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98 Explorer anti-theft

Flimti

Member
Joined
January 18, 2022
Messages
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City, State
Hawthorne, Ca.
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Ford Explorer xlt
A friend of mine tried to "hotwire" his explorer because he lost the keys. Ended up buying a new ignition lock cylinder now the anti-theft is flashing rapidly when ignition is turned on and even while cranking engine. Can someone tell me what we need to do to get this car started? I don't understand how anti-theft could be triggered by replacing an ignition lock cylinder. And I have replaced a lot of ignition lock cylinders. What could he have done to trigger the anti-theft that he's not telling me? And I am so sorry if I'm not posting in the right place as this is my first time here.
 



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A friend of mine tried to "hotwire" his explorer because he lost the keys. Ended up buying a new ignition lock cylinder now the anti-theft is flashing rapidly when ignition is turned on and even while cranking engine. Can someone tell me what we need to do to get this car started? I don't understand how anti-theft could be triggered by replacing an ignition lock cylinder. And I have replaced a lot of ignition lock cylinders. What could he have done to trigger the anti-theft that he's not telling me? And I am so sorry if I'm not posting in the right place as this is my first time here.
Welcome, to the group and to the Ford World of PATS. The Security System. Not trying to be smart-ass this System has befuddled folks since it's inception.
There are posts throughout this Forum dealing with PATS, so look around, be patient, and don't let the System get you down.
C.J.
 






We probably need more info, but from what I'm gathering, the keys were never found, so this is a case of using a new key that is keyed to the ignition cylinder but not programmed into the system as a valid key?

If that is the case then you need to program it (new key chip) in, but a scan tool capable of ford specific codes should give you a PATS code for why it's not enabling starting.

If on the other hand, friend found his lost key, and that no longer works with the new cylinder (why is this even an issue? Only a theft attempt should have broken the cylinder instead of the slower, more careful-owner method of removing the cylinder to turn the ignition switch without it locking it?!!!) then look at what "wire(s)" were disturbed trying to hotwire it, or possibly the PATS transceiver module (around the ignition cylinder in the steering column) was damaged, or the wiring to it. You have to know what he did, to undo it.

It's a bit fishy, this situation where the owner isn't inquiring on his own behalf, like someone just rammed a screwdriver in and forced the lock cylinder and now wonders what to do next. Just sayin'... for whatever reason, mistakes were made.
 






We probably need more info, but from what I'm gathering, the keys were never found, so this is a case of using a new key that is keyed to the ignition cylinder but not programmed into the system as a valid key?

If that is the case then you need to program it (new key chip) in, but a scan tool capable of ford specific codes should give you a PATS code for why it's not enabling starting.

If on the other hand, friend found his lost key, and that no longer works with the new cylinder (why is this even an issue? Only a theft attempt should have broken the cylinder instead of the slower, more careful-owner method of removing the cylinder to turn the ignition switch without it locking it?!!!) then look at what "wire(s)" were disturbed trying to hotwire it, or possibly the PATS transceiver module (around the ignition cylinder in the steering column) was damaged, or the wiring to it. You have to know what he did, to undo it.

It's a bit fishy, this situation where the owner isn't inquiring on his own behalf, like someone just rammed a screwdriver in and forced the lock cylinder and now wonders what to do next. Just sayin'... for whatever reason, mistakes were made.
Great info JC
 






Great info JC
Okay, first thank you for such a quick response. And now I got a clearer explanation from my buddy. His girlfriend took the keys for the Explorer so he wouldn't go anywhere. And he thinking he's Mr MacGyver, broke the lock cylinder in the car so that she wouldn't drive off herself. Then he went and bought a new lock cylinder with two keys. And car never started after that. I went to go look at the car and noticed that the theft light on the instrument panel was flashing rapidly even while the motor was cranking. And I believe that was the reason that the car will not start. But does the system only disable the fuel pump or is the horn supposed to be blaring also when cranking the engine over with a different key and lock cylinder? I used the door keypad to lock the car and after about a minute or so I opened the door with the window rolled down and the alarm came on. I punched in the code on the keypad and the alarm stopped. I thought that since we were able to buy the ignition lock cylinder from an auto parts store that a typical installation of a new lock cylinder would be a matter of just plugging it in and let the computer read it to learn it with a few simple steps. But now I'm kind of befuddled.
 






It’s the PATS system. It will never restart without:
1. Getting the original key
2. Having a locksmith program your new key

The code doesn’t matter at all. You can also do it with FORScan, but I think that’ll be above your buddies head, as he’s obviously no quiz kid.

I’d come up with a new story, it makes little sense. Breaking your ignition to disable a car, when you could have just pulled a battery cable, or better yet, just gotten your key back is a little sus.
 






It’s the PATS system. It will never restart without:
1. Getting the original key
2. Having a locksmith program your new key

The code doesn’t matter at all. You can also do it with FORScan, but I think that’ll be above your buddies head, as he’s obviously no quiz kid.

I’d come up with a new story, it makes little sense. Breaking your ignition to disable a car, when you could have just pulled a battery cable, or better yet, just gotten your key back is a little sus.
I
It’s the PATS system. It will never restart without:
1. Getting the original key
2. Having a locksmith program your new key

The code doesn’t matter at all. You can also do it with FORScan, but I think that’ll be above your buddies head, as he’s obviously no quiz kid.

I’d come up with a new story, it makes little sense. Breaking your ignition to disable a car, when you could have just pulled a battery cable, or better yet, just gotten your key back is a little sus.
Thank you. We all agree that my buddy is not the sharpest tool in the shed. This is not the first time he has done anything stupid and it probably won't be the last but damage is done and I already warned him that it will be the last time I do a favor on his car. I have done many other things on his car like the water pump, heater core, broken windows, tune-up, and regular oil changes. And yes compensated me for things I've done, But never quite anything that had to do with the anti-theft system. And now I'm looking to this forum for help, in this area of trouble where the only thing I know is that when the theft indicator light is flashing rapidly something is disabled to prevent it from starting. But if every help I will receive in this forum is going to bash my friend whom we all know is an idiot, then I would apologize for troubling anyone and I suppose I can seek another forum who is willing to help me rectify his mistake. I also am irritated with him but he is my friend and whenever we need him in other things he will walk if he doesn't have a car.

Now I know that you mentioned two options.
Find the old key or get a locksmith to reprogram the new key. But even if he recovered the old key that wouldn't help if the lock cylinder has been replaced, would it? Next question, what is forscan?
Is it a regular OBD2 scanner for checking DTC's? Or is it a little more sophisticated than that?
 






The lock cylinder has nothing to do with the key. There’s a separate RF receiver. FORScan is a programming software that works on a laptop.

Best bet is just to get the factory key. If he didn’t hose the wiring, it’ll just work. He could even move the original chip to the new key.

Second best bet is to have the new key added by a mobile locksmith.
 






The lock cylinder has nothing to do with the key. There’s a separate RF receiver. FORScan is a programming software that works on a laptop.

Best bet is just to get the factory key. If he didn’t hose the wiring, it’ll just work. He could even move the original chip to the new key.

Second best bet is to have the new key added by a mobile locksmith.
What do you call the component part that you stick the key in to turn the ignition on, isn't that called an ignition lock cylinder? Where the tumblers are situated? Correct me if I'm wrong.
 






Yes. That only cares about the cut of the key, it’s got nothing to do with the anti theft.
 






If he finds the old key, he (or a locksmith) can just rekey the new lock cylinder to match the key. That is the best, next step. Otherwise, program in the new key(s), but then they won't work on the doors or hatch so those will need rekeyed too. Depends on how much he can DIY, otherwise for maybe $300-400 (this high due to pulling and rekeying or replacing the lock cylinder too) a dealership can use the VIN to determine the factory key and make and program in a new one along with a keyed cylinder that matches the existing locks. A locksmith might do that too, except the locksmith will have to reverse engineer the key cut to match existing locks instead of looking it up through the VIN, so hard to guess if it's more or less expensive than a dealership shop.
 






Yes. That only cares about the cut of the key, it’s got nothing to do with the anti theft.
Okay so suppose that part that only cares about the cut of the key is broken and he has the original key, how is the original key going to turn a broken ignition lock cylinder to crank the engine? It cannot because the ignition lock cylinder is broken so he went and bought a new ignition lock that came with two keys, installed it and now the engine turns over but won't start. And it won't start because apparently the new keys were not programmed for this vehicle because the indicator theft light is flashing rapidly. Now what do you suggest the next step is after that
If he finds the old key, he (or a locksmith) can just rekey the new lock cylinder to match the key. That is the best, next step. Otherwise, program in the new key(s), but then they won't work on the doors or hatch so those will need rekeyed too. Depends on how much he can DIY, otherwise for maybe $300-400 (this high due to pulling and rekeying or replacing the lock cylinder too) a dealership can use the VIN to determine the factory key and make and program in a new one along with a keyed cylinder that matches the existing locks. A locksmith might do that too, except the locksmith will have to reverse engineer the key cut to match existing locks instead of looking it up through the VIN, so hard to guess if it's more or less expensive than a dealership shop.
Okay JC, I believe that you know exactly what the situation is because this advice fits the situation that I can see with my eyes. I want to thank you for your time and patience with me and I will let you know the results. I also want to thank MBrooks for all his advice, and I appreciate all the time and effort he put in to help me. God bless you all!
 






The PATS checks the key code each time the ignition is turned on. If the code received is one stored in the PATS, it allows the engine to start, after it stops the THEFT light from flashing. When you turn the ignition on, if the THEFT light flashes, the key code test failed, so don't waste time cranking the engine. The THEFT light must not flash.

Also check the PATS code receiver, the small device mounted to the side of the key cylinder. That is fragile and it's easy to break the plastic connector that holds it in place. That can be taped or RTV'd in place if needed, it just has to be very close there to sense the key code.

The keys can be programmed into the PATS with Forscan software and an ELM device to connect a laptop to the OBDII port. I think it still costs about $30 or so, but I've never done it yet.
 






Just pull the cover on the key. Put the old transponder in the new key. Have mismatched keys, and fix it in a free and janky way. Your friend will love it.
 






The PATS checks the key code each time the ignition is turned on. If the code received is one stored in the PATS, it allows the engine to start, after it stops the THEFT light from flashing. When you turn the ignition on, if the THEFT light flashes, the key code test failed, so don't waste time cranking the engine. The THEFT light must not flash.

Also check the PATS code receiver, the small device mounted to the side of the key cylinder. That is fragile and it's easy to break the plastic connector that holds it in place. That can be taped or RTV'd in place if needed, it just has to be very close there to sense the key code.

The keys can be programmed into the PATS with Forscan software and an ELM device to connect a laptop to the OBDII port. I think it still costs about $30 or so, but I've never done it yet.
Just pull the cover on the key. Put the old transponder in the new key. Have mismatched keys, and fix it in a free and janky way. Your friend will love it.
Okay I'm at the car right now and it look like the four wire connector that coming from the transceiver where the green connector plugs in have been cut and spliced and so I'm not sure what the color code is or the number sequence is supposed to be on that green connector. But the wiring diagram for the path system indicates different colors for the transceiver module which is at the ignition lock cylinder. Does anyone know where I can find what colors go where? And will putting the old transponder in the new key work only with the original transceiver?
 






The transceiver is a dumb device. It simply picks up the RF and checks for a match. No programming required.
 






Restore that wiring to the device, and the old key would start the car if the cylinder matched the cut of the key(or the new key with the chip swapped into it). If you don't have one of the original keys(the chip), you will have to program any new key/chip into the PATS.
 






Okay I'm at the car right now and it look like the four wire connector that coming from the transceiver where the green connector plugs in have been cut and spliced and so I'm not sure what the color code is or the number sequence is supposed to be on that green connector. But the wiring diagram for the path system indicates different colors for the transceiver module which is at the ignition lock cylinder. Does anyone know where I can find what colors go where? And will putting the old transponder in the new key work only with the original transceiver?

Wherever it's cut, wires to reconnect should still be the same color. See attached wiring diagram for colors and pinout of the connector.

If there was some aftermarket security or remote start feature, that has since been removed, there might be extra wires that don't go anywhere now, but just the 4 wires in the diagram below, have to connect from the steering column transceiver to the main PATS module.
 

Attachments

  • anti-theft-passive-anti-theft-circuit-1-of-1.pdf
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Wherever it's cut, wires to reconnect should still be the same color. See attached wiring diagram for colors and pinout of the connector.

If there was some aftermarket security or remote start feature, that has since been removed, there might be extra wires that don't go anywhere now, but just the 4 wires in the diagram below, have to connect from the steering column transceiver to the main PATS module.
Okay so there is no match between the wiring diagram and the green connector that goes into the transceiver at the ignition lock cylinder so what if you know are the pinouts on the green connector or the number designation.

Sorry I somehow hit to post my reply without finishing. But the color codes from the wiring diagram on your attachment does not match the color code from the wires connected to the green connector that goes into the transceiver so is there a designated numbering on the green connector that perhaps is out of sequence I did pull the transponder out of the old key put it into it the new key that turns the new ignition lock cylinder and no change so now I'm wondering if the pinout on the green connector is out of sequence was there something I have to do after switching transponders
 



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Are you certain that you are looking at the transceiver wiring or maybe it's the ignition switch wiring instead? Hotwiring (for someone who doesn't know any better about the PATS security needing the key chip) would usually be attempted via the ignition switch wiring.

You're welcome to download the wiring diagrams linked in my sig below, to see if you can find something.
 






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