'99 5.0 AWD Front Driveshaft Options?

[Thallarsen]

The CV is toast in my front driveshaft. Since the clicking was clearly the sound that a bad CV makes, and it was reverberating through my front driver's side wheel, I thought for sure it was a bad driver's side CV axle.
After replacing the CV axle, the sound persisted.
Got it up on 4 jack stands and let it idle in gear. "Click click click" was reverberating through my front driveshaft...so off it came.
The shaft CV grease boot is completely torn and the CV joint is sloppy.
I can't be too pissed....250k on the truck.

So what are my options for replacing this front shaft CV?
NAPA lists complete front driveshafts (p/n NMD 931111 or NMD 931112).
I assume that the CV isn't serviceable & therefore replacing the shaft as a complete unit is the only option.
...or are there options other than replacing the entire front shaft.
If not, is $300 the best price I'm going to find?

Thanks..

 

[swetrid]

Rockauto sells a repair kit if you are handy.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Just went through the same with my 98. I picked mine up at a napa distribution center for $240 so shop around a little. There are 2 lengths, 22-7/8 and 23-3/4. Not exactly sure where you measure from though as mine taped just under 24" from the yoke weld to the step down, but ended up being the shorter one after comparing the new and old side by side.

You can rebuild the shaft yourself for about half the cost, assuming it hasn't bent (found out the expensive way as I replaced the cv & u-joint then ended up with highway speed vibration but was otherwise silent and smooth). The cv has a cupped cap on the end which pops off. Wipe off the grease and you'll see there is a c-clip that keeps the joint from sliding off the splines. With the clip off the cv might slide right off, otherwise a few sharp taps from a large hammer with a brass punch convinced mine to come off. The new one slipped cleanly on the splines and clipped tight. I think the time it took to replace the cv was maybe 10 minutes as it took a couple tries to figure out how to secure the boot strap. U-joint is the standard: take off the clips & hammer the caps out. New ones push in being careful to keep the needle bearings in place then replace the clips.

Whichever way you procede, be sure the new joint turns smoothly and easily with no binding. Also re-torque the bolts after driving a little while.

 

[corkey]

David Delli Paoli I got that part from my local drive shaft shop. Around 50 bucks.
September 6 at 9:46pm · Like
David Delli Paoli Lake County CV 847-537-7588. He will ship and can order anything

 

[corkey]

that part was used to put a Superlift double cardan driveshaft on a cv style transfer case output cup,,

 

[Thallarsen]

Rockauto sells a repair kit if you are handy.

Can't seem to find a front shaft CV repair kit...only the shaft itself. How would I look up the repair kit?

EDIT:
When I search Autozone & NAPA for Driveshaft CV repair, I get Dorman 923-201. That agrees with the 4WD CV repair kit @ Rock Auto (no listing for AWD):

I assume that this is what you're talking about:

1999 FORD EXPLORER 5.0L 302cid V8 FI (P) OHV : Drivetrain : CV Joint
DORMAN Part # 932201 Prop Shaft High Speed CV Joint
Rear; 4WD; Transfer case end of Front Prop Shaft

 

[drbenz]

The listing at RockAuto is hidden in plain sight, look under cv joint.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Can't seem to find a front shaft CV repair kit...only the shaft itself. How would I look up the repair kit?

EDIT:
When I search Autozone & NAPA for Driveshaft CV repair, I get Dorman 923-201. That agrees with the 4WD CV repair kit @ Rock Auto (no listing for AWD):

I assume that this is what you're talking about:

1999 FORD EXPLORER 5.0L 302cid V8 FI (P) OHV : Drivetrain : CV Joint
DORMAN Part # 932201 Prop Shaft High Speed CV Joint
Rear; 4WD; Transfer case end of Front Prop Shaft

That is the correct one. By the way, I personally prefer using the hex head bolts included in the kit but they are shorter than the originals. When you assemble the cv, they aren't long enough until reach the threads until the cup and joint are pressed together from bolt tightening. I bolted together the first time with the orginals then replaced with the new bolts.

 

[Thallarsen]

Went ahead & ordered from RockAuto as opposed to buying the same kit & U joint from NAPA for $40 more. Hopefully it will ship soon & saving the $ will be worth the day or two wait.
I assume that it needs to be packed w/bearing grease before crimping the boot clamp. Is that the case? I'm going on the assumption that some Locktite on all the little bolts is probably a good measure - even if the manual doesn't call for it.
RomeovilleIL, thanks for the tip! It's little things like that that make the job easier - particularly when the truck is on 4 jackstands & you're working from a creeper in the driveway. I'm can't flop down & pop up from that creeper like I used to
Funny story:
My wife asked me if the truck was going to be up on stands while the little ones came to the door trick-or-treating tonight. Unfortunately, yes. Instead of taking it down, I made a dummy w/jeans & boots, slid him under the front wheel and lowered the jack on his legs. I'll have a dim worklight under the car & my groaning CD playing in Explorer on repeat. It's pretty creepy looking/sounding.
My wife is now okay with this since the car on stands looks less junkyard & more graveyard

 

[Turdle]

Now that's thinking outside the box--awesome!

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Instead of taking it down, I made a dummy w/jeans & boots, slid him under the front wheel and lowered the jack on his legs. I'll have a dim worklight under the car & my groaning CD playing in Explorer on repeat.

Don't need a holiday, sounds like standard working conditions - a dummy (me) slid under the truck groaning and cursing. LOL!

 

[SoNic67]

Awesome idea with tonight - kids will be scared straight to work on their cars latter in life

I might need this information sooner or latter - I have a slight noise in the front too, I just cannot pinpoint where it comes from...

 

[AuroraZero]

I know this is an old thread but I would like to know how this went. I need to do this to my 98 and I am wondering if it was fairly straight forward or a real PITA. If someone has done this and there is a link with pics I would appreciate it also. I have been looking for information on this for over an hour now. Just happened this came up finally lol.

 

[Thallarsen]

It went well for me. Bad Front Shaft CV was the problem, without question. Everything's quiet and tight now.
If you want to spend a bit more $ buy the entire shaft assembly, rebuilt. Less labor involved as you don't have to reuse your driveshaft, etc.
I chose the money saving option.
On a PITA scale of 1-10, I'd say it's a 6. Not due to complexity, but due to the crawling-under-the-car, getting greasy & swapping out reusable parts scale. I suggest replacing the front U Joint while you're at it (see above).
You need to use Romeoville's procedure in post #8 where he says to use at least two of the original bolts to get the new cup mated/threaded up. Put the new hex head bolts in the open holes and remove the longer original bolts. You won't be able to do it by simply using the replacement hex head bolts for initial reassembly....he's right, they're too short to grab.
Regarding how to prepare the vehicle, put it up on 4 jackstands on level ground if possible. This will allow you to turn the front & rear driveshafts to properly position for reinstallation.
If you can't go with the jackstand method and are relying on a single jack, make sure you chock the wheels and fully set your parking brake, because some people have said that once the rear shaft is disconnected from the transfer case, the Park pawl becomes ineffective and the truck can roll. I can't confirm this, but better safe than sorry.

 

[AuroraZero]

It went well for me. Bad Front Shaft CV was the problem, without question. Everything's quiet and tight now.
If you want to spend a bit more $ buy the entire shaft assembly, rebuilt. Less labor involved as you don't have to reuse your driveshaft, etc.
I chose the money saving option.
On a PITA scale of 1-10, I'd say it's a 6. Not due to complexity, but due to the crawling-under-the-car, getting greasy & swapping out reusable parts scale. I suggest replacing the front U Joint while you're at it (see above).
You need to use Romeoville's procedure in post #8 where he says to use at least two of the original bolts to get the new cup mated/threaded up. Put the new hex head bolts in the open holes and remove the longer original bolts. You won't be able to do it by simply using the replacement hex head bolts for initial reassembly....he's right, they're too short to grab.
Regarding how to prepare the vehicle, put it up on 4 jackstands on level ground if possible. This will allow you to turn the front & rear driveshafts to properly position for reinstallation.
If you can't go with the jackstand method and are relying on a single jack, make sure you chock the wheels and fully set your parking brake, because some people have said that once the rear shaft is disconnected from the transfer case, the Park pawl becomes ineffective and the truck can roll. I can't confirm this, but better safe than sorry.

I don't have to worry about taking the shaft out as the genius I got it from took it out for me. He was smart enough to save all the parts for me though. I planned on doing the u-joint also. I figured it was out and so why not do it. I ordered the parts last night and started stripping the drive shaft. That did not come apart to badly looks pretty straight forward for reassembly but I will adhere to any advice, and/or wisdom, anyone has to give me. I will be jack standing the truck with two jack backups. Wish I had a lift but alas maybe Santa will be nice to me next year lol.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

The rebuild on the shaft is not hard. Put your CV joint in place and c-clip it. All the rest goes together loosely and is pressed together by the assembly bolts when you attach it to the t-case.

Suggestions:

Check the shaft with a straight edge to confirm it is not bent. I used a 18" ruler going lengthwise on 4 sides and found some gaps running opposite each other. Total was likely under 1/2" total deflection along the length of the shaft, but was plenty to cause vibration with new joints at highway speed.

Be careful not to flex the CV very far before everything is assembled or the bearings can slip out. Found out they are very difficult to put back in place when I pulled everything apart for the 3rd time before finding the bent shaft.

1 long and 1 short 3/8" extension with a wobble is your friend to get to the bolts easily. Did I mention a preference for the hex headed bolts? Much better for getting a socket in them straight a opposed to having a standard 6-point at an angle on the originals.

As always keep everything clean inside the new joints so you don't have grit quickly wear it down.

 

[AuroraZero]

The rebuild on the shaft is not hard. Put your CV joint in place and c-clip it. All the rest goes together loosely and is pressed together by the assembly bolts when you attach it to the t-case.

Suggestions:

Check the shaft with a straight edge to confirm it is not bent. I used a 18" ruler going lengthwise on 4 sides and found some gaps running opposite each other. Total was likely under 1/2" total deflection along the length of the shaft, but was plenty to cause vibration with new joints at highway speed.

Be careful not to flex the CV very far before everything is assembled or the bearings can slip out. Found out they are very difficult to put back in place when I pulled everything apart for the 3rd time before finding the bent shaft.

1 long and 1 short 3/8" extension with a wobble is your friend to get to the bolts easily. Did I mention a preference for the hex headed bolts? Much better for getting a socket in them straight a opposed to having a standard 6-point at an angle on the originals.

As always keep everything clean inside the new joints so you don't have grit quickly wear it down.

I will adhere to this very closely. Might have to wait a bit though as temps dropped into the teens here today and winds are strong. Started snowing also, Wish I had moved I like I planned to this summer lol. Oh well waiting on parts now anyways. Hope to do an update as it progresses.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Now that I'm thinking about it the reman shaft it was all pressed together and went on much more smoothly than trying to keep the loose pieces in place while threading the bolts. Seeing as how laying on the ground wrenching in the cold is a treat which should be enjoyed in moderation, you might consider pressing the pieces together on a bench using the bolts and some nuts. It likely won't seat the center cap but would certainly get the bottom cup and cv ring together. There should be 6 bolts and 3 metal plates with 2 holes in them. Make sure there is a bolt in all 6 holes to keep everything straight then put a plate on both sides (head and nut) while you tighten down to keep the pressure spread out.

Once the parts are in place putting the prop shaft back into the truck really isn't that bad. There is a little fumbling around to get the first couple bolts lined up correctly but past that it is not difficult.

After you bolt the CV nice and tight, then slowly turn the shaft by hand with trans in neutral to line up the u-joint. The cap straps are a simple bolt on with star driver (#25 or #27 I think) as no room for a socket on outside of bolt head. I swapped the shaft in the parking lot in about 30 minutes.

I see you have a 4x4 pickup. If you have never driven an AWD before you may be surprised how much better it handles snow and wet pavement.

 

[AuroraZero]

I was wondering if putting it together with some bolts and nuts beforehand might seat things together better. You just answered that question for me thank you.

Couldn't you turn the shaft until the both the holes and the u-joint line up before putting any bolts in? That way you do not have to put the truck in neutral and spin the prop at all.

I had an old AMC AWD a long time ago. I hope this is as good as that was in the snow. That car was a beast and a half lol. Didn't look great but ran good and would go places most 4x4's barked at going.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Couldn't you turn the shaft until the both the holes and the u-joint line up before putting any bolts in? That way you do not have to put the truck in neutral and spin the prop at all.

I suppose it's possible but honestly I suspect it would be extremely difficult to do in practice. It's not like you are turning the shaft round and round. Just getting +/- 60 degrees (360 degree circle divided by 6 bolts). I think you are forgetting that AWD center tc is a viscous coupler and not locked. You cannot turn the front shaft with the truck in park but the front and rear shafts will turn independant of each other when the truck is in neutral. You absolutely do not have to move the truck or have the tires off the ground. Chock the front and back tires and lift the frame with a jack a little behind the left front door if you need extra space to work. Once the CV is bolted on a firm steady twist will turn the shaft in the tc and let you line up the ujoint. It is stiff but not difficult and will not harm the truck as it was made to do this. In fact being cold will make the process easier as the tc is designed to increase friction as the fluid gets hotter.

** Edit - small detail I almost forgot: put some tape around the caps on the ujoint while you are working on the cv end so they dont accidentally get knocked off while you move the shaft around.