A Arm Suspension swap on 92 EBX frame | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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A Arm Suspension swap on 92 EBX frame

Dyin-tryin

New Member
Joined
August 29, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Cleveland, Tn.
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 XLT


Looking for suspension gurru that has prior knowledge of doing an A arm suspension swap on 92 2WD Eddie Bauer frame. This frame sits under a 66 F100 and is powered by 500 CID Cadillac engine. Please leave constructive help. I've all ready been told that I need to seek counseling.

Would like to have 11" discs for stopping.
 



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WTF???? Post some pics of that bad boy PLEASE!!!!

Oh, and Welcome to Explorer Forum!
 






Wow sounds like an interesting vehicle. Welcome to the site.
 






Why go 11" when you can have 13"?


I am considering doing a Fox Body Mustang Front Suspension on my 1st Gen X, and am in the process of doing IRS from a Thunderbird.

Ryan
 






I helped design/construct an SLA IFS for a sand truck my friend is almost finished with. Once you chop all the old stuff off and spend a few days staring at the components, there's really not much to it (other than plenty of fabrication time) cauz the geometry all kind of fits in place. If you have a tube bender, that makes creating A-arms very easy because all you have to do is make a hoop and weld on a plate for the ball joints (wiith some support of course). You can then use heim joints where regular rubber bushings would go (which bolts the A-arm to the chassis) and you've got one blinging setup that'll allow camber and caster adjustment. Of course I wouldnt drive such a setup everyday because heims do wear out. But if you do decide to drive it everyday, try some Delrin bushings (as opposed to polyurethane/rubber). I have no experience with Delrin on bushings before but I've heard some pretty good things about them.

One thing I should mention is most first time builders often forget about the wheels -- so sometimes when they finally put the wheels on, the find that the wheels interfere with the corner of the upper arm (where the ball joint bolts to). This isn't such a big deal if you're using large wheels with a deep dish (low backspacing).

Oh and coil-overs of course are easier to manage than coils because you dont need to deal with buckets and all that doodads. Instead, all you need to do is weld on some brackets on the lowers and a hoop on the chassis and you're good to go -- piece of cake right? ;)

So just measure the dimensions first (WMS-WMS, spindle position, etc..) and start cutting :D
 






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