98 explorer fuel pump question

[JPA]

This is a 98 explorer, 4 door, 2WD, 4.o sohc. I have narrowed my problem down to the fuel pump. I have read in various forums there is a way to cut through the way-back floor panel to get to the fuel pump, without dropping the gas tank. My question is where abouts do you cut to get access to the fuel lines?
Thanks,
Pete

 

[Turdle]

Dropping the tank is easier--IMO
it really just needs to be lowered--do this with 2 floor jacks--

I must add, I have a very bad back--and still say this.

 

[410Fortune]

dropping the tank takes less time then removing your seats/ center console. carpet etc and even then I anot sure in a 4 door explorer you could cut a hole in the right area for accessing the pump...

the threads you read likely deal with cars/trucks with rear mounted gas tanks.
The explorer has a side mounted tank and the pump is somewhere under the back seat I am guessing.

I can drop an explorer gas tank in about 30 minutes, working slow with hand tools.

But first lets ask, How do you know the fuel pump is faulty?

 

[BrooklynBay]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182160

 

[JPA]

To answer the question of how do I know the FP is bad. I checked it with a fuel pressure gague. Had 15 lbs pressure, changed the filter went up to 25 or so lbs. Vehicelstarted no problems, Now the POS is DOA in the parking lot of work, 27 miles from home. If my buddy cranks it over, and i push in on the schader valve, while cranking. Very little fuel if any escapes. Fuel pump bad, that's my opinion and I welcome yours.

 

[410Fortune]

very likely yes, low pressure = weak pump

Did you listen to the fuel pump prime when you turn the key?

What I was getting at is making sure its not the fuse or relay before you go dropping the tank, that is all...but it sounds like you have that covered.

98 still uses a return style fuel system I believe, in 1999 they went to a computercontrolled non return regulated system = yuk

Dont qoute me on that I have only dealt with the 96-97.5 vacuum controlled pressure regulator systems

I am with you though, if you have 15# at the rail your pump is weak or dead.

to replace the pump takes about an hour, hour and a half with learning curve.
The less gas int he tank the better but I can mamage to drop one thats 1/3 full without too much issue myself using blocks of wood and a jack

If its near empty you can mad handle that sucker by yourself no problem

 

[CDW6212R]

I looked at where cutting would be in my 99, my truck was a shell at the time. The location of the pump is not possible to reach through the floor. It is located below the curve where the back seat sets, and the rear floor, the crossmember is also in the way.

Drop the tank, and take your time with the fuel line fittings. Be very gentle with them, extremely careful, they don't usually come right out like a fuel filter. Good luck,

 

[JPA]

Thanks for all the info folks. I'll drop the tank this week, let you know how it went when I'm done. Guess I have to drive my 93 explorer this week. Life's good. Cya

 

[JPA]

A quick question, as I drop the tank. Can the fuel lines, to the pump, be removed without dropping the tank. The directions I'm following make it sound that way. There's no way on Gods earth my hands can get to the pump. Must have to lower it first, I'd guess. Any comments?

 

[CDW6212R]

You will be able to reach it when the tank drops 6-10 inches. The removal of those lines is really the hardest part of the whole job. Do not rush that task, those connections are simple, but they fight very hard when you try to disconnect them.

Take your time with those lines, get the tank down as far as possible before doing the lines. I find the best trick is to find an object like a tool box to rest the tank on, while you do the lines.

When you actually get the tool onto each line, push the two sides together, push the line as far onto the fitting as far as possible. Not the tool, the line, push the flexible line onto the fitting all the way, before pushing the tool into the connection. Hold the line on as far as possible while inserting the tool. Only after that should you pull the line off, while holding the tool into the connection. Good luck,

 

[JPA]

Ok, I finished (my son and I finished) installing the pump. The %$#$*&% thing dosen't work,no fuel pressure. I know I connected everything to the pump.
It's an aftermarke pump (Federal Mogul) The only directions were in French or Spanish. The English was missing, the bag was open. Nothing looked like it had been installed. I replaced the pump,hose, clamps, added a jumper from the kit. Installed the assembly, put 5 gals in the tank fired're up, and no pressure. Tried turning it on and off, a lot of times , still no pressure. Checked fuse, inertia switch. Checked all the connections at the pump. The fuel gague works. Thats how it sits now.
Question, is 5 gals too little to prime?
Any other Ideas?

 

[CDW6212R]

So, does this new pump make noise, the old one pushed fuel? If the pump pushed fuel out of the schrader valve, then the wiring and switching should all be good.
Do you hear noise now when the key is initially turned on? The pump should prime for about a second. If it only comes on for an instant, then check the "THEFT" light. That light on the dash should come on, and stay on while the ignition is first turned on. If it flashes then you have a PATS error with the key.

 

[Turdle]

also--do you get the check engine light when key is switched on?
How about the fuel pump relay? PCM relay?

 

[JPA]

The old pump would push fuel out the scharder valve. I don't hear any noise from the pump. I put a listening tube down the filler pipe, did not hear anything. Kinda looks like we have to try this again. I can't imagine what I could have done wrong. That's assuming I did something wrong, mind you. I'll let you how it turns out.

 

[CDW6212R]

Each time that the key is turned to on the pump should be heard, from the driver's seat. Do you get any odd lights on the dash at any time, flashing, etc?

Don't go into the tank again until you know that you have electricity going to the pump(I did my pump assuming it to be my problem, it was the key reader). If you have no noise at all, then you need to go through the whole process again, checking for power. Check the fuse, relay, the inertia switch, etc.

 

[JPA]

It's fixed and back on the road. I checked the voltage back to the pump. WE dropped the tank removed the assembly nothing looked wrong at first. My son said it looks like this connector is not seated. He pushed the connector in the connector made a snap noise, I said AHHHHHHH __ _____ ____ _______. You fill in the blanks. OBTW, My bad, I did not make sure the connector was seated. An Idiot mistake. Thanks for help guys.
I have another question concerning the tank. Is there suppose to be a skid plate under the tank?

 

[CDW6212R]

Good final outcome, most of us have done the same things.

Most of the early models had skid plates, my two 4x4's do. Regards,