti-theft could be triggered by replacing an ignition lock cylinder. And I have replaced a lot of ignition lock cylinders. What could he have done to trigger the anti-theft that he's not telling me? And I am so sorry if I'm not posting in the right place as this is my first time here.
Hi there. I had a 2001 ST with a similar issue. I solved it quite easily. I went to a scrap yard with a similar year ST. I bought the ECU (computer box) AND the ignition lock cylinder AND the key from the junk truck. Installed them in mine and it started right up. Cost was $65. Seems the ECU will look for a particular ignition cylinder so you must have all 3....cylinder, key, ECU.

The tricky part was getting the ID number off the ECU. You must get an identically numbered ECU, to my knowledge. I removed my old one and took it with me because the scrap yard wanted it for a core(??).

Good Luck!
 






Mbrooks420

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Hi there. I had a 2001 ST with a similar issue. I solved it quite easily. I went to a scrap yard with a similar year ST. I bought the ECU (computer box) AND the ignition lock cylinder AND the key from the junk truck. Installed them in mine and it started right up. Cost was $65. Seems the ECU will look for a particular ignition cylinder so you must have all 3....cylinder, key, ECU.

The tricky part was getting the ID number off the ECU. You must get an identically numbered ECU, to my knowledge. I removed my old one and took it with me because the scrap yard wanted it for a core(??).

Good Luck!
The cylinder/receiver are generic. No need to replace them for the PATS to function. Just need the computer to say “hey that’s a key in memory”.
 






hermosatrout

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I have a 99 Explorer with an alarm/anti-theft system. I'm not sure if it is the same system that you have, but as far as I know there isn't any chip in my ignition key. Anyway, I've had troubles several times where it was stuck in a theft mode and wouldn't start. I've always been able to recover by disconnecting the battery for several minutes to reset the computer. Sometimes I've had to disconnect the battery several times. I suggest closing the doors, unlocking car with FOB, then disconnect the battery.
 






Justinwht

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Fun fact... If you hold your factory key next to the lock, the RF chip will allow a standard key copy to start engine.
 



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J_C

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^ Not sure about overseas markets but a US '99 Explorer does have the PATS 2 system with microchipped keys. That is why the key head plastic is so large... should be a Ford H72-PT

H72-PT key - Google Search

Even so, yes disconnecting the battery for a moment can sometimes reset it, but this is not normal to have to do, some other fault is causing it.
 






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