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98 sport engine removal questions

rrawlings

Member
Joined
April 6, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Sandy, utah
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 sport
This weekend I am starting the engine swap on my 4.0 SOHC and wanted to know if there are any things I should be aware of before starting. The dealer told me that a 2002 4.0 would fit in if I swapped all accessories from the old one, I hope he was right, I bought the motor already. My 98 has the dreaded chain problems and I refuse to spend more than the truck is worth to fix the problem. I bought a used motor from a rollover for less than the cam tools cost. Things look pretty straight forward but converter bolts seem like the biggest difficulty. Oh yeah how does one get the fan clutch off? The new one has a broken blade
 



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Mark the hood hinges location and remove hood, take pictures of the engine before you start, drain the fluids, remove radiator, presoak bolts with PB Blaster or other high quality penetrating oil, support transmission. Fan clutch requires a special wrench (parts store loaner) and may turn an opposite direction. My 91 had to remove the air intake plenuim to remove engine.
 






The toughest bolts will be the exhaust bolts they are a PITA

Also remove the fender flaps to get to the bell housing bolts.


Are you switching to a v8 or just swapping an SOHC?
 






Just replacing a SOHC with another SOHC. I hope the dealer knew what he was talking about when he told me the newer motor was the same as the 98
 






well if he is talking short block, then yes, however there were changes after 01 for sure.
 






I am expecting to unbolt everything except eh heads from the block and bolt all the stuff from the old motor to the new one. Hell I hope I didn't just wind up with a poke to the eye.
 






well I did an engine swap on mine last spring, although I took one from the same year. nah you will be good with the short block, in fact much better because the newer engines have the timing chain fix so you shouldnt have to worry about the timing chain problem. Are you using your oil pan, because one of the differences is the oil level sensor on some models that screws into the oil pan. I ran into that and ended up having to disconnect my sensor because the replacement engine did not have the sensor.

all other changes are related to the heads, intake and fuel system. You will be good :thumbsup:
 






do you have an automatic or manual?
 






Oh and one other PITA area is getting the starter off, it is so tight in there that you end up working blind, make sure you have the battery disconnected before you start.


Oh and for the 2 exaust bolts on each side it took a combination of 12", 6" , 4" wobble extensions and a breaker bar, and one of them I had to cut with a dremmel cause it just wouldn't budge.

Oh and to get the motor mounts off it is easiest to have about 18" of extension so your not working in a cramped space, those wobble extensions will save your butt.

All in all it took me 1 day to remove the old engine, 1 day to put the new one in and I was running the second night at about 10pm. It's not that hard with the right tools.
 






Just replacing a SOHC with another SOHC. I hope the dealer knew what he was talking about when he told me the newer motor was the same as the 98

I've been wondering the same thing for my '01 Sport 4x4 (auto). I've seen a few 3rd gen Explorer 4.0L engines and '05+ Mustang 4.0L engines for sale fairly cheap, but passed them up because I was worried they wouldn't be compatible. The engines come fairly stripped down, but I only need the longblock anyway. My intake/accessories/exhaust/oil pan/etc will be swapped over.

Most companies that sell complete engines say they are not compatible. I didn't know if they meant "as is won't drop right in" or that I couldn't swap my stuff over and make it work.
 






Well this damn thing has darkened my garage for over a year now. The past couple of weeks we have tried with little success to get out the motor. Just needed to vent on a forum of people that would understand my aggravation and frustration. I have some of the belhousing bolts out, but others either are impossible to break loose or I need the arm of a 5 year old with two extra elbows to get to them. We will keep trying, don't have much choice, either get it fixed or call the wrecking yard.
 






Earlier this winter, I did my swap using an '05 Ranger engine. I had to strip both engines down to long-blocks and swap parts over. Have about 5k miles on it and so far everything is great.

Getting the engine out is a little tricky. You need sone LONG extensions to get at the bolts at the top. I think I used three 8" long 1/2" drive extensions plus a universal joint on the end. I tried 3/8" drive extensions, but they would just twist and absorb all the torque.

Also, the trans crossmember has to be out and the trans lowered a few inches in order to get to those bolts.
 






just out of curiously, i have a spare SOHC from a 00 for my 98 sport in case something happens. both are auto's. besides the fuel system, will they swap without any problems? that, and for the bell housing bolts, would you not be able to pull the trains cross member, and tilt the motor and trans at an angle to make life a little easier to unbolt?
 






Before I started this I spoke to the dealer and was assured that the longblock fro my 98 and the 03 that the motor I have came from were the same, I have to swap all electrical and fuel system, and accessories. Also I have found that I have to swap at least the upper thermostat housing, the nwer one is mission one sensor location. Other than that it looks like a doable undertaking.
 






Thank you for the info on lowering the trans crossmember, I will try that tomorrow.
 






No problem.

When I did mine, I looked at every part bolted to both engines. Anything different got swapped over. You might need to change the cam covers too. They are different, but might still be usable.

Good luck with the swap.
 






already planned on swapping covers, in fact I have the new motor down to the block, heads, water pump and flexplate. Everything else comes from old motor.
 






IIRC, you can pull the console and floor pan access panel and those bolts will be right in front of you.

And your dealer was correct. You should be able to take the new long block and swap everything from your engine. That may include tin...so be very careful that it matches. If you have to swap the pan, make sure you check out the oil pick up that it is the same or gets swapped. Use all your old sensors and actuators...unless you are certain the new ones are the same. For those folks who are doing this in front of a manual transmission, make sure there is a pilot bearing/bushing in the new motor. And maybe more important, make sure the new motor's crankshaft is machined to accept a pilot bearing! Many auto trans motors are not machined for that...
 






My son and an uncle got a few bolts closer to having this thing out.
 



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GOT IT OUT :) Looks like the long dead ex will be back on the road in a week or so as time permits
 






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