'99 ohv 4.0 cam build | Page 12 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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'99 ohv 4.0 cam build

Im new to the forum, wondering if anyone has any suggestions or advice. Goal is to cam it, head milling,porting and polishing, and a single 2.5inch exhaust with a good 87 octane tune. Motor has 153k on it. All stock car. Parts list so far:

Sealed Power ZH2244 roller lifters, $40 a piece
Comp 49-422-8 camshaft, $300

As you can tell I need some advice on rods, valve springs, rocker arms, and gaskets, or anything else

thanks
 



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3.73 ls

Its almost done. I just need to get another right side track bar bracket from a v8 explorer or mountaineer. The lower gears put the next shift right where I want it.
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You have driven it?how's it feel?
 






I took it down the street and back. I only got it up to around 40mph. I didnt hear any humming at all. It doesnt have any slop or clunk like worn out rear ends have. Going from a 3.27 to 3.73, I can definitely tell a difference in shifts. The gears are closer, which is just what I needed. The clutches feel very firm also. No clunking or skipping the inside tire during sharp turns. I cant wait to run it through the gears, I think its gonna pull a bit harder.
 






I took it down the street and back. I only got it up to around 40mph. I didnt hear any humming at all. It doesnt have any slop or clunk like worn out rear ends have. Going from a 3.27 to 3.73, I can definitely tell a difference in shifts. The gears are closer, which is just what I needed. The clutches feel very firm also. No clunking or skipping the inside tire during sharp turns. I cant wait to run it through the gears, I think its gonna pull a bit harder.

Right on.should for sure:)
 






Traction/Drag Bars Complete

As far as I know these are only found on v8 Mountaineers and Explorers. Since my rear end has brackets for them I decided that they would be neat to have, especially on a Sport. The right side frame bracket bolted right up without any drilling. The left side was a bit more difficult. Holes needed to be drilled and fuel lines had to be moved to make room for the installation of the back side frame bracket. I still need to do a little work on the e-brake lines. These bars should eliminate a ton of wheel hop and keep the rear end in place better during cornering and hard acceleration. Please ignore my temporary exhaust hangar;)
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Nice!;)
 






throttle body?

will I need a tune after installing a larger throttle body?
 






could be wrong, but I don't think so.
The MAF is what meters the air, and the throttle body just contains the flapper that restricts air flow as required.

Following that thinking, the amount of air passing thru the MAF will not change, except at full throttle. Hopefully at full throttle, you will be passing more air, but the curve of the tune should handle it(Unless your maxing out your MAF's ability to measure the air).

I just made a mess of my post. I doubt you will be going out of your MAFs boundaries, so I doubt you'd need a tune any more than you do now.
 






Alright sounds good. I have a stock tb bored to 63mm and it idles high and hangs between shifts. I cant eactly drive it like this, I assume my butterfly is not tight enough to the housing and air is getting past it causing it to run high. Im in the process of making another butterfly and shaft with tighter tolerances. Hopefully it will fix the high idle.
 






Alright sounds good. I have a stock tb bored to 63mm and it idles high and hangs between shifts. I cant eactly drive it like this, I assume my butterfly is not tight enough to the housing and air is getting past it causing it to run high. Im in the process of making another butterfly and shaft with tighter tolerances. Hopefully it will fix the high idle.

Did you do the half shaft mod wile you was in there?
 






yes I did, but when I cut the slot to elongate it for the larger butterfly I got it a tad to long and air was passing through those gaps also, making it even less sealed. So Ive got another shaft and this time Ill be extra careful to keep everything air tight. I had no idea that these things need to be such a precise fit. I made the original part 65mm and that was really pushing the limits of the stock tb. Second time around Im going for 63mm. The intake is 64mm so there is not much sense is going larger than that. Plus with the butterfly being 63mm Ill get a 1mm taper to the back of the housing which will help speed air velocity. The area before the butterfly will be around 66mm and tapered to the 63mm. Only thing Im concerned about is getting the butterfly perfectly round to seal properly.
 






just keep in mind that all those mods are adding up and a tune would maximize the potential of all them;)
 






02 sensors

Alright well I finally got the tb the way I wanted. Took a lot of tweaking and experimenting to get the idle right. Recently my fuel mileage fell off the cliff. I pulled some codes and they suggest my o2 sensors could be bad. Has anyone had any problems with fouling the o2's after major air moving mods? Also it has a VERY strong smell of un-burned fuel. I want to figure out these problems before I start with ordering the tune.
 






I'd be think your o2 sensors are working, but not coping very well with the exhaust gasses.

Why so rich? That's the million dollar question.
 






So I think Ive figured out why the fuel mileage was so bad. The problem started as soon as the temperature dropped. I notice on my temp gauge that it never reached the correct operating temp. That is because of the colder t-stat I installed. I think the computer was running the warm up fuel tables all the time. yesterday I took off the radiator fan and now in traffic with outside temp of 67deg the needle sat right in the middle of my water temperature gauge. And so far its been using much less gas. I assume the colder t-stat should be used for FI only to compensate for the higher intake temps. Now I just gotta fix my fouled o2 sensor. Im going to install an electric here soon for the summer weather. Ill have some numbers on mpg here shortly
 






I would say its your O2 not tstat.i have always ran a 180 tstat and not had a problem.i sure wouldn't run without a fan.with a bigger cam you are going to smell like you are burning rich,that's just have camed car/trucks smell.how bad is your mileage ?
 






Also do you have a" real" temp gauge or air/fuel gauge?
 






8-9mpg. I never get on it. I coast whenever possible. Basically getting 9mpg while trying to get hyper mileage. Right after startup the ground would be spattered with fuel. Ill continue to try different things. First step is getting the o2 issue solved. But when the fan was installed it ran very cold all the time. Now it runs where it did with the 195 tstat. I appreciate your input
 






8-9mpg. I never get on it. I coast whenever possible. Basically getting 9mpg while trying to get hyper mileage. Right after startup the ground would be spattered with fuel. Ill continue to try different things. First step is getting the o2 issue solved. But when the fan was installed it ran very cold all the time. Now it runs where it did with the 195 tstat. I appreciate your input

O that is bad.yea need to get that O2 fixed.just be careful with out a fan,hate for you to get caught in traffic ir something and overheat .keep us updated.
 



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no I dont have any real gauges. But the smell from the exhaust is nauseous at a stoplight if my windows are open. And i know the analog temp gauge is not great but I figure if it moves the needle that much it is definitely reading a change. What I should do is just re-install the 195 tstat. But your right I should not be trusting the gauge that much. Ill wire up a real temp sensor.
 






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