'99 ohv 4.0 cam build | Page 22 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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'99 ohv 4.0 cam build

Im new to the forum, wondering if anyone has any suggestions or advice. Goal is to cam it, head milling,porting and polishing, and a single 2.5inch exhaust with a good 87 octane tune. Motor has 153k on it. All stock car. Parts list so far:

Sealed Power ZH2244 roller lifters, $40 a piece
Comp 49-422-8 camshaft, $300

As you can tell I need some advice on rods, valve springs, rocker arms, and gaskets, or anything else

thanks
 



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Excellent!
Im still struggling with how to get vacuum applied to the crank case, allow venting of the bottom end when under boost, and not introduce un-metered air back in to the intake.
This is why I said 'uncle' and am just going with a catch can with a breather on top of it. Maybe at some point I'll figure out a way to apply vacuum to the catch can.

Some have had success with a venturi tube in the exhaust. I could run a line to the back (In the exhaust just after the turbo, and use a couple of the venturi tubes, then connect to the catch can. This would create at least some vacuum and I wont be smelling any ugly gasses as they will blow out the exhaust.

Just giving you ideas also. I'd think the tube would be pretty easy to make, then come up with a ball valve in the line further away from the exhaust so it hopefully lasts for a while.

Moroso makes it. Its a part of a kit:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-25900/

You can just buy the nipple for $9:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-97810/
And a check valve that threads onto it:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-97800/

I love that painless circuit boss. Very nice.
 
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on the exhaust, try to use a straight thru muffler. You don't want one that even has the fish scales on it. There's a guy over on turboforums that installed a fish scaled muffler to quiet his setup down and there was a dramatic change in spool rpm (for the worse).

Im going to stick with my magnaflow pre turbo and see how it goes. Man, I still can't believe how big of a turbo you are using.
 






Did you flare or have a lip on where all your joints are for the intake?? (Cant remember the darn technical name) didnt see you mention it and it will surly blow apart under boost.

Also this is kind of a question for you and don, doesnt a filter need to be on the turbo somewhere or something? Again sorry for my ignorance

Im with don..that turbo is HUGGGEEE haha
 






heres a shot of where the filter goes.
Thats the draw back of going underneath like that. Its tough to find a good, safe spot for the filter.

Once my turbo is installed, fabricating some tube to move the filter to a safe spot and building a air box is on the list. I'm sure the same thing is going to happen here.
 

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I like the venturi idea. I don't see why it wouldn't work as long as there is enough air velocity.

For muffler I plan to go with the BorlaXS 3" in and out, offset/center. It's not as nice as the 2.25" BorlaTurboXL I have but it should be plenty quiet with the turbo on there. I have been very happy with Borla quality and sound, and they are straight through of course.

There are a few pipes that do not have "bead rolls". I plan to roll them once I start getting into boost. I really cranked those t-bolt clamps though.

My filter will sit right below the driveshaft off the turbo. I just ordered a cheapo short spectre one for $16 and will cover it with a drawstring bag temporarily. I'm still doing research on what filter I want. I want a dry-flow I know that. I picked up an earlier 2nd gen conical airbox at the junkyard today. Ill modify it to fit over my future good air filter. It'll keep water out and protect the filter from rocks and stuff.
I also got five yes 5 IAT sensors with plugs at the junkyard. Some are from older rangers, explorers, and expeditions. I figure at least one should work. I cleared the code and went for a drive but it still threw the P0113 code. Then it hit me. I went total re-re and wired the damn thing to the plug instead of the wiring harness and now it's raining, so piss on it for now.
The turbo is kinda big, and super heavy. It spools nice though. I think I've only seen 2 psi on the boost gauge but that's because I let off as soon as I see it come up. Only thing I have not done is the plugs. Maybe tmrw I'll get to them.
 
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got the IAT sensor hooked up properly, new Autolite racing plugs, and made a breather oil fill cap. Took it for a drive and it runs great no codes. A/F now sits around 12-14:1 putting around. I pulled 8 degrees out of the 87 octane tune. That's all I can pull with the strategy function on the handheld sct. I'm running 93 octane so hopefully it's safe for a couple psi. I did a few 3/4 throttle pulls and oh man this thing is going to have some power. After the last pull I stopped to check things over and found a dreadful knock/tick under the hood coming from the motor. First thought was **** I already the broke the engine. So I lightly footed drove home, got out and started listening around and found it to be the fan slapping my intake tube. Thank God. I read 4psi on my gauge at 3/4 throttle, 3500rpm with my 3/4" gate valve all the way open and the turbo was barely even starting up. The DSM guys love these Holsets and to them anything under 20psi is "low". Lot's on the forums run mid 30psi all day.
I can't wait to get it tuned. I have a feeling the boost is going to hit real hard once I get the turbo in operating range.
 






Tuning

I got in contact with James about tuning options. He pointed out that my 90mm maf set up for blow through as I have it probably wont be good for much over 5psi, if that even. He said resolution is lost when it's used in that way, which makes perfect sense. not sure why I didn't think of that before. But anyway he said I could always switch to slot maf if need be. He hooked me up with the data logging cable and PRP. Got it all ordered so pretty excited about that. Then I spent a few hours updating my SCT handheld. Apparently the firmware version on it was so old that I had to completely wipe the thing clean and start over with all new drivers and other non-sense, what a pain it was.

James was extremely friendly and seemed more than happy to help me get on my feet with the tuning process.
 






excellent.
I learned it was way better to get help from the guys that are doing the actual tuning since they tend to know what combinations work for a given situation.

Great to hear this is going forward. I hope things go so well for me today.
 






yea aren't you heading to the exhaust shop soon? still on schedule for Thursday?
 






I'm out front now, waiting for them to open. I'm really hoping this is quick and painless. Always that nagging feeling I forgot something, but I can't imagine what.
 






I'm sure all will go great if not better than expected. Hopefully that shop has guys with creative imaginations haha
 






Turbo-back Exhaust

So as mentioned earlier I went with a 3" Borla oval style center/offset. The muffler is a bit shorter than my other one. This one is 14" instead of 18" and also made of a slightly lower grade stainless, but the fit, finish and I assume packing seem to be the same quality as my other. At $70 it was a sweet deal and besides I gotta have a Borla anyway. With it being shorter and 3" it is a bit louder muffler but with the turbo helping muffler noise it's just about as loud as my NA setup. The sound is super super deep and really roars when I smash the gas and get that turbo spinning. There is no raspy noise, drone, or cackle, all of which I can't stand in an exhaust. It sounds smooth and quiet yet powerful. I couldn't be happier with the way it turned out. I did put a turn-down on the muffler though just to dampen and modify the sound a bit. It sounds cooler bouncing off the ground in my experience.

Still waiting on tuning software to arrive. I sent a couple data logs to James anyway though. Hopefully he can direct me some. Btw blew off some turbo piping at 11psi, 4krpm and boost climbing fast!!! Got more t-bolt clamps in so should be good for a little more with those non-rolled pipe sections.

Here's the raw pipe. I was forced to weld straight to the wastegate cover. Originally I cut off the existing flange and welded on a v-band one but there was no way it was fitting in the frame rail that way. This cover is not a stellar piece anyway. As a matter of fact my entire turbo hotside is not very desirable simply due to its yacht anchor weight.

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And painted...

painted_turboview_zpsc8fd6c1c.jpg


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Again I would be VERY VERY careful pushing the ohv up over 10psi on stock gaskets and tty head bolts.you will be blowing gaskets, the ohv is NOT like the sohc.....and I wont say it, but hopefully you got all your pipes beaded so they wont blow again.;)
 






O and lets see or hear some videos! !:popcorn::popcorn:
 






Yes I know lol. When I saw the gauge climb over 5psi I said "oh ****!!!" and it quickly ran up to 11 when a hose popped. I kept my foot to the floor cause I was desperate for a datalog for James. When the hose blew at 90mph I bout shat miself haha. Luckily a dude at the gas station at the exit had a flat-head screwdriver that got me back in business. Yesterday I got my t-bolts in and crunched them down in place of the worm clamps. I'm just going to have to short shift to keep it under 8psi. When the boost climbs it climbs like right now. That turbo is just a mean mother******. I see the pipes not beaded as additional safety. With the t-bolts on they should be good for at least 12psi before popping off.
James contacted me about the tuning software. He doesn't know what's taking SCT so long and neither do they apparently. James has a couple logs and besides I'm not in a hurry anyway. The weather here in Cinci is awesome right now, so the bike I take everywhere. The explorer is drive-able if I need it. The computer is targeting 14.7 A/F and doing a damn good job. It just does not like boost on the stock tune. I remain very very impressed with how the computer is handling the big maf and injectors. Drives nearly the same as before except for WOT.
Tom Morana has heavy duty head gaskets as well as the head studs. I'm looking at about $500 for gaskets and studs from them. While I'm there I might as well install Ls1 spring retainers and do brass valve guides. Orrrrrr just do the studs and fix lower intake manifold gasket from leaking. I'm thinking the ladder. I can do the studs one bolt at a time and not have to replace head gaskets. But then again the intake manifold may not seat correctly without re-bolting down the heads with it. This can either be an 8 hour job or 8 day job depending on how quick my machinist is. Maybe I'll call ahead and see if my man can cut in some brass valve guides in a day or two. I'm thinking around a grand and two weeks downtime if I do the head treatment with heavy duty gaskets. God bless it!! I really wish I'd have done head studs on the first build. I knew this time would come.
 






oh and vids will come as soon as it doesn't go woooooooshpop popsshhh popshpop shhhhh vrooommshhh pop popsh vroom pop pop pop pop ;)
 






Felpro makes a superduty gasket and summit carries the arp studs much cheaper..but even after that I wouldnt push it past 14psi MAX..the pistons and rods just wont take it..

No need for ls1 retainers, stock is fine..I would be more worried about those two piece valves, they have been know to split in half, they dont handle heat.SI makes one piece and then would be the time to do bronze guides. .o and fyi the guides will be one off as they dont makes guides in our sizes and if you didnt do dual 988 springs and have heads machined for them I would do that also.stock springs are right at the max for a 410 cam, comp cams suggest the 988 even for the 410...And add in the extra heat and rpms your want duall springs to prevent valve float..

A good safe tune will help im sure ;) good progress tho
 






Felpro makes a superduty gasket and summit carries the arp studs much cheaper..but even after that I wouldnt push it past 14psi MAX..the pistons and rods just wont take it..

No need for ls1 retainers, stock is fine..I would be more worried about those two piece valves, they have been know to split in half, they dont handle heat.SI makes one piece and then would be the time to do bronze guides. .o and fyi the guides will be one off as they dont makes guides in our sizes and if you didnt do dual 988 springs and have heads machined for them I would do that also.stock springs are right at the max for a 410 cam, comp cams suggest the 988 even for the 410...And add in the extra heat and rpms your want duall springs to prevent valve float..

A good safe tune will help im sure ;) good progress tho

Alright Ill check Summit for the studs. And I think I already have the good Fel-pro gaskets. dude, SI valves, 422 cam and 988 springs have been installed for like 2 years ;) Yea I figured the guides would have to be one-off pieces. Guess that will be the next build.
 






Alright Ill check Summit for the studs. And I think I already have the good Fel-pro gaskets. dude, SI valves, 422 cam and 988 springs have been installed for like 2 years ;) Yea I figured the guides would have to be one-off pieces. Guess that will be the next build.

Oo for some reason I thought you went 410 with stock springs, my fault.lol sooo many builds going on I forget who did what..well woo thats a good thing!!! The good felpro super duty gaskets are BLUE not red and have SD on the end of the part number;) here is a link for the studs:thumbsup:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-au4-600-1lb
 



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Haha nice I actually just found them on Summit thanks to Don for sending me part#s while back. Thank goodness you said something. They are waayyyy cheaper on summit. Halfway affordable now. Now that I recall I think the gaskets I have are orange or red. I shall do the blue ones. Thanks

edit: says they won't ship till 8/23. What the deuce!?!?
 






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