'99 ohv 4.0 cam build

Im new to the forum, wondering if anyone has any suggestions or advice. Goal is to cam it, head milling,porting and polishing, and a single 2.5inch exhaust with a good 87 octane tune. Motor has 153k on it. All stock car. Parts list so far:

Sealed Power ZH2244 roller lifters, $40 a piece
Comp 49-422-8 camshaft, $300

As you can tell I need some advice on rods, valve springs, rocker arms, and gaskets, or anything else

thanks

 

[Dono]

AR103 at .35 is recommended. They are 1 range colder, copper plugs.
I keep trying other plugs that will last longer, but in reality, its no big deal to change them every year anyway.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

cool thanks on the plugs. I have not worked on it much recently but I'm definitely in the climax of the build. I gotta have it done by late July. I did get the turbo and maf flanges complete though, as well as one of the turbo mounting brackets.

This weeks schedule:
-junkyard run
-collect oil fitting/lines
-assemble turbo with shaft assembly clocked relative to hotside.(The coldside is just clamped so I can change that anytime)
-make oil pump bracket
-make v-band flanges
-research research research
Oh and what are you boosted guys doing about the FPR? I can't seem to find much. I'm thinking just a plain old AFPR custom fitted to the fuel rail with gauge? Or should I wait and see how the AFR and fuel pressure respond to low boost?

Here are the flanges. I didn't weld the maf flange to the tube yet. I'm still waiting on a coupler to come in to test final fitment.

And here is a little of my Borla and just straight piped before I permanently change it.
Without:

It's amazing how quiet it is with no cats or anything. Just a 2.25" straight through BorlaProXS with turn down right on the muffler.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Injector adapters

I hit an unforeseen problem. For some reason I thought my cobra injectors would hook up but it turns out they are the only ones that need an EV6(Uscar) plug. Explorers, Lightnings, Mustangs and like everything else use EV1(Jetronic). I found quite a few sources for the adapters. I figure I'll go with Ford Racing ones from American Muscle. http://www.americanmuscle.com/musta...-kit&channelid=FROOG#customer-reviews-section
There are cheaper ones available but if one of these take a dump during a hard pull it'd surely spell disaster for that cylinder.
I do not see an clearance issues. The coil pack sits close to one but I think the adapter is short enough to clear. If not I can dremel some out of the coil pack mount.
Injectors:

The intake is pretty much done. I just need to cut a gasket for the maf, trim the clamp rods and paint the maf fasteners. Intercooler to TB:

 

[Dono]

Wow, you have done a lot of work already.
You sure your not going to peg that maf past max flow rate when you hit boost?

I have the advantage of being odb2. You have an extra challenge on your hands. No biggie though, you will figure it out.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

That's the 90mm Lightning/Cobra maf yo. I made the intake so the maf is in nearly the same spot. However, the maf plug is quite long so really I could mount it elsewhere but I want the factory look. If I outflow that thing it'll mean I'm doing somethin right haha. The elbow before and straight tube after maf is 4" exhaust tubing for laminar flow to keep the maf happy.
I've got the wastegate set wide open. Also my Bosch bov is reported to only hold back about 12-15 psi adding more safety. And as a final safeguard I got a 1/2" gate valve to put by bov which I will set wide open as well. All the SR/RB and DSM guys claim its really hard to get this turbo under 15psi with the wastegate wide open. I'm hoping the 1/2" valve will dump enough to get me lower. When the turbo spools I have a feeling it's going to make a hell of a racket dumping all that pressure so I'll prob have to make some kind of silencer out of pipe and stainless steel wool to put on the 1/2" dump valve. Not mention my exhaust will consist of the turbo outlet haha. Thing is going to scream bloody murder when boost builds.
And my ex is a '99 so I am obd2 as well
I got all my oil lines and fittings in so hopefully I can start that soon. After the oil stuff is done it'll all be downhill.

 

[jd4242]

That's the 90mm Lightning/Cobra maf yo. I made the intake so the maf is in nearly the same spot. However, the maf plug is quite long so really I could mount it elsewhere but I want the factory look. If I outflow that thing it'll mean I'm doing somethin right haha. The elbow before and straight tube after maf is 4" exhaust tubing for laminar flow to keep the maf happy.
I've got the wastegate set wide open. Also my Bosch bov is reported to only hold back about 12-15 psi adding more safety. And as a final safeguard I got a 1/2" gate valve to put by bov which I will set wide open as well. All the SR/RB and DSM guys claim its really hard to get this turbo under 15psi with the wastegate wide open. I'm hoping the 1/2" valve will dump enough to get me lower. When the turbo spools I have a feeling it's going to make a hell of a racket dumping all that pressure so I'll prob have to make some kind of silencer out of pipe and stainless steel wool to put on the 1/2" dump valve. Not mention my exhaust will consist of the turbo outlet haha. Thing is going to scream bloody murder when boost builds.
And my ex is a '99 so I am obd2 as well
I got all my oil lines and fittings in so hopefully I can start that soon. After the oil stuff is done it'll all be downhill.

Lets hope it doesnt scream bloddy oil!! And it probably will if you hit over 10-12 psi...anything being done as far as head gaskets or head studs or even lower block support? Not to discourage or anything but dont think your be keeping that size of turbo or motor for long setup the way it is(knock on wood)

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Haha I know right. I believe my motor is in excellent shape though. I never abuse it and floor it maybe once a week. I baby it to the core and it consistently scores 18 city mpg with crappy Cinci fuel so that's saying something about engine health right there. From the day I got it it never burned a drop of oil. It leaks yes but does not burn. My goal is like 4-6psi cause I don't have tuning software yet. I understand you have MUCH more FI experience and I will head your advice. I read your threads religiously. When I replace the lower intake gasket I'll do ARP head studs and boost up. Until then the top end remains cammed with ported heads etc. Bottom end will stay factory stock until I have somewhere to pull the motor. Keep the advice coming dude.

 

[jd4242]

Haha I know right. I believe my motor is in excellent shape though. I never abuse it and floor it maybe once a week. I baby it to the core and it consistently scores 18 city mpg with crappy Cinci fuel so that's saying something about engine health right there. From the day I got it it never burned a drop of oil. It leaks yes but does not burn. My goal is like 4-6psi cause I don't have tuning software yet. I understand you have MUCH more FI experience and I will head your advice. I read your threads religiously. When I replace the lower intake gasket I'll do ARP head studs and boost up. Until then the top end remains cammed with ported heads etc. Bottom end will stay factory stock until I have somewhere to pull the motor. Keep the advice coming dude.

I dont know much about turbo and learned just about everything for FI on here but know turbos are crazy when it comes to boost, id just be concerned about head gaskets. But hey you can look at it like I did, stock gaskets and bolts is just a safety net, they will blow first and protect your motor.I learned that and tested that theory. .lol

Cant wait to see it done and learning alot from you and Don, just silently reading because I dont know crap about turbos besides they go sssssswwwoossshhhh lol keep up good work

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

vacuum lines

For the brake booster I assume I can just leave it be correct? There is already a check valve in that line off the intake manifold. I'll just put one in there if I run into problems I guess. Other than that I'll place check valves on everything else that is connected to the upper intake and that one off the TB.
I got one of these already and seems to work very well with lung air.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2QSUW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It should hold just fine. Although its looking like I might have to run new vacuum lines since I can't seem to find valves that match the oem hose connections.
Orrrrrr do I even need to worry about a little positive pressure in these 1/8" lines? at 20psi(wont be that high) I don't think the stuff at the end of the 1/8" will even see a 1/4 lb. And that would only be for a few seconds at a time. But I'm not sure how sensitive that vacuum operated stuff is. oh and btw I'm doing away with pcv stuff. I'll have a breather oil fill cap and for the other valve cover I'm going to run a hose down the trans. It's a real shame how that pcv crap coated my clean new heads in oil. Enough of that nonsense. Any thoughts?

 

[Dono]

I think your ok on the brake booster. Nothing to do there.

Some Vac lines might pop under pressure, and you might have to get creative with them

As far as the pcv setup, I'm going to run all sources of breathing to a catch can, and have a filter on the catch can. Doing this gets any oil mist away from the engine and your just using 1 filter. The nice thing about this is that if you want to try to get creative with some kind of vacuum system for crank case evacuation at a later date, you are almost done already. In my case, I have the pcv breather, and the breather at the oill fill tube to run to the catch can.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

ok cool. Maybe I I'll throw some hose clamps on the vacuum hose ends then. Eventually I'd like to do a catch can like you. It's clearly the best way to go.

I may put a check valve on the fpr. I could do a check valve where the pcv valve is so it still pulls on the crankcase when not under boost. I can blow through both ways of my pcv valve so not sure what the deal with that is. And everything is already coated in oil including the rear end haha automatic rust prevention I call it.

 

[Dono]

I'd let the forum get boost. That just means it opens right up when hosted. That's a good thing. That's also how the 5.0 m90 kits were made.

You can pick up a ebay catch can, or build yourself one out of pvc pipe. There's a few threads about it on the Internet. Try googleing around.

 

[jd4242]

I'd let the forum get boost. That just means it opens right up when hosted. That's a good thing. That's also how the 5.0 m90 kits were made.

.

Huh??

 

[jd4242]

ok cool. Maybe I I'll throw some hose clamps on the vacuum hose ends then. Eventually I'd like to do a catch can like you. It's clearly the best way to go.

I may put a check valve on the fpr. I could do a check valve where the pcv valve is so it still pulls on the crankcase when not under boost. I can blow through both ways of my pcv valve so not sure what the deal with that is. And everything is already coated in oil including the rear end haha automatic rust prevention I call it.

I would put one on the fpr, I did.boost can blow the diaphragm out and cause no pressure or to much pressure.(on a stock fpr, its vacuum reference only) .I also used zip ties on all my vac lines.

I started my truck without my pcv hooked up at first and it blew my dipstick out when I hit boost....idk what caused it but probably bad rings

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

I would put one on the fpr, I did.boost can blow the diaphragm out and cause no pressure or to much pressure.(on a stock fpr, its vacuum reference only) .I also used zip ties on all my vac lines.

Exactly what I was thinking. Ahh zip ties, I have loads of all sizes.

And dang that's nuts it blew out your dipstick. What did your ohv ultimately fail to? I know you guys fight high intake temps with those m90's. I feel like you lose all your gains due to timing retard, not to mention cooking the motor. The m90 was meant for 3.8 LITERS lol. It seems like everyone hits a brick wall with those things.

 

[jd4242]

Exactly what I was thinking. Ahh zip ties, I have loads of all sizes.

And dang that's nuts it blew out your dipstick. What did your ohv ultimately fail to? I know you guys fight high intake temps with those m90's. I feel like you lose all your gains due to timing retard, not to mention cooking the motor. The m90 was meant for 3.8 LITERS lol. It seems like everyone hits a brick wall with those things.

Im intercooled. Mine is CNC ported,polished and is a GM M90, I still have ALOT of potential for mine.. mine failed from running a race tune in the mountains and bouncing off the rev limiter which is set to 6,200 for my motor.I blew the head gasket, I was running stock gaskets and bolts.+10.67:1 and 10 lbs, thats the max for stock head gaskets. add in the thinner air, heat and no mercy with the throttle

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

right yea I know yours was built for it. Just seems like you gotta build it the way you did to really get some power. I bet that sucker really ran well. Gives me confidence running stock head gaskets and bolts. Yet to see what this bottom can really hold though. From what I understand its very similar to the SOHC.

Did this tonight. It's a -6 for my oil drain off the turbo to the Turbowerx pump. I'll paint it tmrw. also installed the oil feed fitting into the turbo to adapt to -4.

The Holset side is a 12x1.5. I just reused the old o-ring.

 

[jd4242]

The sohc has a more stout bottom end tho..and trust me dont judge it off boost levels if your referring to the sohc that handles 16 lbs and m112....10.67:1 and 10 lbs with little restrictions is about all stock ohv gaskets can handle, obviously the math equals little different for a stock motor..probably about 12-14 ish boost

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

I see. I'm still not all to familiar with what makes the SOHC bottom stronger. It uses a girdle integrated pan and...? Different number of crank bolts? Are the crank and rods stronger?

 

[jd4242]

I see. I'm still not all to familiar with what makes the SOHC bottom stronger. It uses a girdle integrated pan and...? Different number of crank bolts? Are the crank and rods stronger?

Just the pan..plus that motr can handle more rpms..remember boost is just a measure of resistance. ..