'99 ohv 4.0 cam build

Im new to the forum, wondering if anyone has any suggestions or advice. Goal is to cam it, head milling,porting and polishing, and a single 2.5inch exhaust with a good 87 octane tune. Motor has 153k on it. All stock car. Parts list so far:

Sealed Power ZH2244 roller lifters, $40 a piece
Comp 49-422-8 camshaft, $300

As you can tell I need some advice on rods, valve springs, rocker arms, and gaskets, or anything else

thanks

 

[Dono]

Sorry about the Crap post. Spell check on a mobile device...I'll articulate what I meant tomorrow. Your 'fpr' is in your gas tank. Streetrod2000 actually had a very technical answer. I'll find it.

 

[jd4242]

Sorry about the Crap post. Spell check on a mobile device...I'll articulate what I meant tomorrow. Your 'fpr' is in your gas tank. Streetrod2000 actually had a very technical answer. I'll find it.

Lol figured that oo thats right his is a returnless system isn't it..yea that I dont know about...

Is it still vacuum controlled then??:scratch: guess ill wait for you to post streetrods quote before I go asking to many questions. Lol

 

[Dono]

Ya, Streetrod posted something about injector pressure rates, and the fuel pressure should actually increase as there is less vacuum. There was a huge calculation in this that I didn't quite understand.

Anyway, he opted to apply vacuum to his fpr unit (Im not even sure if thats the right term, as our fuel regulators are in our gas tanks on our returnless systems).

Also, on the 5.0 M90 supercharger kits the vacuum is kept on the frp thingy on the fuel rail.

By keeping it on, it will open right up under boost, so no harm done. Under vacuum conditions (low load) it restricts. It continues to work exactly as it should, and makes tuning easier.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

ok then. See that's what I was wondering. I've a hard time finding the actual "Fuel Pressure Regulator". The thing on the fuel rail is the fuel pressure dampener from what I understand. I'm hoping to get the FPR situation figured out soon so I can do that while I'm swapping fuel pumps. Streetrod is using a rising rate and other guys are going with normal adjustable.
From a cost standpoint I'd like to do the straight adjustable regulator but I can't seem to find how they physically hooked things up. How can I adjust fuel pressure if the darn thing is in the tank? If for some reason I run on the lean side I'll want the ability to bump up the pressure some.

 

[Dono]

Im going to handle this the same way I did on my 4.0 M90. Larger injectors go in, and the rest is done thru tuning. I send the data logs to James, he analyzes and sends me a modified tune back.

This isn't ideal for a hands on person, but there I a huge learning curve to tuning. James has always been extremely responsive and helpful. It takes a lot of risk out of the equation having someone do the work that actually has a clue what they are doing.

I may but the pro racer package once James has tuned my truck for the turbo just so I can start learning more about tuning.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

I guess I just prefer to do things myself. 4PointSlow says he has a Mallory FPR in his sig, but his is a '98 and SOHC. I wonder if his fuel setup is the same as my '99 OHV. I just can't find anything on this stuff. Ideally I need an external adjustable FPR.

Don, you are also using 60lb injectors right? And I assume those are low impedance? Mine are high impedance same as factory.

EDIT: nvm I found 4PointSlow's thread and his is return style fuel system.

 

[Dono]

Id have to check on the impedance of the injectors. James did spec 60lb injectors, and I did purchase them from him.
Since he is doing my tuning, I wanted to purchase key components directly from him so that he knows exactly what he is dealing with. So, my injectors and slot maf are from James. This way he knows the injector slope rates and how the maf will react to tuning changes.

interestingly enough, James price on the injectors was less that I could find anywhere. He is extremely competitive in his pricing.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

it seems like everyone who tunes with James uses the 60lb'ers. I went with factory stuff hoping it will run a bit better un-tuned. I won't get the SCT software until fall most likely. I need a more vehicle friendly tuning device too. My laptop is huge, heavy and lasts 90 minutes on full charge. But all in all things are coming nicely. Research is the time killer. The turbo kit is almost complete. It's hard when I have to drive to the shop, dismantle the intake and exhaust, build parts then put it all back together to drive home and stuff lol

This helps though. My parts *****...

 

[Dono]

I'm soooo jealous.
very nice.

Im betting without tuning, some areas throttle positions/load will be rich, and other areas will be lean. Also, there will probably be too much timing, causing detonation.

I am very interested to see if you are still close enough to have a running motor though.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Im betting without tuning, some areas throttle positions/load will be rich, and other areas will be lean. Also, there will probably be too much timing, causing detonation.

I can pull pretty much all the timing I want with the strategy tune so that should not be an issue. The only thing I'm concerned with is part throttle operation. Like you said I'll most likely have lean and rich zones. Hopefully nothing too radical though.

Anyway, I did the fuel pump today. Like you guys I went with the TRE 255. Sucks that the plug is different. I was hoping to not have to cut and solder stuff. I also found that the sock on the bottom of the pump is smaller and faces the wrong direction. Instead of letting it be I cut down some of those plastic protrusions on the bottom of the pump so I could turn the pump around directing the sock in the correct direction. It turned out alright I guess. Then I cleaned and painted the top of the tank with some rust inhibiting primer. Drove it home so that's done and works.
I assume that's the FPR there right above the pump.

 

[jd4242]

I can pull pretty much all the timing I want with the strategy tune so that should not be an issue. The only thing I'm concerned with is part throttle operation. Like you said I'll most likely have lean and rich zones. Hopefully nothing too radical though.

Anyway, I did the fuel pump today. Like you guys I went with the TRE 255. Sucks that the plug is different. I was hoping to not have to cut and solder stuff. I also found that the sock on the bottom of the pump is smaller and faces the wrong direction. Instead of letting it be I cut down some of those plastic protrusions on the bottom of the pump so I could turn the pump around directing the sock in the correct direction. It turned out alright I guess. Then I cleaned and painted the top of the tank with some rust inhibiting primer. Drove it home so that's done and works.
I assume that's the FPR there right above the pump.

Wait so do you have a return system?? Looks like it from the pump

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

no on the '99s up it is a return-less system. There is only one tube that runs from the pump assembly to fuel rail. The pump provides pressure to the rail obviously. A regulator is right above the pump and dumps fuel right back into the tank. The FPR dump is that orangish tube that terminates near the top of the pump. The thing on the fuel rail of '99 and newer that resembles an FPR is actually a dampener. But it also has a vacuum line going to it so I think maybe it acts as some kind of regulator as well. I assume it's to dampen pulsations/vibratory waves created by the pump vanes. I have an extra one from the junkyard so maybe I'll cut it up to see what the guts reveal.

 

[jd4242]

K gotcha. Just looked very similar to mine.I never really looked into it so learning now lol

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

yea they do look very similar except yours should have a return line on top of course. I think our fuel rails are even the same. Mine has a spot that appears to be where one could drill and tap for a return style. The whole FPR and damper combo still is kinda confusing to me.

 

[jd4242]

yea they do look very similar except yours should have a return line on top of course. I think our fuel rails are even the same. Mine has a spot that appears to be where one could drill and tap for a return style. The whole FPR and damper combo still is kinda confusing to me.

Lol me too!!! got good people helpn out tho..

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

well turbo is installed and everything works. Today I'm going to install the boost gauge to see where things are. Half throttle and 2500 rpm seem to be where the turbo begins to spool. My big problem is the A/F. It's running mega rich with those 39lb injectors. Cruising is around 10-11:1 and decel only makes it up to 12:1. I'll check around for loose vacuum lines and plugs but pretty sure it's the injectors causing this. I haven't put in the new plugs yet. After I can get it leaned out I will though. I'll get pics up later today.

I'm going to go ahead and get the tuning software so I can drive more confidently. I'm looking at one of the LaSotaRacing software kits. Any suggestions? I'd like the package with training video and tuning guide. $444.
http://www.lasotaracing.com/MOPRP.html

 

[Dono]

You need the SCT device to go with the software. Sorry.
Its expensive.
Email James for a quote. customerservice@hensonperformance.com
Honestly, if his price is higher than what you can find anywhere else, let him know and he will do everything possible to beat that price. After dealing with him on my 4.0 ohv, and my dealings so far on the 5.0, I wouldn't want to go anywhere else.

Yes, the injectors are way to big out of boost for sure. Even if you lower fuel pressure somehow, you will run in to issues under boost with being too lean.

Congratulations on getting the turbo in. That was super fast. Can you get pics of where the turbo is, and how you routed exhaust, cold side, and oil return? Any oil smoking?

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

You need the SCT device to go with the software. Sorry.
Its expensive.
Email James for a quote. customerservice@hensonperformance.com
Honestly, if his price is higher than what you can find anywhere else, let him know and he will do everything possible to beat that price. After dealing with him on my 4.0 ohv, and my dealings so far on the 5.0, I wouldn't want to go anywhere else.

Yes, the injectors are way to big out of boost for sure. Even if you lower fuel pressure somehow, you will run in to issues under boost with being too lean.

Congratulations on getting the turbo in. That was super fast. Can you get pics of where the turbo is, and how you routed exhaust, cold side, and oil return? Any oil smoking?

Yea I've had an SCT for some time now. The software from James is $325. I want the tuning guides from LaSota Racing though. If I get the software from James and the guides from LaSota it will cost $444. If I get everything from LaSota with their package price it will cost $444. However LaSota Racing's website says they will include a tune with purchase. Maybe I'll call James and ask if he would provide a rough tune for me if I bought the software from him.

Only code the setup has thrown is P0113. Just realized my 90mm Cobra MAF does NOT have IAT function, while my '99 Explorer MAF does. I guess the Cobra's probably have a separate IAT sensor downstream supercharger. So hopefully I can find an IAT sensor in the junkyard from an older explorer and splice the wires into my MAF plug. Maybe that will work? I think this problem is causing my up and down idle.

I'll get pics up here soon. Getting ready to install the boost gauge right now. Not sure if the smoke is oil of fuel. After I did the MAF and injectors it smoked due to running rich. I know when I give it gas it blows some smoke but like I said not sure yet if that's oil or unburnt fuel or combo. No smoke at cruise though. I looked down in the filler neck and there is certainly a good stream of oil flowing. If I do find that I'm over oiling the turbo I'll put in my 1/4" fine turn valve. I already have a ball valve in there so I can work on the lines without losing all my oil. I'd have put the fine valve in already but I broke one of my weak aluminum -4 hose ends. Eventually I'll upgrade to stainless. One good hit from a rock or stick and those hose ends will shatter. I'm not too impressed with the Summit Racing aluminum hose ends.

 

[Dono]

Yes, you can splice in a 'stand alone' IAT sensor. That's what I did on my 4.0 OHV. Worked great.

I wonder if the guides are made by Lasotta, or if they are SCT? If everything is from SCT, I can't see why James couldn't do a deal, assuming every bodies costs are the same. Give him a call.

I think I just purchased my iat sensor from James. If I remember, it was not expensive. If you decide to call James, ask him about that also. You might find its just not worth your time or gas to try to find that sensor at the graveyard.

Understood on the smoke thing. Makes perfect sense. Next time you have the cold side apart you will know if there's oil in there.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Pics

Ok I emailed James and provided in detail the whole dealio with mods and iat related stuff.

Ok so my 90mm maf is missing the outside wires for the IAT. They are the solid gray and gray/red. So Don, you just spliced in a "stand alone" Ford sensor. I kinda rather go to the junkyard cause I know there are some older explorer's there with these, plus I'd like to get both plug ends, not just the sensor end. Junkyard is only 10min away on my parts ***** aka bike
the maf plug on my '99....

So on to the many pics...

Here is the Painless fuse block I got for oil pump and gauges. It has two ignition hot points and one always hot. This model is good for 20amps per point. I wired the signal to the radio because my fuel pump fuse is always hot for some reason.

wires are bit out place for now.

Here is what I did for the pcv. I got a brake booster check valve from Autozone. It came with two grommets. I glued one to the other and stuck it in the valve cover after removing the existing pcv valve grommet. The valve opens nicely under vacuum and pressure. I had to cut a little off that big plug mount to clear. Also I put clamps on everything. Good thing I always grab as many I can fit in my pockets at the junkyard.

Injectors with adapters. No clearance issues.

Intake tube support wrapped in electrical tape to keep things soft.

Holset WH1C rebuilt and cleaned/painted.

Oiling. There is the oil block with factory sender and oil feed with check valve that Don recommended. Oiling system works great btw. All 1/4" braided to the turbo, then 3/8" braided to oil pump, then 3/8" rubber to 5/8" filler neck.

The loop is there because I am not 100% on oil pump location yet.

Charge piping to inter-cooler. I wrapped the tube in aluminum tape because the tubing is not abrasion resistant at all. I put some extra gasket material and fiberglass tape on areas where things are in contact. It may appear to hang down some but no piping is below the trans cross member. The turbo is the lowest point at about 1-2" below trans mount. That's as high as I could get the turbo. I could go a tad higher if I removed the wastegate, which I might do. Not sure how one would do this with 4x4.

Turbo mount and y-pipe to turbo.

I had a 45 silicone that I couldnt use so I crammed it on the exhaust side to keep stuff from plastering my oil pump and frame. Going to have to make an exhaust somehow. It's too loud.

I'll get pics of the bov up maybe tmrw. I'm burnt out on it for the time being. Still need to hook up boost gauge, acquire IAT sensor and tuning software. Only code is still P0113 for no IAT input after 10mi of driving. I think getting that sensor in will help driveablilty and fix my high hanging idle.