98 Ranger L upper control arm ball joint stud not going into spindle

[buckz6319]

HI
I was replacing the L side lower ball joint, upper control arm with ball joint, and sway bar link

The lower ball joint was fairly easy to remove, but getting the new ball joint joint in , was a PITA..the press I got didn't do the job, felt like I was going to break the screw, at any moment, so I went back to what I know a BFH, and huge socket, ect. It took me hours to get it seated so I could put the snap ring on it.

I new ball joint had splines, but I didn't see any on the old ball joints. I am guessing it was still a factory joint

The new upper control arm with ball joint, installation was easy, but I think the diameter of the ball joint shaft is wee bit larger than the one I removed, maybe the old one was rusted so bad that it looked smaller? or did I get the wrong control arm?

I think I can spread the spindle some to get the shaft to drop in..

I would appreciate any suggestions on resolving my issue, thanks!
here is a pic of the upper control arm/ball joint

 

[koda2000]

try inserting/hammering a wedge (like a chisel) into the opening. it shouldn't take much. what brand of ball joints are you using? i've never had a problem with Moog (upper or lower).

 

[buckz6319]

try inserting/hammering a wedge (like a chisel) into the opening. it shouldn't take much. what brand of ball joints are you using? i've never had a problem with Moog (upper or lower).

thanks for the reply...I will try the chisel to open it up some, it has been a while since I have worked on a ranger.

I am doing this for a friend, and he bought the parts...not Moog...but I think this side will be the worse since it was rusted really bad, fought me all day..

 

[colintrax]

Put a screw driver in that slot and push it open a little. Ball joint should slide in. Might need to tap it with a hammer

 

[buckz6319]

Put a screw driver in that slot and push it open a little. Ball joint should slide in. Might need to tap it with a hammer

thanks! I was going to do something like that, however it looked like to me the slot already had a good bit of space. I am going back out again today to fool around with my boat engine, and work on this issue.

I will update

 

[buckz6319]

I used a thick wedge chisel and opened up the splice as much as I can without breaking it. I still can't get the ball joint shaft to go into the spindle. I am thinking that maybe this upper control arm is for the torsion bar system, or 4wd, because the old upper control arm just slid right back into the spindle...I think this 98 year model came with torsion bar suspension, however this truck has coil spring suspension

I have been wrenching for a long time, and had my share of problems over the years, however never had an issue like this

here is a pic

 

[swshawaii]

Sounds like a similar issue.

Reply #3

I can't install the LH UCA, because the ball joint stem is larger than the slot on the knuckle. I compared it to the stem on the original UCA, and the new one appears to be a little larger in diameter. I've been able to expand the slot slightly by wedging a cold chisel into it, but can't expand it wide enough to allow the b/j stem to be inserted. Even if I were able to expand it more, I'm afraid it will cause the bolt holes to be misaligned.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194453

Compare your UCA part number to RockAuto's listing.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1304525,parttype,10401

 

[buckz6319]

Sounds like a similar problem. Compare your UCA part numbers to RockAuto's listing.


http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1304525,parttype,10401

thanks! I will do that right now

 

[buckz6319]

Sounds like a similar issue.


Compare your UCA part number to RockAuto's listing.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1304525,parttype,10401

Thanks for the link, looks like these parts i have are for the torsion bar suspension, and not the coil spring suspension

Wonder what month did Ford switch the 98 Ranger from coil soring suspension to torsion bar suspension

Every time parts were ordered, they alwasy insisted on torsion suspension parts, but i knwe we had coil spring suspension

Thanks again, maybe someone will chime in on the change

 

[swshawaii]

Glad you researched before using force and damaging the spindle. RockAuto rocks huh?

The 1998-2010 2WD Ford Ranger came with an IFS coil spring front suspension. This suspension doesn't use the old I-Beam setup. Instead it uses upper and lower arms with a coil spring mounted between them. These springs are not the same springs used on the older I-Beam (TIB) suspensions.

Not all 2WD Rangers built after 1998 came with a coil spring IFS front suspension. The 2001-2005 Ford Ranger Edge and the 2006-2009 Ford Ranger Sport came with a torsion bar front suspension.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/front_suspension.shtml

 

[buckz6319]

Glad you researched before using force and damaging the spindle. RockAuto rocks huh?

always do my research, that is why I can do what I do as a Certified Shad Tree mechanic lol...no pun intended, but it's true for me lol

I have used Rockauto in the past for some parts, and Summit Racing for my engine building, they have good deals also

thanks again, and I will update this thread on my progress, maybe it will help others

 

[rb142]

The torsion bar suspension went on the 4X4, while the coil spring suspension went on the 2WD Ranger. Most of the parts are different between them.

 

[buckz6319]

The torsion bar suspension went on the 4X4, while the coil spring suspension went on the 2WD Ranger. Most of the parts are different between them.

thanks for clarifying that! I appreciate it. I thought something was up.

I am working on this truck for a close friend, and he purchased the parts, only after they were confirmed to be " Exact Fit" for 2wd ...don't know what happened from the time parts were ordered, and when we received them

 

[rb142]

I've seen "exact fit" be the wrong ones many times. If they don't have both versions clearly listed (they think there is only one), you have to be very suspicious that the one they have is the wrong one. Sometimes it is hard to tell.

 

[buckz6319]

I've seen "exact fit" be the wrong ones many times. If they don't have both versions clearly listed (they think there is only one), you have to be very suspicious that the one they have is the wrong one. Sometimes it is hard to tell.

I agree BTDT got a tee shirt for it many times...

thanks I will update this thread asap when I figure out what is going on...

 

[buckz6319]

I thought I would update this thread, and bring it to a close

When you get the correct parts to do the job, it sames time, money, effort

thanks for all the help
cheers!

 

[koda2000]

not to mention aggravation... nice job. do you have the splash guard?

 

[buckz6319]

not to mention aggravation... nice job. do you have the splash guard?

yes on the splash guards, just have to get new Christmas trees

not completely finished, have to put rear shocks, and t-stat in for him, then i am done.

I also pulled my donor boat engine today ...HUMID OUT TODAY!

total work done

Upper control arms R & L
Lower ball joints R & L
Sway bar links R & L
Outer Tie rods R & L...Inner are ok
New Shocks ALL
New pads

I will have to say that the ball joint press I got from HF was a piece of crap!. It would only press the ball joint 3/4 of the way in, before the screw felt like it wanted to " POP" and stab me in the chest. I will never use it again for a ball joint, maybe just for a HAC ....

I wish I had my Snap on press, but someone borrowed years ago, then moved with it

 

[koda2000]

yes on the splash guards, just have to get new Christmas trees

not completely finished, have to put rear shocks, and t-stat in for him, then i am done.

I also pulled my donor boat engine today ...HUMID OUT TODAY!

total work done

Upper control arms R & L
Lower ball joints R & L
Sway bar links R & L
Outer Tie rods R & L...Inner are ok
New Shocks ALL
New pads

I will have to say that the ball joint press I got from HF was a piece of crap!. It would only press the ball joint 3/4 of the way in, before the screw felt like it wanted to " POP" and stab me in the chest. I will never use it again for a ball joint, maybe just for a HAC ....

I wish I had my Snap on press, but someone borrowed years ago, then moved with it

instead of those stupid x-mas trees i used GM style push rivets. i had to enlarge the holes one size, but now the splash guards are super easy to remove/re-install. i got them at AutoZone they were a Dorman part. i'll see if i have the part number.

 

[buckz6319]

instead of those stupid x-mas trees i used GM style push rivets. i had to enlarge the holes one size, but now the splash guards are super easy to remove/re-install. i got them at AutoZone they were a Dorman part. i'll see if i have the part number.

thank you!
i will be finishing his truck tomorrow, then he has to take it to alignment