99 explorer v6 Cat glowing red hot only after putting in drive in a couple min

[Block Maker]

Hello and I hope someone can answer this for me. I put a used transmission in my 99 explorer v6. Engine was running good minus the transmission problems. Well now transmission is fine but now after that being installed. Now when I put it in drive it immediately starts running like crap and if I drive fifty feet by the time I stop the car the muffler is glowing red hot. No issues before replacement of tranny. And I don't believe it goes bad just like that. Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

[J_C]

Pull the OBDII trouble codes, odds are some wire was disturbed causing a misfire so unburnt fuel is being dumped into the exhaust.

 

[Block Maker]

I had them read I am getting a misfire on one four and six. I'm guessing four and six are because the wires were backwards one I checked both the plug and wire and it checks okay. I was also getting a lean code. I did just put new plugs and wires in the possibility they were bad or became so while putting them in? I'm confused as to where my problem is.

 

[shucker1]

If the cat is glowing red it could be clogged.

Ruined now.

Try and find the cause first before you destroy another converter.

 

[Machine090767]

You have cooked your Cats.

 

[Block Maker]

If the cat is glowing red it could be clogged.

Ruined now.

Try and find the cause first before you destroy another converter.

I'm wondering if in the midst of all the repair work I dropped one end on the connector to the O2 sensor after the cats in old oil and tranny fluid I cleaned it the best I could before finally getting electrical contact cleaner, yes it was plugged in before. And I thought I had to take the exhaust apart to get my tranny out so flange coming off the block was taken loose it has been tightened but it was rough. And I also noticed today that there was a crack more than likely from my knee is in the plastic cover on top of my engine. It's not broke just cracked. Could any of these things made my cat go bad. I know I'm not the best at fixing but I'm learning and try to not repeat my mistakes. Thank you for your time

 

[shucker1]

A bad connection at the O2 sensor should have set off the check engine light or CEL.

Cats usually clog up due to excess fuel getting past the engine and burning off in the converter or a coolant leak that gets into the combustion chamber somehow.

I would seriously recheck all ignition wiring to make sure its correct and pull your spark plugs to see what they look like.

A black plug would mean a fouled plug that is not firing or a cylinder running rich.

All of that could dump excess fuel.

Next I would get a hold of a vacuum gauge, hook it up and run the engine at an idle.

Good vacuum should be about 15" Hg. If your gauge gradually drops off while the engine is an Idle you have a serious clog.

Might be a good idea to slightly increase engine speed during the test and watch what the gauge does.

Bouncing needle could be a bad valve or weak valve spring.

As for the bad cat....

The inside is made up of a honeycomb type ceramic structure. A few good zaps with a ball peen hammer and it will shatter the inside like glass and you can at least get it running for further testing.

Another user @imp has done this before for testing only.

Since the inside of the converter will basically be destroyed in this process there is no turning back once you commit.

You should start getting a "Check Engine Light" because the computer sees the converter as not working.

Please get the converter replaced as soon a s you can. We ALL get to breath the same air...

I notice that your up there in TN so the bad air is going to make it down here a lot faster that it would if you were in CA.

By no means am I a "Tree Hugger" but we all need to do our part. I think several members of this forum would agree.

I'm actually one of those "Evil People" that work in the oil field that "Tree Huggers" don't like.

 

[Block Maker]

A bad connection at the O2 sensor should have set off the check engine light or CEL.

Cats usually clog up due to excess fuel getting past the engine and burning off in the converter or a coolant leak that gets into the combustion chamber somehow.

I would seriously recheck all ignition wiring to make sure its correct and pull your spark plugs to see what they look like.

A black plug would mean a fouled plug that is not firing or a cylinder running rich.

All of that could dump excess fuel.

Next I would get a hold of a vacuum gauge, hook it up and run the engine at an idle.

Good vacuum should be about 15" Hg. If your gauge gradually drops off while the engine is an Idle you have a serious clog.

Might be a good idea to slightly increase engine speed during the test and watch what the gauge does.

Bouncing needle could be a bad valve or weak valve spring.

As for the bad cat....

The inside is made up of a honeycomb type ceramic structure. A few good zaps with a ball peen hammer and it will shatter the inside like glass and you can at least get it running for further testing.

Another user @imp has done this before for testing only.

Since the inside of the converter will basically be destroyed in this process there is no turning back once you commit.

You should start getting a "Check Engine Light" because the computer sees the converter as not working.

Please get the converter replaced as soon a s you can. We ALL get to breath the same air...

I notice that your up there in TN so the bad air is going to make it down here a lot faster that it would if you were in CA.

By no means am I a "Tree Hugger" but we all need to do our part. I think several members of this forum would agree.

I'm actually one of those "Evil People" that work in the oil field that "Tree Huggers" don't like.

I appreciate your help and response and by all means I agree about getting it fixed correctly. Me vehicle runs fine while in idle not missing no foul smell out the exhaust. Only when I put it in drive it makes my cat start sounding like little pings and then starts to get hot and glow. Even while driving it it runs okay until I press the gas more than just barely it acts as though it isn't getting through somewhere.

 

[Block Maker]

A bad connection at the O2 sensor should have set off the check engine light or CEL.

Cats usually clog up due to excess fuel getting past the engine and burning off in the converter or a coolant leak that gets into the combustion chamber somehow.

I would seriously recheck all ignition wiring to make sure its correct and pull your spark plugs to see what they look like.

A black plug would mean a fouled plug that is not firing or a cylinder running rich.

All of that could dump excess fuel.

Next I would get a hold of a vacuum gauge, hook it up and run the engine at an idle.

Good vacuum should be about 15" Hg. If your gauge gradually drops off while the engine is an Idle you have a serious clog.

Might be a good idea to slightly increase engine speed during the test and watch what the gauge does.

Bouncing needle could be a bad valve or weak valve spring.

As for the bad cat....

The inside is made up of a honeycomb type ceramic structure. A few good zaps with a ball peen hammer and it will shatter the inside like glass and you can at least get it running for further testing.

Another user @imp has done this before for testing only.

Since the inside of the converter will basically be destroyed in this process there is no turning back once you commit.

You should start getting a "Check Engine Light" because the computer sees the converter as not working.

Please get the converter replaced as soon a s you can. We ALL get to breath the same air...

I notice that your up there in TN so the bad air is going to make it down here a lot faster that it would if you were in CA.

By no means am I a "Tree Hugger" but we all need to do our part. I think several members of this forum would agree.

I'm actually one of those "Evil People" that work in the oil field that "Tree Huggers" don't like.

And my check engine light is on will go if when I disconnect the negative but as soon as start driving it comes back on. While idling it is fine

 

[shucker1]

Only when I put it in drive it makes my cat start sounding like little pings and then starts to get hot and glow.

Have you tried checking the timing with a timing light? Little pings you say? Almost sounds like fuel detonating in the exhaust manifold.

How is throttle response and power? I'm not a V-6 expert but I have seen threads where the rubber in the harmonic has failed or slipped causing retarded timing.

Late timing will burn extra fuel and run it out the exhaust.

Just a thought.

 

[shucker1]

Misfiring or leaking fuel injector could cause that as well.

 

[Block Maker]

Have you tried checking the timing with a timing light? Little pings you say? Almost sounds like fuel detonating in the exhaust manifold.

How is throttle response and power? I'm not a V-6 expert but I have seen threads where the rubber in the harmonic has failed or slipped causing retarded timing.

Late timing will burn extra fuel and run it out the exhaust.

Just a thought.

Throttle response and power suck

 

[Block Maker]

Throttle response and power suck

And the pings are coming from where the cat is the first one

 

[Block Maker]

Throttle response and power suck

And the pings are coming from where the cat is the first one

 

[shucker1]

Burning excess fuel.

Now we are getting deeper.

Check timing first.

Then check throttle position sensor (TPS) reaction. Bad readings from the TPS could be telling the computer the throttle is open wider that it is thus dumping excess fuel.

Check the "Stickey Section" on this forum for test procedures.

Or the clogged cat could be causing this lack of response.

Before I busted the cats I would use the old K.I.S.S principle. (Keep It Simple Stupid)...

Check a lot of other stuff first before destroying a $500.00 converter.

Sometimes if a converter is not too far gone and the problem gets fixed you can get it back to working again.

 

[Turdle]

Let back up please.
do not clear your CEL until you get a good set of codes to work from.

The CEL should have been mentioned in your very first post, along with the codes. It is not just an idiot light. The stored codes would most likely point you to your problem.

Have your codes read, and write them down.

 

[Block Maker]

Burning excess fuel.

Now we are getting deeper.

Check timing first.

Then check throttle position sensor (TPS) reaction. Bad readings from the TPS could be telling the computer the throttle is open wider that it is thus dumping excess fuel.

Check the "Stickey Section" on this forum for test procedures.

Or the clogged cat could be causing this lack of response.

Before I busted the cats I would use the old K.I.S.S principle. (Keep It Simple Stupid)...

Check a lot of other stuff first before destroying a $500.00 converter.

Sometimes if a converter is not too far gone and the problem gets fixed you can get it back to working again.

I will start to check all the things mentioned. I haven't busted the cat.i don't want to until one this is fixed correctly or I have no other option and one thing I know is I have tons of other options before that happens. Thank you sir i will update as soon as I have ran these tests.

 

[Block Maker]

Let back up please.
do not clear your CEL until you get a good set of codes to work from.

The CEl should have been mentioned in your very first post. It is not just an idiot light. The stored codes would most likely point you to your problem.

Have your codes read, and write them down.

I'm going to get them read again and I will write them down. The only reason I cleared then the first time is only because I found a vacuum line come loose and thought maybe the computer was still reading them wrong. And I was fifteen miles from my house and did not want to get my car trailer to tow it home. I did didn't make it five miles before I parked it and good a ride to the house. I really appreciate yours and the other guys help. I will get back with updates as soon as I run a few tests. Thank you sir

 

[shucker1]

No worries Mate.

We are here to help.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Have a real close look for a melt hole or crack in your intake manifold as well as any another vacuum leak